D-Way bar size for 1/2" gouge

[John Kananis]

I received a d-way 1/2" spindle gouge and about to make a handle but the what size is .515. I'm concerned that a half inch hole will cause the handle to split. Looks like I need a 33/64" or 13mm bit, neither of which I have. So, will the handle crack/split if I use half inch? If so, do I order a 13mm or 33/64? Assuming someone here has done this. Thanks.

[Robert Hayward]

For a slightly oversized handle hole I like to use epoxy thickened with glass beads. Fills the gap and produces a strong hold. If doing a lot of them of course having the exact size drill bit would be ideal.

[John Kananis]

Hey Robert, thanks for the info. I'd rather get a friction fit in case I want to change the handle later but I like your idea of mixing glass beads with epoxy.

For a slightly oversized handle hole I like to use epoxy thickened with glass beads. Fills the gap and produces a strong hold. If doing a lot of them of course having the exact size drill bit would be ideal.

Edit: I have some scrap stock so I guess I'll start out by testing a half inch bit and reaming it in and out a bunch before trying to fit.

[Bill Howatt]

I get a reasonably close fit and use 5 minute epoxy. I really don't think strength is an issue, a 1/2" diameter tool shaft 4" into the handle gives a bonding surface area of over 6 square inches!
You may find with the usual "slop" of drilling that your 1/2" hole is a bit larger anyway and your reaming trick would be sufficient.

[John Kananis]

4 inches? Oh, glad you caught me. I was going to do 2 inches (with a 7/8" long by 3/4" copper ferrule). Not enough?

I get a reasonably close fit and use 5 minute epoxy. I really don't think strength is an issue, a 1/2" diameter tool shaft 4" into the handle gives a bonding surface area of over 6 square inches!
You may find with the usual "slop" of drilling that your 1/2" hole is a bit larger anyway and your reaming trick would be sufficient.

[Bill Howatt]

I just pulled 4" out of the air after somewhat visualizing but it is really overkill. I think 2 might be a bit light, My Hosaluk handle that you can change tools has a tool in it which allows about 3" deep before it get to the "working" length of the gouge. If you consider the outer edge of the opening as fulcrum, the more that is inside does make a stronger connections regarding forces pushing sideways on the tool and even rotational forces - epoxy shearing force. I really think there is a lot of latitude on the necessary depth if using a good piece of hardwood and a ferrule

[Edward Weber]

4 inches? Oh, glad you caught me. I was going to do 2 inches (with a 7/8" long by 3/4" copper ferrule). Not enough?

2" is all that's required for a tight lasting fit.
Epoxy the blank into the handle, if you want to remove it later, all you need to do is warm it up with a heat gun until the epoxy softens up.

I have done dozens of handles like this over the years without any issues whatsoever.
All the handles in the photo were done the same way.
Hormigo Handles (600 x 400).jpg

I forgot to mention that if the fit of the handle is too tight, you will get a hydraulic push-back from the epoxy. Better to have the hole a "little" bit oversized to allow for epoxy to flow around the shaft and provide proper adhesion.

[Dave Mount]

2" is all that's required for a tight lasting fit.
Epoxy the blank into the handle, if you want to remove it later, all you need to do is warm it up with a heat gun until the epoxy softens up.

I have done dozens of handles like this over the years without any issues whatsoever.
All the handles in the photo were done the same way.
Hormigo Handles (600 x 400).jpg

I forgot to mention that if the fit of the handle is too tight, you will get a hydraulic push-back from the epoxy. Better to have the hole a "little" bit oversized to allow for epoxy to flow around the shaft and provide proper adhesion.

Beautiful handles. I think we are kindred spirits -- I use a different wood for each handle, which is fun, attractive, and lets me know what tool I'm grabbing without having to look at the business end (doesn't help anyone else, but works for me. . .at least until I get too old to remember which is which). There's clearly no need for lathe tools to be pretty, but it doesn't take much extra effort to make them that way, and I find it pleasurable to use tools that look as good as they work. I use brass flare nuts for ferrules -- I glue them on the handle, mount the handle in the lathe, turn the flats off and sand/polish them.

capture..jpgCapture2.jpg

Adding to the comment on the epoxy issue -- agree that a hole too close to the shaft diameter can keep a handle from getting or staying seated fully. My DAMHIKT story came when I glued a handle on and came back the next morning to find that after I left, the tool was pushed nearly all the way back out of the handle by the air I had compressed underneath.

Reaming the hole oversize works. I accomplish the same thing by using a small triangular file to file a groove in the side of the hole that allows trapped air to escape as you seat the shaft.

Nothing to do with the original post, but I had to laugh when I compared a new Thompson 1/2" bowl gouge to my old workhorse. I had to grind a flat on the shaft to allow the vari-grind to register on it as it got shorter. Lot of steel gone, but it has turned hundreds of bowls, so pennies per bowl. I sometimes wonder how many miles of cuts it has made. I guess I'll retire it from being my primary gouge and put a special purpose grind on it for occasional use. But it's a little like losing an old friend.

Capture3.jpg

Best,

Dave

[John Kananis]

Ok great, 2 inches sounds like a plan then - I looked up the Richard Raffan video where he used a likewise length also.

The half inch bit didn't work out so well, too tight. BUT! I found a 7/16 in the drawer that should work great, sharpened it up but it's late now and my back is angry at me so I'll do it tomorrow.

Edward, those handles look pretty awesome. What did you finish them with?

[Edward Weber]

The handles are Macacauba, finished with General Finishes Seal a Cell
https://www.wood-database.com/macacauba/
https://generalfinishes.com/wood-fin...eal-cell-clear

[John Kananis]

Interesting. Can you friction polish this finish on or do you follow the directions and apply off the lathe?

The handles are Macacauba, finished with General Finishes Seal a Cell
https://www.wood-database.com/macacauba/
https://generalfinishes.com/wood-fin...eal-cell-clear

[Edward Weber]

Interesting. Can you friction polish this finish on or do you follow the directions and apply off the lathe?

No, it's not a friction polish.
First coat I just apply on the lathe and let it cure overnight, letting the wood drink up what it can.
Second coat, I will often run the lathe for a few minutes to let the finish self level. I then UN-mount the piece to let it dry vertically, in an effort to avoid curtains in the finish, if I've applied it to heavily.
And yes, seal-a-cell will build like any other oil-based poly/resin finish, though I usually only use two coats.

[Don Stephan]

I haven't found it necessary to use epoxy when installing a tool in a handle.

[Edward Weber]

I haven't found it necessary to use epoxy when installing a tool in a handle.

Hey Don, do you want to share your method with the OP, should he decide to go that route

[John Kananis]

Hey guys, way too busy in the shop today and didn't get a minute on my lathe. I've made handles for a bedan and another 3/8" tool and didn't use epoxy. I think the 7/16 will be tight enough that I won't need - I'll just make sure to file a small v channel along the inside length to allow air to escape. I'll escape from Sunday duties for a while tomorrow and see what comes off the lathe.