Transition to brushing WB

[Kent A Bathurst]

.......... Just 0000 steel wool w/o lube.........

John

Whoooa...steel wool on WB? seems counter-intuitive to me. Would love to do it - got 9/10 of a 1 kg Liberon roll lurking about.

Not arguing with you, Sir, just asking whaaaaa?

[roger wiegand]

Steel wool after it's dry!

[Kent A Bathurst]

Steel wool after it's dry!

I hear that!! Water-based slurry wouldn't help much. I's expect that also implies "full cure".

Plus - I can save my micro-mesh stash until I chew through the 0000. That Liberon roll is like an endless ribbon. It's is so finely made and tightly wound, almost like taking nothing off.

[John TenEyck]

As Roger said, steel wool on a WB finish that's dry and not going to be topcoated again is fine as far as I can tell. It does not have to be fully cured, just dry. You can use micro mesh, etc., but steel wool works better for me on wood where I haven't filled the grain, which is nearly everything that comes out of my shop. The steel wool gets down into the pores better so you get a uniform sheen. Sheet materials can't get down into those pores so you end up with a rubbed-out surface with little shiny spots in the pores, not pretty.

If you are leery about using steel wool, use brass wool.

John

[Kent A Bathurst]

John - If you say it's good, then I'm good. Plus you've cleared up another dilemma/knowledge gap for me. Without filling grain to rub out, I can use steel wool on unfilled surface to rub out and eliminate dust mites and finish defects/bubbles. Only need to fill pre-rubout when I want the dead flat texture for the surface. Which I sometimes do.

Youse guys are all about making my life easier. Ima keep paying attention.

A lot changed in my world with the move to a condo, which forced a switch in finish materials and methods, and overall WW methods and techniques. I feel like I'm playing catchup on a lot of stuff that was missed when I was forced to take time off. I don't mind - for me these days its as much about the process as the product. I get reeeeaaaal bored doing something the Nth time, so education for the sake of education is cool.

[Jim Becker]

One important thing, Kent, with these hardwax oils, etc., is that the workpiece has to be absatively, posolutly clean before you apply them. Rubio even pushes their cleaner, but some of us use mineral spirits or DNA...just blowing it off is not enough. Do the prep for the best results.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Jim - great grooming tip. Thanks. Will do. Lotsa DNA to hand

[Kent A Bathurst]

Explain the RM colors to me. Are they the equivalent of, say, a dye stain.

What's the program here? Are they translucent or opaque? When would you use them?

Thanks again

Kent

[Jim Becker]

I have limited experience with the colors, but, for example, the Morning Mist grey provided a heavy aging look to the ash on this table, as the pigment mostly affected the very open grain but didn't stick to the very hard areas away from those pores. Some folks like to use the whiter tints with white oak for "that look". Rubio has actual dyes/stains in addition to the 2C finishes in colors. So I'll say that there is a wide range of possibilities depending on the product(s) and the specific wood species you are using.

CatShadesClose.jpg CatCoffeTableFinished.jpg

[Kent A Bathurst]

Hip Cat. Definitely you.

I just got back from a 30 minute ramble through their many many levels of products [yikes] and hit on the 2C colors section. They did a very nice job of showing the colors with different species.

[Jim Becker]

Hip Cat. Definitely you.

That's Harry, my daughter's tuxedo cat. He has (literally) a white lightning bolt on his forehead IRL. Hence, his name. Clearly a wizard cat