Cantilevered Desk

[Steven O Smith]

I want to make a computer desk for my daughter. It needs to have a wide clear area underneath. If I don't cantilever the top, the stretcher ends up right where knees live.

There are a couple of things I'm worried about in the joints to make up the ends. First, they are edge grain to end grain (about 7"). Second, there is a lot of stress on this joint.

I can improve the stress situation by a mortise and tenon joint, or make up the thickness of the ends by laminating 2-3 pieces, with the vertical part and horizontal parts laminations overlapping (sort of a giant mortise and tenon). This still leaves the cross grain stress.

The wood will be hard maple.

Please advise,
Steve

[Jamie Buxton]

Many successful pieces of furniture have joints which are like you describe. For instance, look at any wood door. The grain direction for the rails is horizontal, and the grain direction for the stiles is vertical. You can get away with it if the joint isn't too long. I wouldn't be too worried about a 7"-long joint. If you want to be really paranoid, you could put glue on only the middle five inches or so.

Yes, a mortise and tenon joint is a good choice here,

[andy bessette]

You could also install a spline.

[Stan Calow]

In a similar situation I used a pegged/wedged through-tenon. It also helped to make the long blank legs more interesting.

[Steven O Smith]

Yes, I think pegged tenons will be a good plan.

[glenn bradley]

Bridle joints can also be quite strong.

Hallway Linen Cabinet Doors (21).jpg . Hallway Linen Cabinet Doors (22).jpg

Hallway Linen Cabinet Doors (20).jpg . Hallway Linen Cabinet Doors (24).jpg

[Michael Burnside]

Bridle joints are a good idea (per glenn) but honestly several 10MM dominos in each joint would be pretty strong. You could even do exposed through-dowels if you want to over-kill it (per stan). Personally I would use a hidden spline in the back which might be what Andy was mentioning.

That said, I would definitely construct the legs out of 8/12 lumber though. Your drawing appears to show the top and the legs the same size, maybe 3/4 which is a bit thin for my comfort and taste.

[Steven O Smith]

I'm not following the part about the spline in the *back*. I was picturing a spline being similar to a loose tenon. I don't have a Domino.

The legs are planned to be 6/4.

The replies are all appreciated. My primary worry is expansion due to the cross grain.

[Michael Burnside]

For the spline, it's basically just routing a channel in the vertical leg at the back and a similar channel through the end of the upper support (right down the middle of both). Say 2" deep and 1/4" wide. Then you can use the same or contrasting wood and insert a spline, which will act like a very large, long tenon. This would be insanely strong and hidden at the back.

Personally I'd use this as an excuse to get a domino

[Steven O Smith]

That makes great sense Michael. Thanks.

[andy bessette]

You can spline it using just the table saw.

[Michael Burnside]

You can spline it using just the table saw.

Agreed. That’s probably the approach I would take too.

[Steven O Smith]

Sounds reasonable, except I don't like table saws, I use a bandsaw. The spline should be easy to do with a router though.

[andy bessette]

...I don't like table saws...

Oh boy!

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