any advice for setting a LN No. 60-1/2 Rabbet Block Plane?

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks everyone for responding and helping out - there is some good info in the above posts for sure.

And just to be crystal clear on the issue I'm facing, I can't seem to get the iron to cut evenly across it's width (i.e. cut evenly from left-to-right) while having the iron project out from the side of the plane body just right (and not too far), so that is can properly cut into a corner.

As pointed out, I didn't mention that the blade is manufactured to be slightly wider than the width of the block-plane, by 0.005" for this plane (according to LN).

Everything with the plane looks ok as far as I can tell - the iron side is square to the sharpened end, etc.

David G., I think you and I are on the same page - you definitely are feeling my pain!

I'm sure most here have seen this by now, but Chris Schwarz is apparently not a fan of this plane: https://neversponsored.substack.com/...plane-to-avoid

Too bad he didn't have any tips on how to set it up properly!

David, the message that should be read into my post is that this is a specialised plane. It is not for use as a standard block plane, and in this I echo what Chris Schwarz had written. There are those that purchase this plane in the expectation that it would make a decent block plane. Well, it does not! The specialised uses it is put to involved getting into nooks and crannies. Mine lives in a drawer for much of the time. But when it is needed, there are few other planes to substitute (there are others: wide shoulder plane, rabbet/rebate plane without a fence, jack rabbet/rebate plane). When you think of the plane as a rabbet/rebate plane, then set up is easy enough.

Regards from Perth (travelling in New Zealand)

Derek

[Cameron Wood]

It never occurred to me to lay the plane on it's side when adjusting the blade- I just go for an even shaving and the blade centered in the body.

Rafael Herrera makes good points.

[Rafael Herrera]

I'd argue that the only place where the iron needs to be aligned (and sticking out a little) to the side of the plane is the circled area. Trying to make the whole side of the iron parallel to the side of the plane is unnecessary and counterproductive. Unless the edge and the sides of the iron are at precisely 90 degrees, you're not going to get this plane working properly.

Placing the plane on it's side to initially set the iron might help, but not if you force the iron side parallel to the side of the plane. This is a really fiddly plane, no wonder it's a "specialised plane".

IMG_9579.jpg

I was reading the LN marketing copy for this plane. It has nickers, can it really sink a rabbet? It's perplexing, it's a block plane, but it's not really a block plane.

[Cameron Wood]

I use it as a block plane, with the ability to clean up a rabbet.

[Rob Luter]

I'd argue that the only place where the iron needs to be aligned (and sticking out a little) to the side of the plane is the circled area. Trying to make the whole side of the iron parallel to the side of the plane is unnecessary and counterproductive. Unless the edge and the sides of the iron are at precisely 90 degrees, you're not going to get this plane working properly.

Placing the plane on it's side to initially set the iron might help, but not if you force the iron side parallel to the side of the plane. This is a really fiddly plane, no wonder it's a "specialised plane".

IMG_9579.jpg

I was reading the LN marketing copy for this plane. It has nickers, can it really sink a rabbet? It's perplexing, it's a block plane, but it's not really a block plane.

I guess I'll chime in. This plane is well suited to trimming rabbets and working into sidewall areas.

The iron is intended to be flush with the side of the plane that is trimming the rabbet or working against the sidewall. The only time you want the blade extending on the working side of a rabbet plane is when the width of the rabbit is established using a fence. This plane has no fence.