12" Benchtop Jointer

[Richard Daugird]

I'd love a floor-standing model, but I need something that can be stored away when not in use. Can I do decent work on one of these if I have a REAL GOOD outfeed? Asking this only of those with first hand experience.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Are you talking about something like the Grizzly G0959?

https://www.grizzly.com/products/gri...SABEgL8jPD_BwE

Screen Shot 2024-04-03 at 6.14.28 PM.jpeg

[Richard Coers]

I have no idea how a bench top jointer can handle the weight of a long 12" wide board. If it can handle the weight, short tables will also be an issue. An adjustable shimmed planer sled will do a much better job of jointing in a thickness planer.

[Evan Codsen]

I'm still very much a beginner, so take this with a grain of salt. If someone more experienced says I'm wrong, listen to them. That said, I recently went through a version of this, and perhaps my perspective will be helpful.

When we talk about limitations of desktop jointers, we're often referring to the limitations on board length cause by their shorter tables. And sure, short or flimsy tables can limit how long of boards it can handle. So...how long of boards do you need?

The real eureka moment for me was when I realized that I don't run a lumber yard. I don't need to mill all my stock to perfect long planks first. Instead, I can cut to rough lengths, then get everything flat and square afterwards. It's easier to mill shorter stock to flatness. Benchtop machines handle those lengths fine, at least for what I've needed. Also, there's less curve to remove on a short board, so less waste and less time milling. As an added bonus, those cuts can relieve internal stresses and expose further warping. Better that happens before jointing and planing than after. Now that I've started working this way, I don't think I'd try and mill uncut, long boards flat as a first step even if I had a massive jointer. Saws are great for flattening.

Of course, there's a lot of "ifs" mixed in there. Type of wood, final length and width, degree of warp, depth of cut, the specific machine, etc. could all be factors in how well it works. For that matter, how well I'm feeling, my general mood, and my own skill (or lack thereof) probably play just as big a role, if not bigger. Regardless, if your project actually needs 12-foot long boards of some hard, dense exotic wood, I can't speak to that. I can certainly see wanting a bigger machine or reinforced infeed/outfeed tables for that. For what I consider "normal" stuff, eh, works fine.

[Stan Calow]

Good response Evan. The best tool is the one that works for you, for what you do, at a fair price. I have a basic 6" bench top jointer and it has worked fine for me for years, as all my workpieces have been short. If I was a pro, bigger, heavier, and more expensive would make sense.

[Brian Runau]

I have a Grizzly G0586, 8" X 72". I still limit how long a board I mill on this. For example side rail boards for beds I mill on my planer with a planer sled. IMO, buy a good planer, make a good sled rather than this jointer. Brian

[Richard Daugird]

Funny co-incidence, I got an email this morning regarding a comment I made on a video for a retrofitted fence for a Cutech jointer. I think I will try this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNpK...8r2A1nLNFXeF7x

[mike stenson]

The real eureka moment for me was when I realized that I don't run a lumber yard. I don't need to mill all my stock to perfect long planks first. Instead, I can cut to rough lengths, then get everything flat and square afterwards.

This. The fastest way to flatten a board is with a saw.

[Curt Harms]

When we talk about limitations of desktop jointers, we're often referring to the limitations on board length cause by their shorter tables. And sure, short or flimsy tables can limit how long of boards it can handle. So...how long of boards do you need?

Re board length a rule of thumb I've seen says board length= total jointer bed times 1.5. I have done twice the jointer beds but wouldn't want to go longer without infeed/outfeed support. I had an AMT (imported cheapy) benchtop but not for long; I was off to York PA. for a Bridgewood 6" jointer. The AMT was just too flimsy with a screaming universal motor. The newer heavier benchtops like the Grizzly might be fine, I've never seen one 'in the flesh' nor used one. You're right about cutting to rough length before flattening. When I first got my current Jet JJP-12 I tried flattening an 8' poplar board. I got it flat but by the time it was flat the center was 3/4" thick, the ends were 3/8" thick. It's good to experiment on cheap stock.

[Steve Demuth]

Fascinating comment - not for its content, which is obviously true - but for what it says about the way people learn woodworking, and how we help beginners learn it. I suspect it's pretty obvious to anyone who has done one-off projects in a shop for very long that cutting materials to near length and width before flattening and squaring will get you the best and most efficient use of your tools, and your materials. Probably so obvious, we don't realize it's not obvious to a beginner, and don't emphasize it.

That said, there is a bunch of other learnings that goes with that. Crosscutting crooked lumber to get straighter pieces is straightforward, but there are important things to know: don't do it on a table saw, and if you're doing it with power tools at all, be aware that the twist and wind and cup in those boards is indicative of internal stresses - make sure your material is stably supported (doesn't wobble in any direction) and immobilized.

If you're ripping windy lumber to get to width before jointing as well, again, if the board isn't already jointed, don't do it on a table saw. Bandsaw is great for this, as long as the board is properly supported. If you're doing it with a tracksaw, make sure you can clamp the track flat and adequately supported.

[mike stenson]

Yea, this is why I generally break down lumber with a handsaw or a jigsaw.

[Richard Daugird]

The more I learn, the more I realize I don't know...

[Evan Codsen]

Fascinating comment - not for its content, which is obviously true - but for what it says about the way people learn woodworking, and how we help beginners learn it. I suspect it's pretty obvious to anyone who has done one-off projects in a shop for very long that cutting materials to near length and width before flattening and squaring will get you the best and most efficient use of your tools, and your materials. Probably so obvious, we don't realize it's not obvious to a beginner, and don't emphasize it.

Oh, yes, so much this! I took an interest in woodworking maybe five or six years ago. Researching into what it takes, I began learning about jointing and planing and came across all the Internet talk of how you really need a big long jointer and such. I priced it out and tried to figure out how I'd fit everything I'd need in my space, and lug it all down a staircase to get it there, and install the inevitable 220V hookups, and so on. Eventually I decided no, this hobby ain't for me. I abandoned the idea and only came back to it kinda-sorta by accident relatively recently. Even when I did, I spent far too long thinking I needed to find good flat S4S or S3S lumber, and that I could only do so much about stock that wasn't perfect.

What a waste.

Again, newbie's view here, but...Benchtop jointers are great! Not for everything, of course, but for plenty of common projects. More beginners need to hear about 'em, and how to think about milling in general.