Veneer substrate and glue question

[Rob Nolan]

Hi,

This is my first post (New Thread Post)!

For my next project I would like to cut 3/32 veneers off a piece of zebra wood with my bandsaw for a box top. My question is what is the best substrate to use under the veneer? 1/4" MDF or plywood? Also what is the best type of glue to use? I was going to use extended yellow glue to give me a little time.

Of course pictures will be posted when I'm done.

Thanks!

[Gary McKown]

If it were to be a work of art I would also use the same veneer on the back and use 3 mm Baltic Birch for the substrate. If more utilitarian, then any hardwood for the secondary veneer would do, and 1/8" hardboard could work for the substrate.

In other words, you need to apply comparable veneers to both sides to minimize warpage with temp/humidity changes. Yellow glue should be fine.

[Bruce Stangeby]

I agree that you need to use a substraight on the back side, I have used matching vaneer or other species, unless it will be seen, it dosn't make much difference.
I disagree about the glue however. With yellow glue there is a good chance that the glue will bleed through and leave a mess on the vaneer. I would recomend that you use cold press glue. It has ended my bleed through problems.

[Steve Wargo]

If you're using veneer that is 3/32" thick then you should have little problems with bleed through. If you experience problems with bleed through then you may want to use an adhesive that will accept stain/oil. Hide glue works wonders for veneering.

[Zahid Naqvi]

Hide glue is highly recommended for veneer, specially now that you can buy it in liquid ready to use form. I have also used epoxy (the long set kind) in one of my projects and it worked great. MDF is the best substrate due to its super flat surface.

[Steve Clardy]

Welcome to the Creek!!

[Steve Cox]

You will get lots of different opinions on veneering. First to your question of substrate. Given that you will be using 3/32" veneer, just about any sheet good will work. I would probably use ply for its' strength here. If you are using commercial veneer which is much thinner, telegraphing is a problem. Telegraphing is where the grain of the substrate (if any) shows through the veneer. If I'm using commercial veneer I like MDF for a base. As for glue, the first question is: "What process are you using to veneer?"
I have a heated shop and veneer with a vacuum bag. In those conditions I use plastic resin glue (Weldwood). It is thin, doesn't bleed through much, and has no creep which is a problem with PVA. On the downside the shop needs to be near 70 degrees when used. Unibond is another great glue for veneering but it is expensive. If you are going to hammer veneer then hot hide glue is the best. Some of the new liquid hide glues might work well but I have no experience. In all cases, make sure that you glue up both sides at eh same time to prevent any problems with warping.

[Philip Glover]

I chime in here with Unibond 800.
It is a modified urea resin formaldehyde two part adhesive.
In my experience it works the best.

PCG

[Rob Nolan]

Thank you all for your input.

My shop is in the basement and at this time of the year it's about 55 degrees. I planned on making a wood sandwich with 1" MDF calls for the bread (lined with plastic or packing tape to keep any glue from sticking to the MDF), clamping the MDF or ply between two veneers. If I used the plastic resin glue I could always bring the wood sandwich up into the main house to stay warm.

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Rob,

I use hide glue for most small boxes. Epoxy for everything else, except when I use plastic resin glues.

I use epoxy the most. Veneer both sides. I too use 3 mm BB for many panels in small work. For large work with shop sawn veneers I typically make my own cross-banded cores.

Take care, Mike

[Arthur Wood]

Me: Also a new creeker.

Can anyone recommend a website/resource for all the tips/tricks and how to's of veneering? I've got a book on order at Amazon, but it hasn't arrived yet.

Also, I was going to veneer some drawerfronts for a tool cabinet I'm making - do you think it necessary that I veneer the *back* of the drawfront - not only will it not be seen, it will be sandwiched between the false drawerfront and the dawer itself.