Random Orbital Sanders (again)

[Jim Becker]

David, if you do a ton of narrow component sanding, then yes, the smaller 125mm/5" format is going to be easier to keep things flat. But in general, the current generation 150/5 (or similar from Mirka, etc) is, in my opinion (cheap for sure), one of the best overall sanders one can own. Until I recently bought an RO90 for some specialized reasons, I've been using the 150mm/6" format since the mid 2000s and have never had any real issue during those times when I was sanding narrower things. I just am careful. My original sander is the 150/3...the taller design from "back in the day". I picked up a 150/5 in the current, lower format and I love it. There isn't enough difference between the 3mm orbit and the 5mm orbit to matter to me, at least for the work I do.

I do not suggest you buy a Rotex to use as a general sander. These are two-handed tools, IMHO, even in the current slightly more balanced format, so doing a lot of general sanding is going to be more tedious with them. Buy a Rotex for the aggressive, rotary action if you need that and for that. Buy a ROS for general sanding. And this comment is not brand specific, in a sense, because other brand options for dual mode can be equally discomforting because it takes more "stuff" and space to do the dual function and that raises the weight as well as the handling issues. That's my opinion, of course, and again, it may not represent yours or other folks'.

[Michael Burnside]

I'm weird, I actually enjoy the sanding process and it is not uncommon for me to use 2 or 3 different sanders on a given project. I own these Festool sanders: REQ 125 (edge detail only), ETS EC 150/3 (finish sander), ETS EC 150/5, Rotex RO 150 and Rotex RO 90. I only use Festool paper. I tried the other stuff...I think it's crap by comparison, but that's just my opinion. Like I said, I'm serious about sanding and I'm VERY picky.

By far the first one I would purchase that will do most things for most people is the ETS EC 150/5. It's a little less forgivng on soft woods if you rush through the grits, but otherwise if you take your time, it's a wonderful sander, coupled with a Festool dust extractor. Also get the hard pad and use it most of the time...you'll thank me later. The Rotex RO 150 is a phenomenal sander and can take rough panels and clean them up amazingly fast. That would be my second purchase, but not my first. It is a 2 handed sander IMHO. The /3 or REQ 125 are great but not necessary, nor is the RO 90, but all have a purpose in my sanding regimen from time to time. I recognize you can get away with one or two sanders, so that's why I listed the order of priority.

A 125 would not be on my list of first sanders.

[Aaron Inami]

The $249 ETS sander is an excellent finish sander (for final sanding berfore applying finish). However, it takes forever for heavier stuff like removing material and sanding glue joints. It's just not aggressive enough for this type of stuff.

The more expensive $475 ETS-EC sanders are excellent as well, but you need to be aware that they require a vacuum attachment for dust extraction (you cannot use these without a vacuum like the ETS sander above). The 150/5 is excellent for material removal and sanding glue joints, etc, but the 5mm orbit is too large for finishing. You can use an extra-hard sanding pad on the 150/5 that makes it act more like a flattener/planer. The ETS 125 finishing sander only has a soft pad which sands over and into dips/mounds.

If you are going to only get one sander, I would normally advise the 125/3 or 150/3. The 3mm is basically a compromise between finishing / removal.

[Dave Sabo]

If you’re going to get the EC sander - get the 125/3 version. You can purchase a 150mm pad from festool or another source and get two sanders.

It is also possible to run the EC sanders without a vacuum, you just have to tweak the settings on the sander. It’s strongly discouraged if I recall correctly though.

[STUART Robertson]

Both the festool ETS EC and mirka have a lower profile which should help with any tendency to roll,and are nicer to use than the taller types.The festool at least has pads of different hardness,not sure about mirka,but they probably do too.Note the different type of switching, I think the Deros has the paddle type which alway needs to be held to engage,this could become tiring and awkward at times.
If you're doing a lot of sanding go for comfort AND performance.
If you're doing a lot of sanding get an extractor to go with the sander,use on the lowest setting,higher suction tends to pull the pad onto the material and add sanding marks.The festool ones have a low centre of gravity which helps with stability.
The Rotex are way overkill for the work you've described and on their fine setting they are not really a finish sander.
If you're only sanding infrequently it maybe doesn't matter too much
about the quality of sander and wear a mask.
Lots of good suggestions in this thread.

[STUART Robertson]

By the way,the festool ETS EC is between $1280 and $1480 here...
Not U.S.

[George Yetka]

I started with the ets ec 125 and switched my main sander to the Mirka. The paddle requires very little effort to hold. It has a power button then all goes through the paddle. Once its on you cant lay it upside down on the bench. While using it there is not really any difference in the feel between the ets ec's and the deros.

Hard pad is definitely a good recommendation for any of the sanders, especially for cabinets.

As far as comfort in sanding you wont do better than an EC , deros, or possibly the 3m(havent tried this one)

[Jimmy Harris]

Thanks for all the comments. I'm leaning toward the ETS EC 1XX/3 EQ-Plus (125 or 150). I understand the speed advantage of the larger disc, and the (relatively) small cost difference. So my real concern is whether the larger disc (or my handling) will worsen my concern about any electrical sanding tool: Flat things must not become round things. On a 1.5" cabinet door frame or a 2.5" rail/stile joint, will my handling of a 6" disc be as good as with a 5" one? I asked that of Festool's Customer Service folks (they suggested the 125).

The weights for the two are similar (1.5 and 1.6 kg) but are the housing size or center-of-gravity a factor?.
About 3 EQ vs. 5 EQ (size of swirl) the most aggressive thing I do is to level the rail-stile joint (sometimes off by 1/16"). Once that's done, I sand to 150 or 180, but always switch to card scraper before stain or sealer. Am I fair in thinking that the 5 EQ (or Rotex) is more aggressive than my need?

Honestly, if flatness where my main concern, I'd rather use a hand plane. Probably a jointer plane if you can. They do a better job at flattening and keeping things flat than handheld sanders. Then, if you needed to, you could sand the last bit off by hand or with whatever sander of your choice, since after the plane you wouldn't need but the finest grit, if you even needed to sand at all. So flatness wouldn't be an issue.

[STUART Robertson]

There's no switch lock with the Deros is there?

[George Yetka]

There's no switch lock with the Deros is there?

Yes there is a power button.Once you push the power button it can remain on indefinitely. the paddle will be your power. but you can always turn it back off.

[Ray Selinger]

When I use my RO, I wear anti-vibration gloves. No sense in getting white finger., that's what loggers call it from the chainsaws.