Table saw bogging down…help

[Tim II Cooper]

Hi All,
So I have started up my table saw after not using for a few years. It’s the first time using it since moving to a new place.
im trying to rip a 2x4 but the saw is bogging down.
New blade (tried two different blades).
Fence is parallel to blade.
Removed the belts and the motor and blade spin freely.
Bogs down with or without the kerf.
Bogs down even with a short (1 foot) length of 2x4.
Bogs down even when just cutting a sliver off.
No extension cord, plugged directly to the outlet.
Thinner wood ( 3/4 inch) cuts pretty good.
After many cuts the motor spindle and blade spindle get pretty warm but not too hot to touch.
Belts aren’t slipping.

It’s a King Canada KC-10CCX. Motor is 2 HP, 115/230V, single phase.

The owners manual says it came wired for 220v/30amp. But, the plug still has the regular prongs rather than the two sideways prongs. Also but, I don’t remember using a special outlet for it at my prior home. The saw isn’t new to me but I’ve never changed the wiring or the plug. I’ve got it plugged into a regular outlet now.

I’ve attached the wiring diagram from the owners manual.

Any suggestions?

[Michael Zerance]

Seems like the saw is wired 230v and you've got it plugged into a 120v receptacle. The first step would be to open up the motor to verify for which voltage it is actually wired. There should be a schematic on the motor cover. Also, it couldn't hurt to check the voltage at the receptacle with a multimeter, if you have one.

[Bill Dufour]

If you let go of the wood does it come back towards you? How does it crosscut. You claim the belts are not slipping? how hot are they.
Bill D

[Tim II Cooper]

Seems like the saw is wired 230v and you've got it plugged into a 120v receptacle. The first step would be to open up the motor to verify for which voltage it is actually wired. There should be a schematic on the motor cover. Also, it couldn't hurt to check the voltage at the receptacle with a multimeter, if you have one.

Thanks for your input.
Soooo….it does look like it is wired for 220!
This is weird for two reasons. The first is that a few years back I did a lot of ripping of 2 inch material for cabin windows that I was making. I don’t remember any issues from back then. The other reason is that the plug is still the 110 volt style. I did get this second hand so maybe the po messed with it.

The outlet measures 110.

I’ll head back out and rewire it to see if there is a difference.

[Tim II Cooper]

If you let go of the wood does it come back towards you? How does it crosscut. You claim the belts are not slipping? how hot are they.
Bill D

Thanks Bill.
I think the problem is the wiring mentioned in the prior post. I’ll do some work today to confirm.

But, to cover your questions, the wood doesn’t kick back but does sort of jiggle back. I cross cut a 2x10 and it bogged down a little but not as bad as ripping. I’d say the belts are warm but not hot.

[Bill Dufour]

If it has similar issues on crosscuts it is not just a bad fence like I was hoping. I agree with motor issues.
Bill D

[Richard Coers]

Could be the centrifugal start switch is not kicking off. Does the motor get hot quickly?

[Tim II Cooper]

Thanks for your input.
Soooo….it does look like it is wired for 220!
This is weird for two reasons. The first is that a few years back I did a lot of ripping of 2 inch material for cabin windows that I was making. I don’t remember any issues from back then. The other reason is that the plug is still the 110 volt style. I did get this second hand so maybe the po messed with it.

The outlet measures 110.

I’ll head back out and rewire it to see if there is a difference.

Yup, it was the wiring. It’s weird because like I mentioned, I did a lot of ripping a few years back (made 5 5’x5’ windows by ripping lumber down to 2x2) and don’t remember any problems. (A few years back was likely more like 15, so maybe my memory isn’t too good!!!)

Anyhow, cuts like butter now!
Thanks!

[Tom Bender]

So maybe that outlet in your old place was miswired for 220 volts.