AC electrical puzzlement

[Jim Koepke]

I have twice traced dead circuits to the refer receptacle- vibration and/or cycling had work hardened the wire at the terminal causing it to break.

Wires breaking at termination can also be caused by an inexperience contractor nicking the wire when they strip it with their wire cutters.

It seems there is a lot of controversy concerning backstab receptacles. From what others have mentioned on other sites there can be a lot of failures with them being indicated.

My experience with them is almost nil. Using the screws to secure the wires has always been my choice. After all, the wire stabbed into the back is held in place be spring action. When the wire is shoved into the box, stresses are placed on the wire through bending. Over time there will be heat in the outlet to cause weakening of the spring action. If multiple outlets are daisy chained via the backstabbing, there are too many chances for failure.

That may be why they have fallen out of favor with those in the electrical professions.

I like to use 20 amp receptacles even though code allows 15 amp.

As long as the wiring can support a 20 amp load. A lot of wiring is done with 14 gauge wire that wouldn't be too good with a 20 amp load.

jtk

[Tom M King]

I’ve never used no.14 wire for any receptacle circuit. Don’t remember ever seeing a 15 amp. Receptacle circuit.

[Jim Koepke]

I’ve never used no.14 wire for any receptacle circuit. Don’t remember ever seeing a 15 amp. Receptacle circuit.

It may be something more common in prefab or factory homes. Likely not many of those worth a restoration project.

jtk

[Tom M King]

Even the 1974 house that I bought for a rental, which was considered a tear-down, has 12 ga. wire in the receptacle circuits. That's the one I had trouble with those back stab devices in.

Also, there is some variation in receptacles sold as 20 amp. Some just look like 15 amp devices with the extra slots on the face. Others, maybe sold as HD or industrial are built much heavier. It's the heavier ones I buy. I think the box stores sell both.

[Tom M King]

I've used these needle nose pliers dedicated to one job since the 1970's. I ground the groove so that a twist of the wrist forms a perfect half loop for side wiring. I think every new house I ever built used these. I just went out to the truck and took this picture. The electrical toolbox with drawers sits on the seat behind the drivers seat. These still get used sometimes. I also finally learned to turn the iphone sideways for taking upright pictures for here.

[Cameron Wood]

I have some of those!
IMG_4945.jpeg

[Tom M King]

Did you grind that or did it test a hot wire for you?

[Cameron Wood]

Did you grind that or did it test a hot wire for you?

One at least half a dozen mishaps over the years- mostly strippers. Still, that's only one every 7 years or so, on average.

[Tom M King]

I have one pair of lineman's pliers that are also good strippers for 10 ga.

[Jim Koepke]

These are my favorite pliers for making a hook to go around a screw or post.

Jeweler's Pliers - Round Nose Plyers.jpg

The smaller pair was given to me by my dad. He had them since before I was born.

jtk

[Rollie Meyers]

Glad you found it. I like to use 20 amp receptacles even though code allows 15 amp. Most slightly heavier duty 20 amp receptacles these days have a good connection system that allows straight stripped wires coming into the back. Rather than just relying on a small spring piece of sheet metal to provide the contact, they have a heavier plate that pulls up against the stripped wire end with a machine screw.

I have been known to use an aircraft rivet bucking bar and a hammer to flatten the stripped end of the wire to give it a little more surface area of contact inside that clamp plate.

The innards of a 15A & 20A receptacle of the same grade device is identical, only difference is the face of the device, unless a 20A device is needed and then it would require a dedicated circuit it's wasting money.

[Tom M King]

I know the HD/Industrial ones cost more, but I just like them better and that's not the kind of place I care about saving a few bucks. I expect they're also available in 15 anp, but even though I'd rather have 15 amp faces on the HD devices, I've never seen them anywhere in stock even if they are available. I'm satisfied with the HD/Industrial 20 amp ones. I don't expect anyone to plug in an air conditioner to one of those outlets. I'm only doing my own work.

[Ole Anderson]

The innards of a 15A & 20A receptacle of the same grade device is identical, only difference is the face of the device, unless a 20A device is needed and then it would require a dedicated circuit it's wasting money.

Spec grade receptacles aren't that expensive. Here is a common brand with back (not stab) and side wiring for $2.41, the 20 amp version is a buck more. Yea, unless you are using a true 20 amp cord, the 15 amp ones are good to go on 20 amp circuits per code. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AXLQKO...ed_d_asin&th=1

[Jim Becker]

The price difference between 15a and 20a receptacles is minimal in the larger scope of things (I buy the better grade, not the cheap ones) and I prefer that 20 amp circuits have the 20 amp receptacles because it's a visual indicator that the circuit is the higher capacity which is nice in the situations where one might need to use a 20 amp circuit. Now in the house, that would primarily be the kitchen of course. But functionally, it's true that either one is going to "work".