In-floor hardware - any ideas?

[Steve Mueller]

I'm working with a church remodel. They want to have tall, slim candle stands - probably 5' tall, around 3" in diameter.

They'd like them to be movable with a sleeve in the floor and in the candle that are joined by a removable metal peg - 1" in diameter would be ideal.

I'm looking for a solution for the sleeve itself to embed in the floor and the candle stand. It would need to look finished for when the candles aren't in place. (e.g. not just an embedded pipe).

I can find solutions for big things (2 3/8 inch and up) but am struggling to find something smaller.

Thanks for any ideas you might have.

Steve

[Michael Burnside]

First thought was an insert that could cover any type of sleeve you used. Something like this:

https://www.grainger.com/product/HUB...HKS&position=1

[Richard Coers]

Plumbing flanges

[Tom M King]

If there is a machinist in the congregation, get him to turn something out of brass for the mating parts. The part into the floor needs to fit in a Forstner bit hole.

[Steve Mueller]

Thanks for the good ideas. The crown plug should work well.
I appreciate you!

[Michael Schuch]

What is the floor made out of?

1/2" galvanized pipe 4" long epoxied into a cement floor with turned brass cap for when the stand is not in use should hold a whole lot of candle stand. A rotary hammer should make very quick work out of a 7/8" hole in a cement floor for the 1/2" galvi pipe. Sink the pipe 1/2" below the surface then use 1" brass to turn the caps. I have turned brass knobs on a wood lathe before when a metal lathe was not available.

1/2" galvanized pipe outside diameter = .804"

Are the candle stands preexisting? Can they be altered by adding a 1/2" rod to the bottom of them?

[Lee Schierer]

I have designed a removable railing for our church. The steel work is done and the next step is to bore the 2-1/4" holes into the floor and make the wood pieces. The next step is to bore holes into the concrete floor to set in these 1-1/2" sockets.

Socket.jpg
The completed railing will look like this. The posts are 1" square steel tubing that will slide down into the sockets.
Option One.jpg
When the railings are removed there are cast metal caps from the original communion railings that will be used to cover the holes.

I haven't determined what will be used to anchor the sockets into the floor yet. Suggestions welcomed.

[Tom M King]

When I cast window sills in place with concrete, I coat them with West Systems after the concrete is well cured. Then paint that with SW best at the time. Haven’t had the paint fail on one yet.