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Thread: Blade lubricant for resawing with bandsaw.

  1. #1

    Blade lubricant for resawing with bandsaw.

    I use Bostik Blade coat on my circular saws and moulding heads.
    And Glide coat on tool beds.
    Was using my newly functional bandsaw today ripping just under 14" so tried a bit of blade coat on it.
    Made a very noticeable difference.
    What do others use aside from nothing?

  2. #2
    I use paraffin wax for pretty much everything. Paraffin is cheap, versatile, easy to find (I get it at the grocery store) and it works. Plus it's easy to apply and doesn't mess with wood finishes.

  3. #3
    Seems I mistakenly presumed Borson precision resaw services used some kind of lubricant,
    but at a second look, it seems an "air mist" system might or might not have anything added?

    Perhaps this only works with a lower blade speed...hrmm?
    One may note the larger pulley optimized for this (presumably using a 4 pole motor, and perhaps 3 phase with VFD at that)
    It's the first I've encountered someone wanting a slower cutting saw, and not came across anything since!
    Screenshot-2024-5-2 The Saw.jpg
    http://www.borsonresaw.com/pages/saw.html
    Tom
    Last edited by Tom Trees; 05-02-2024 at 9:59 AM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Technically, the only thing that should be touching the wood is the cutting edge. How does that need lubricant? Doesn't that disappear in the few inch of wood or so? Sawmills can use something to keep the wet wood from sticking to the warm blade, but kiln dried wood?

  5. #5
    https://www.olsonsaw.net/shop/coping...bricant-stick/
    8″ long x 1″ diameter. Prolongs blade life and produces smoother and quicker cuts. Specially compounded to keep metal, plastic, and wood cutting blades from clogging with wood chips or pitch. Use on all power and hand held cutting tools including band, scroll, circular, hack and jewelers saw blades

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    I worked for several years for a lumber company that did a lot of resawing for thin lumber sales. We ran a mix of water and Charley's soap(to prevent rust).
    The drip served two purposes, one cool the blade for longer blade life. Very important for exotic woods and hardwoods. Second to keep any resin buildup from occurring.
    There was never enough residual water left to cause any concern or problems.

    My experiences only! We did several hundred feet at a time(once every couple months) of about 10-15 different species.
    Last edited by Tony Joyce; 05-02-2024 at 12:33 PM.
    "Only those who have the patience to do simple things perfectly will acquire the skill to do difficult things easily.”
    Friedrich von Schiller (1759-1805)

    "Quality means doing it right when no one is looking."
    Henry Ford

  7. #7
    Interesting looking stuff Edward, thanks.
    I remember a UK bandsaw retailer giving me a rather odd look when I asked for such a thing, (likely from seeing the Borson site)

    It does raise questions on many things, and likely most of all, being the knock on effects which some could speculate upon...
    Does it impact on certain things like tire stickiness and make cleaning the wheels a pain?
    or the tire becoming glazed over, and whether that matters dependent on various compound of tires, regarding the blade staying put on the wheels

    Does one use this just for the teeth, and not for narrow blades, or infact the opposite?
    I wonder why the stuff ain't so common, and why every brand doesn't have their own magic formula.

    Cheers
    Tom

  8. #8
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    Bandsaw sawyers use it but mostly for keeping pitch buildup off the blades, wheels, and guides. They're sawing fresh cut green wood though, which woodworkers do very little of. They use all sorts of concoctions including diesel fuel. I've never seen the need for it cutting dry non resinous wood.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tony Joyce View Post
    I worked for several years for a lumber company that did a lot of resawing for thin lumber sales. We ran a mix of water and Charley's soap(to prevent rust).
    The drip served two purposes, one cool the blade for longer blade life. Very important for exotic woods and hardwoods. Second to keep any resin buildup from occurring.
    There was never enough residual water left to cause any concern or problems.

    My experiences only! We did several hundred feet at a time(once every couple months) of about 10-15 different species.
    I must saw different wood, there is no pitch or resin buildup with furniture grade species that I use. I also saw slowly enough that the gullets are fine at carrying the dust away and no clogging.
    Last edited by Richard Coers; 05-02-2024 at 4:02 PM.

  10. #10
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    Once i used a lubricant to help with pitch resawing Douglas fir.
    I would not recommend it. The blade almost slipped off the crowned tires.
    I believe the lube was pam cooking spray.
    My current bandsaw has flat tires that I keep clean and dry at all cost.

  11. #11
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    We did not see a pitch buildup either, but you can get some with pine, eastern cedar, and some exotics(Bloodwood, Bocote, Chechen) I'm assuming all these are suitable for furniture.
    Try sanding exotics on a wide belt sander and you will plainly see the resin on the sandpaper. But that's just my experience,what do I know?
    We used 1-1/4", 1.3TPI blades on steel wheels. Baker resaw.
    "Only those who have the patience to do simple things perfectly will acquire the skill to do difficult things easily.”
    Friedrich von Schiller (1759-1805)

    "Quality means doing it right when no one is looking."
    Henry Ford

  12. #12
    Great feed back thankyou.
    I'm often using partially seasoned DF and other unseasoned species and note there is some build up in the gullets.
    I also have concerns about any effects on the tyres.
    If the kerf closes a bit then there's going to be more friction on the blade.
    I can only say the difference between cutting with the Bostik blade coat and without was significant. Specifically why that is
    I don't know.

  13. #13
    Thanks for sharing your experiences Andrew.
    Warning heeded.

    All the best
    Tom

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Houston, TX
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    100
    Quote Originally Posted by Edward Weber View Post
    https://www.olsonsaw.net/shop/coping...bricant-stick/
    8″ long x 1″ diameter. Prolongs blade life and produces smoother and quicker cuts. Specially compounded to keep metal, plastic, and wood cutting blades from clogging with wood chips or pitch. Use on all power and hand held cutting tools including band, scroll, circular, hack and jewelers saw blades
    I have one of these sticks, got it with a used scroll saw. I have not used it with a bandsaw but I have tried it with my scroll saw. It does actually work well but it only last for about 20 seconds until the lube wears of the blade. I have used paraffin wax and accomplished the same goal.

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Trees View Post
    Interesting looking stuff Edward, thanks.
    I remember a UK bandsaw retailer giving me a rather odd look when I asked for such a thing, (likely from seeing the Borson site)

    It does raise questions on many things, and likely most of all, being the knock on effects which some could speculate upon...
    Does it impact on certain things like tire stickiness and make cleaning the wheels a pain?
    or the tire becoming glazed over, and whether that matters dependent on various compound of tires, regarding the blade staying put on the wheels

    Does one use this just for the teeth, and not for narrow blades, or infact the opposite?
    I wonder why the stuff ain't so common, and why every brand doesn't have their own magic formula.

    Cheers
    Tom
    I typically only use that stuff when cutting wet wood for processing. Some species really build up just behind the teeth and in the gullet. It's a PITA to clean and this stuff helps keep it from sticking in the first place.
    YMMV of course

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