What to use here?

[Charles Hans]

I just turned two segmented Peppermills and I am wondering what the most durable finish would be, since they will have a lot of handling? I was thinking Lacquer but I'm not sure that is my best choice.

Chuck Hans

[tod evans]

as much as i hate to say it...........poly.....02 tod

[John Miliunas]

I agree w/Tod. Almost hurts to say it but, poly would be the obvious choice, IMHO. I would, however, go with a wipe-on like Arm-R-Seal or similar, which doesn't leave as much of a "plastic" look to it.

[Charles Hans]

Thanks Guys, I definately don't want the plastic look, I will go with the wipe on finish. I am going to coat the inside with shellac to seal it.

[Ken Salisbury]

Thanks Guys, I definately don't want the plastic look, I will go with the wipe on finish. I am going to coat the inside with shellac to seal it.

You can get wipe on poly in satin or semi gloss, or simply dilute poly you have on hand 50/50 with mineral spirits or naphta.

[Steve Schoene]

You really don't need to sink as low as poly. A traditional resin varnish, alkyd or phenolic will be fully protective enough, and helps avoid the plastic look. A bit easier to repair if need be. Pepper mills get handled a lot, but not seriously abused or walked on. Frankly, poly is only needed for floors. I should add it can be a wipe-on. Bought that way like Waterlox, or made by addition of a few good dollops of thinner.

In fact, I used shellac on some I made at Christmas. Just have to avoid using strong cleaners on them, but I wouldn't do that anyway. Not like kitchen cabinets in that regard.

[John Miliunas]

In fact, I used shellac on some I made at Christmas. Just have to avoid using strong cleaners on them, but I wouldn't do that anyway. Not like kitchen cabinets in that regard.

Steve, shellac is one of my favorites for "spinny" stuff but, the thing about this particular case is that, a pepper mill may be subject to an area where it can easily get "splashed" or handled by someone with alcohol on their hand(s). Yes, much more "repairable" than poly but, I'm thinking the poly shouldn't need to be repaired under normal table use. Just MHO...

[Steve Schoene]

I pretty much agree that shellac is a risk here that many wouldn't want to take.

My main point really should be that the added protection of poly, compared to traditional resin varnishes is small and mostly concentrated in the area of abrasion resistance. Just about any event that will "ding" varnish will also "ding" poly. Behlen Rockhard or Pratt & Lambert 38 are both pretty darn protective.

[Jim Becker]

I would still use Shellac for this kind of project, but agree that a wipe-on varnish or even Deft lacquer in the spray can are also excellent choices. "Poly" varnish isn't necessary, but if it's all you have, it will work just fine, too...wiped on for simplicity.