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Thread: Board Twist Question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
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    Glenmoore, PA
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    2,194

    Board Twist Question

    Ok, I am going to bite the bullet and ask what might be a dumb question. A week ago I purchased a fairly large quantity of 4/4 cherry for my project. I had the guys at the yard plane one face and rip one edge (S2S). I typically get S3S from the yard. I stickered it in my shop for the week. On Saturday I took a board out (about 35" x 6"), ran it through the planer to 3/4 of an inch and ripped about 1/4" off one edge. Standard stuff, we all do it all the time. This process revealed a simply stunning cherry board. I had something come up and had to leave the shop so I left it lying on the bench. I returned on Sunday to see that my beautiful board now has a fairly serious wind to it. It might also be material information to note that on Saturday night we got something like 12" of snow where on Sat morning we hade none. So, my questions are;

    1) Should I have gotten the stock planed on both sides (S3S) and thus I can expect this from all the stock?
    2) Did I not let it aclimate to my shop conditons for long enough (a week)?
    3) Did it happen because I let it lay flat on the bench overnight?
    4) Was it just "one of those boards"?

    I suspect #'s 3 and 4 are the most likely. I have had boards twist before but there was enough deviation from my usual process which typically yields dimensionally stable stock that I thought I would ask.

    Thanks in advance for your time . . .

    L

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Oakdale, CT
    Posts
    50
    This is a tough time of year for wood. What was the moisture content at the Mill? A week in your shop probably wasn't enough during the winter. Is your shop heated or does the temp fluctuate? Also, did you put some weight on the boards for the week? Sorry for all the questions but many things can effect the wood. Planning and ripping it exposes new surfaces and can release the pressures holding the board straight and let it twist. It is a good idea to plane and rip boards a bit over size and re-sticker for additional time. This is one of the hardest parts of woodworking for most of us, waiting.
    When I invest in stock like cherry or oak I will pay a bit extra to have it run through the kiln. There are many views on air-dried vs. kiln dried, but for me the kiln dried works on stock that is new to me. I have air-dried stock that is over 3 years old and I don't hesitate to use this, but only because I know the history. I have had some beautiful 4/4 stock end up being 1/2" drawer sides after planning out the cups and twists.
    Bob Nazro
    A Connecticut Yankee
    I've measured this three times and each time I cut it, it's still to short...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    190
    Larry,

    I suspect it was a combination of 3 things:

    You planed it to 3/4" ... all on one side.
    {remove equal amounts from each side}

    You laid it on your bench.
    {you should sticker it, allow air/moisture to all sides, equally}

    You had a great change in relative moisture to freshly exposed material.


    Then again, it could have been "one of those boards".
    ~Dan

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Glenmoore, PA
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    Bob, thanks for the response. Moisture at the mill was between 6 and 8. Temp definitely fluctuates. I heat it only when I am in it. I am in a garage and have a dehumidifier running almost constantly. I did not put weight on the pile for the week. Board came off the pile very flat. It sounds like I should let it sit for a while. I also like your idea of rough milling and restickering for a bit.

  5. #5
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    Aug 2005
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    Dan, I tried to plane an equal amount from each side. Sorry, I left that out of my earlier post. The rest of your statements are true though and I suspect it is the combination of the things you mention that were the cause in this particular case.

  6. #6
    larry, in my years of woodbutcherie finding a board that will stay still for even a week with out being restrained is a difficult task. what is the use for this board? will you be gluing it into an assembly of some sort where it will be forced to behave? if you need a board to be stable all by itself my suggestion is to do a lamination using 1/4 sawn stock for a core and bandsawn veneers for the faces.....02 tod
    TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN; I ACCEPT FULL LEGAL RESPONSIBILITY FOR MY POSTS ON THIS FORUM, ALL POSTS ARE MADE IN GOOD FAITH CONTAINING FACTUAL INFORMATION AS I KNOW IT.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
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    Glenmoore, PA
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    Tod, it is intended to be a vertical face-frame member. I know it sounds really wide for that purpose but it is a for a wierd little corner that I have in the kitchen. It will be constrained when it is eventually attached to the rest of the frame. I only really need it to behave until I can complete machining some decorative goodies ono it.

    Thanks for the time to reply . . .

    L

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
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    I tried to plane an equal amount from each side.

    I assumed that you had done so, but suggested the equal amount planeing for those who are following along at home. I also tend to hang out more in the hand tools area and don't "know" you as well.

    When you say simply stunning Cherry board I read "squirrelly grain". I wonder if you sticker it and let it lay for a few days if it will "relax". I know it's doubtful, but you never know.

    Otherwise, knock the high corners off with a, ahem, handplane and get it into the frame and onto the carcass as soon as possible. Trying to constrain lumber is arduous at best.
    ~Dan

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