Music Stand ideas

[Bob Elzinga]

Sorry for the confusion- I never have been able to explain things very well.

I used 3 pieces for the glue-up of the post. I cut the groove in one side of the center piece, the glued them together. Then I cut the piece to size making sure the groove was in the center of the blank. After turning on the lathe, I drilled the hole to the final (7/8" dia) size. The bit followed the groove so that after I was finished I had a nice straight hole.

If you were to use a stair baluster, or if you turn the peice first, you could then rip it in half and cut a groove in each piece, then glue it back together. That would work as well I would think.

Hope that helps.

[Mark Drayton]

Here's one I did a few years ago. The top isn't so elegant - primarily a frame and raised panel design. The stand itself is shaker inspired - I have made a couple of candle stands using a similar design. The spindle was glued up after routing a groove in two pieces to receive the stem of the top. I made the brassware myself on a metalworking lathe. The wood is Goncalo Alves finished with Danish oil.

Mark

[Keel McDonald]

Thanks Bob for the clear up. I thought that might be what you did, but wanted to make sure.

Mark, That stand is very nice too. I especially like the feet. It looks sturdy, yet very light. I will probably incorporate some ideas from both of the designs shown in this thread. You know, they say that a pic is worth a 1,000 words...that's true for me at least. I can gain much more info from a pic. However, it's hard to take a pic of the "inards" of a project. I appreciate both of you.

One additional question...how do you keep the "dowel", that slides up and down in the base, from getting marred by the adjustment knob? Do you drill holes in the dowel and slip a pin through to hold it in the desired position, or use a "screw" to hold pressure against the dowel?

[Bob Elzinga]

I use a machine screw pressing against a metal tab to hold it to height. Unfortunately, as soft as cherry is, it still leaves a small indentation. Luckily, my daughter leaves it at the same height most of the time.

If I did it again, I would try to use a metal band clamp lined with heavy felt or possibly rubber to hold it to height. That would at least apply even pressure all the way around it.

If anyone else has any idesa I'd like to hear them, also.

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Dan,

One of my favorites is SMC member Alice Frampton's--Alf as she is also known. It's on her web site and well documented:
http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/musicstandindex.html

Take care, Mike

[Keel McDonald]

Hi Dan,

One of my favorites is SMC member Alice Frampton's--Alf as she is also known. It's on her web site and well documented:
http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/musicstandindex.html

Take care, Mike

Mike,

Thanks for sharing the link. I actually came across this link while surfing the net trying to find any info on building one. However, because I really was not interested in the design, I didn't take the time to read it.

After your post, I took the time to read it. And, although I still am not very fond of the look, I very much valued the step-by-step process. It gave me insight as to how the tilting mechanism she used worked, as well as the height adjustment. It also allowed me to see how she turned the center post on the lathe after cutting out the groove in the middle. I would highly recommend reading this article before starting this project.

[Mark Drayton]

Keel,

In mine, the sliding post is square so it doesn't rotate in its square hole. The post has a series of holes drilled through. A brass pin just slides through a hole in the spindle, engages with one of the holes in the post and into a blind hole diametrically opposite the entry hole on the spindle. Very simple but it works well - the stand is regularly height adjusted for sitting and standing horn playing and then standing flute playing by a taller family member. I turned the pin from a length of hexagonal brass, keeping the hex for the handle and laquering to avoid tarnish.

Mark