Newbie raised panel bit question

[James A. Wolfe]

I seem to be in the minority here. I have a horizontal router table and raise my panels using my biggest router. I have used a 1-1/2 HP PC router in this setup and since I'm able to keep the RPM's up with the smaller diameter cutter, it whizzes through nearly as fast as the 3+ HP model. As far as the backside cut, I'm firmly in the plane to 5/8" camp unless I get a panel that's too big for my planer. Then I just chuck up a straight cutter and have after it.

Jim

[Paul C.]

Thanks for all the information guys. Great site you all have here. I think I'll go with the raised panel cutter without a backcutter. That way I can justify buying a planer to get my stock down to 5/8. I've sure come to realize woodworking is not a cheap hobby especially when you're first starting out. Thanks again.

[Chris Giles]

Paul,
One last word of caution-try to use a table router with a proper fence for cutting these panels if you have one. A panel bit is a pretty big hunk of metal spinning very fast on that shaft and could be a recipe for disaster if you are not used to them. If you don't have a table routing set-up, make an oversized base for the router that will ride comfortably on the workpiece and keep your hands a safe distance from the cutter. Safety is paramount on an operation like this and deserves some serious consideration before you ever turn on the machine. Best of luck.

[Matt Tawes]

Hey Charles,

No offense but I have many panel bits (Whiteside, Jesada, Inifinty,MLCS, and Freud) and unfortunately Freud is the only one that does not leave the corect reveal when using a 5/8" thick panel as the one I have will only work with 3/4" thick stock and it then needs to be backcut. Otherwise the 3 wing cutter by Freud is fantastic in the cut that it gives. I never specifically looked for panel bits that would work with 5/8" thick stock when I bought the others.

[Jerry Olexa]

A backcutter does not allow you to gently raise your bit for each pass when removing large amounts of wood in a panel. I like to do it later when panel is completed.

[Jon Farley]

[quote=Chris Giles]Paul,
One last word of caution-try to use a table router with a proper fence for cutting these panels if you have one.quote]

"Try to use a router table!?!?" For safety reasons I would think you have to!

[Charles McCracken]

A backcutter does not allow you to gently raise your bit for each pass when removing large amounts of wood in a panel. I like to do it later when panel is completed.

Jerry,

You can get the same effect by setting the bit to the final height and using the fence to limit the cut for each pass.

[Charles McCracken]

Hey Charles,

No offense but I have many panel bits (Whiteside, Jesada, Inifinty,MLCS, and Freud) and unfortunately Freud is the only one that does not leave the corect reveal when using a 5/8" thick panel as the one I have will only work with 3/4" thick stock and it then needs to be backcut. Otherwise the 3 wing cutter by Freud is fantastic in the cut that it gives. I never specifically looked for panel bits that would work with 5/8" thick stock when I bought the others.

Matt,

Unlike the others you mentioned we offer cutters for either 5/8" or 3/4" stock. If you have the one for 3/4" and use it for 3/4" you will not have to backcut and the panel will be app. 1/8" proud of the frame. Some offer cutters that are only for 5/8" stock (Infinity is one of these) and others have cutters that are supposed to do both thicknesses (like Whiteside). The latter type works okay but the profile changes drastically between the two thicknesses since some make a deeper step from the face and others add or lose an extra profile detail. 3 distinct ways of making bits so I guess it comes down to a decision of which type works best for the individual.

[Fred Voorhees]

Jerry,

You can get the same effect by setting the bit to the final height and using the fence to limit the cut for each pass.

Exactly what I do. Never presented a problem.