Lumber rack pics wanted!

[David Eisan]

Dear All,

I have to build a large lumber rack for the basement, anyone have a pics they would like to share?

Thanks,

David.

Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.

[Steve Clardy]

These racks are discarded pallet racks in my shop. Kinda messy right now, but they work for me. Steve

[Ken Salisbury]

Dear All,

I have to build a large lumber rack for the basement, anyone have a pics they would like to share?
David.

This is not my lumber rack but some pics from my archives of one that I want to build when I get the time. I scavengered these pics from Badger Pond way back when.

[Scott Coffelt]

I choose to go with something that was adjustable. This isn't a very good pic and I have added longer shelf brackets and more standards (I think their called) since this pic. I got these heavy duty brackets from HD, mounted them on every stud. You can get them several lengths, so it is real flexible. They also don't take up too much room, so I can maximize my space. I store my full sheet goods in the garage. I have other storage used for cut offs.

[Mike Evertsen]

check my shop pictures at
http://community.webshots.com/user/98mike

[Kevin Post]

Here's a picture of my lumber rack...



I started with 2x4s mounted to the wall horizontally. They are lag bolted into the wall studs.



The uprights consist of 2 - 2x4s attached together. I cut dados in the boards to form a mortise where the faces of the two boards meet when screwed together. The cantilever supports are 2x4s which slide into the mortises. They receive further strength from brackets cut from MDO plywood. The supports are then held in the mortises with carriage bolts.

The uprights rest on the concrete floor and need to extend all the way to the ceiling to distribute the load across the entire wall. Ideally, they should be attached to the ceiling joists or rafters as well. If you only go half-way up or down, for instance, the weight of the load could cause the wall to fail. These are attached to the horizontal 2x4s with metal brackets and screws.



Here's a view from the side... As you can see, I have this thing loaded down pretty well. Also note that the horizontal 2x4s are positioned so that they sit behind where the plywood bracket push in against the wall.



I like the cantilever design because I can load and unload it from the front rather than sliding the boards from the end. This design also allows me to place shorter boards on the rack because I won't have trouble reaching them as I would from an end-loaded rack. If you don't need to store this much, just leave off the lower supports but DO extend the verticals from floor to ceiling if you are going to load the upper portion down as I have. Then you could roll mobile tools, clamp racks, compressor or other things on the floor beneath the lumber.

-Kevin

[Jim Becker]

In essence, I have two lumber racks...one, incorporated as part of my miter station and the other, larger one, at the opposite side of the shop. The latter one also incorporates storage for sheet goods. The picture of it below (empty rack) is from before I did the shop expansion...it's now "reversed" and on another wall, but you can see the general idea. The thumbnail of the panoramic view of the shop from the north end shows you where it is now on the far right. I have a LOT of lumber on that rack at present and it's not even breathing heavy...

[James Mudler]

Hey Ken,

I have a book from Time Life Books - Woodsmith with plans for that wood rack plus other projects. I built the same rack myself. If you would like to borrow it, let me know.

James

[Dr. Zack Jennings]

"Here's Mine"

[Byron Trantham]

here is my solution for a 20x20 shop. With space being very limited, my storage is also limited. In fact, I have storage in my garage to augment the shop storage. That's where I keep my rough sawn wood. BTW, this pic is about 5 years old. I still use this system but believe me when I say it (the shop) isn't clean anymore and I have lost about 35 lbs!

[Matt Meiser]

Here is mine. Made from 3/4" black pipe, 2x4's, and foam pipe insulation.

I drilled holes every 12" into the 2" side of the 2x4's angled up slightly, then mounted them on the wall. This part of my garage is pole barn construction, mounting was relatively easy. I just slipped the top behind the top beam and rested the bottom on the bottom beam. Scraps of 2x blocking were used to keep everythign in place. I then slid 18" pieces of black pipe into each hole and cut foam insulation to cover each pipe. The rack is very solid and had 300 bdft+ of oak on it at first.