Finishing Paduak and Maple Segmented turning?

[Bob Opsitos]

I'm working on a Maple segmented turning that has a Paduak top ring and a seperate non-turned Paduak base. The turned form is kind a funneled vase that will be the main part of a golf tournament trophy and the base is a tapered octagon.

Anyway, in finish sanding the base when wiping down the base with MS (after wet sanding) the dust color "bleeds" onto the rag. It's even worse when I used DNA (after I ended up with red hands I realized I should wear gloves) to wipe the base down.

As I generally like to wet sand my turnings (using MS), I'm worried about color bleed on to the Maple peices. I recall a post on here discussing how to deal with segemetned turnings using Paduak and light colored woods.

I plan to finish with Danish oil or BLO and then buff out the peice.

Any help is appreciated.
thanks
bob

[George Troy Hurlburt]

I have done a lot of segmented turnings. Here is how I deal with paduak and other woods from which the dust can carry over to a light wood. The project is finished shear scraped. Then Deft clear wood finish is apply. Shear scraped again while the Deft is damp. Seal with Deft again and let dry for several hours. I work on the inside after sealing. When the Deft is dry I then sand with inertia sanders, not the power. From that point on you can use your Tung oil finish. This works best for me, it does take a little more time. GT

[Mike Vickery]

Good luck I was once stupid enough to make a , maple and paduak chessboard and it was a nightmare. Padauk based on my reading is a dye wood and the dye from the wood has a habit of trying to contaminate everything. I sealed the padauk with finsh and then cleaning up the light wood.

Bye the way read up on padauk finishing. My understanding is oil based finished will allow the wood to go to a preyty dark color while water based finished seem to keep the red better. My limited personal experience has found this to be true.