Would You Use This Wood?

[Vaughn McMillan]

My sister has asked me to make a cutting board for my nephew, who is taking the Culinary Arts program at the local community college. (I have no idea how she figured I'd be able to make a cutting board. ) They want a utilitarian 18" x 24" x about 1.5" to 2" thick end grain board. That part I can handle. (Of course, they could simply buy a John Boos board for about $70 -- nearly what the materails alone would cost me, but then it wouldn't have any special connection.)

In the meantime, one of my cousins heard about this, and has offered me some reclaimed hard maple flooring for free, which is about $10 to $14 per bf less than I'm paying in SoCal. He mentioned that the flooring was tongue and grioove, and also had a "recess" on the bottom of each board...all of which would need to be milled off for my use. Apparently he and a friend salvaged it years ago, and it's been sitting unused since then. My first concern, and first question to him was if there were nails in the wood, but he claims there were none. (Still not sure whether to believe that or not.)

That all said, my cousin has managed to bring part of his stash from Nebraska to my sister's house in New Mexico. If I want the wood, I can arrange to have it brought here in a few months when my mom and dad come here this spring for a wedding. If I don't want it, the wood will eventually make its way to southern New Mexico where my cousin is moving to retire. Here's a look at the wood:

Maple Flooring.jpg

As you can see, the wood's pretty beat up and at least some of it's pretty crooked. I'd be working with short enough pieces that I can likely work around all but the worst of the warpage. It goes without saying that I'd invest in a metal detector before cutting into any of this lumber.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Should I walk away from the offer and build my nephew's board out of new stock, or should I just count this post as my first official free lumber gloat?

TIA -

- Vaughn

[Norman Hitt]

Vaughn, you didn't say how thick the flooring mat'l is, but my only concern, (other than what you have already mentioned about nails, etc), is that by the time you get it all milled flat & thickness planed, it seems to me that it will be awfully thin and sure require a LOT more pieces to be glued up than in a normal end grain (butcher block) type cutting board, but this may not be a concern for you.

[Bill Lewis]

I'd take it, and I'd use it. But I'm a sucker for free wood. Wood is wood as long as it's not begun to rot.

[Dave Fifield]

I'd take it. Even if, after you've milled it clean and straight, you decide it's no good for that particular job, I'm sure you'd find another project that it could be used for later. I wouldn't bother planing it down so far as to remove the groove/s on the underside. Leave voids in the center of the cutting board - who will ever know (apart from everyone on SMC)?

[Vaughn McMillan]

Norman, from the description I've gotten, it sounds like it'd plane down to somewhere between 3/4" and 1" thick, and about 2" to 2.5" wide. Not your standard 2" x 2" chopping block configuration, but I could make rectangular pieces work, and maybe even do some type of pattern with them.

Bill, I'm a sucker for almost anything free too. This is my first chance at a pile of wood (albeit small), and just wanted to do a sanity check to be sure my eyes weren't just glazing over a bit.

Dave, I agree with you about taking it, whether for this project or another. Free wood is free wood. On your other suggestion, if I orient the wood so the end grain is the cutting surface, there won't be a way to hide the grooves on the bottom. (Plus, my solid wood cutting boards are solid wood. Sort of a reputation thing. )

Thanks guys -

- Vaughn

[Norman Hitt]

Yeah, Vaughn, I forgot to mention that I'd take the wood too, and if it didn't work out, Welllllllllllllllll.........It would always be good for something else, and I don't think doubt they would drive that far just to take it back.

If you can get 3/4" to 1" thickness after milling, it will probably work out OK, anyhow. I figured you were only starting out with 3/4" before milling and that would have made it pretty thin.

GET THE WOOD, and then show us what it turns into.

[Tim Devery]

Funny you would run this thread.
I just did the same thing with used wood flooring.
I am a wood flooring contractor, so I have lots of left over wood.
First off, I resawed off the top prefinished surface, did not want to run any prefinished surface through my planer. I can still remember running through some painted material, dumb idea.
Then I planed off the top surface, flipped it over and got rid of the groves.
Jointed off the toung and ripped each to 1 1/2" wide, glued em up.
Plained the whole mess and cut a handle in the square.
Coated with Veg oil.
Now I have a cheese cutting board.
Total job (work) time 1 hour, and made some brownie points with the wife.

[Bruce Page]

Personally, Unless the wood was special or has some sentimental value of some sort, I’d pass on it. I like to start with a clean slate and not have to worry about nails, warping, stains, etc. But hey, that’s just me.

[Bill Simmeth]

For free wood, I'd normally say "heck yeah!" But, seeing as how it's for a food chopping block, I'd think twice. Unless you have a good handle on what's been on and around the wood, save it for another (non-food) project.

[Brandon Shew]

For free wood, I'd normally say "heck yeah!" But, seeing as how it's for a food chopping block, I'd think twice. Unless you have a good handle on what's been on and around the wood, save it for another (non-food) project.

I agree w/ you and Bruce. It was first installed as a floor and subject to who knows what chemical treatments in the process. Then it was left outside for some time in the rain and elements. Even after milling I wouldn't want that anywhere near my food.

From my own personal experience in making an end grain board - if the wood isn't perfectly straight and cut to exacting specifications you're going to have one heck of a time getting it to glue up properly and hold w/o any gaps (and gaps are breeding grounds for bacteria on cutting boards).

[Keith Christopher]

I'd pass on it for a cutting board, hardwood flooring gets so much abuse and who know what embedded/soaked in. Think pets...Think shoes. Think feet, think fungus think dust.. . .

Ok maybe I'm a little too nit picky but I personally would never use a cutting board made from old maple flooring.

[Chris Padilla]

Mill up some of the better pieces and see what you've got. Could be some gems under the grit...you never know.

[Vaughn McMillan]

Good points on the "you don't know where it's been" aspect. On the other hand, a cutting board on the average kitchen counter is exposed to all sorts of dirt, grime, germs, mold, and dog hair. Any lumber you buy has potentially been subjected to some dirt and grime and diesel fuel. Also, a lot of wood is left outdoors for indeterminate lengths of time before being used, so I'm not real concerned with what it might pick up from the elements. The point about potential chemical treatments (which might have soaked deeper into the wood than I'd be milling) is a good one, though, and I'll definitely take it into consideration. I'm gonna go ahead and take the wood, and as Chris suggested mill some up and see what's there. I'll decide what to use it for once I see it in the flesh.

And Brandon, point taken (and agreed) about the need for exacting dimensions. Here's an example of an end grain board I built that made that real clear to me:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachme...5&d=1140077738

Thanks all for the advice -

- Vaughn

[scott spencer]

I'd definitely use it. Clean it up, square it, and lay it on edge to laminate them together. Good luck!

[Tim Devery]

The wood I used for my cutting board was "new" wood.
I think I would pass on the old wood in a food envirenment.
I have seen plenty of really bad wood floors. YUCH