Attaching Face Frame To Bookcase

[Gary Groves]

I'm building wall unit bookcases. The main unit will be 10' long, 7' tall and 12 inches deep.

I also built a smaller stand alone bookcase. When I attached the face frame, I used all of my clamps. I realized, that when I build the face frame for the main unit, there's no way I'll be able to clamp it together especially in the middle.

So I say say to myself: "Self, use cauls".

I figure I could use 2x4's and clamp them vertically over the vertical parts of the individual units. I assume the cauls should be tappered somewhat, but, I was wondering how much? Assuming, that I use 8' 2x's as the cauls, how much in the middle should be flat? What about the angle from that point?

Thanks in advance.

Gary.

[Brian Hale]

5 layers of duct tape in the middle and 3 layers half way to the ends.

[Chris Padilla]

How about using pocket screws? These excel at such endeavours.

[Vaughn McMillan]

Another possible solution would be BowClamp cauls:

http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=31535

- Vaughn

[George Summers]

"Just a couple of brads until the glue dries." (Norm - 2006, 2005, 2004, 2003, 2002, etc)

George

[Dev Emch]

"Just a couple of brads until the glue dries." (Norm - 2006, 2005, 2004, 2003, 2002, etc)

George

That's Funny! I have heard that a million times but he never removes the brads after the glue dries....

[Gary Herrmann]

Ditto pocket screws.

[Stephen Dixon]

Just go to LOWES or HD and get their best 2x4 stud, I guarantee it will have enough bow to pull your face frame in tight.

[Roger Everett]

Easiest way to attach the face feames --16 penny common nails. If the bright chrome head bothers you, touch it up with a majic marker, and tell people they are Ebony dowels.
Roger

[Craig Feuerzeig]

As the resident expert ( or idiot, depending on your perspective ) on this subject (I have devoted much of my life, and livelyhood to curved cauls) I would like to share some of my expierence.

The bowed 2x4 would be a better choice than a tapered version, but they almost always twist as well as bowing. Anything tapered to a point will only provide pressure at the point. Also any flat spot on the caul will bow backward when bent.

Hand sanding and planing were always imperfect at best, leaving a few high spots. Inevitably I would break out the shims to pick up the slack, but the problem then was, as soon as you tighten one shim, the neighboring shim becomes loose.

Next thought is that 8 feet is an awfully long way, the arc on a 2 x 4 would have to be so great, to give enough pressure, that you couldn't straighten it with the available thread length of your clamps.

And thanks Vaughn!

[Michael Adelong]

Just go to LOWES or HD and get their best 2x4 stud, I guarantee it will have enough bow to pull your face frame in tight.

This only works if you go there intending to buy a straight one. If you go wanting to buy a curved one, you won't be able to find one. It will be the day when they have the nicest, straightest 2x4s you've ever seen in stock...

At least that's how my luck runs...

Michael

[Mike Cutler]

Just go to LOWES or HD and get their best 2x4 stud, I guarantee it will have enough bow to pull your face frame in tight.

ROTFL . Thanks for the laugh Stephen, I needed it.

I'd use an epoxy, less clamp pressure required, and the Duct Tape method, although I would probably use fiberglass packing tape instead of duct tape.

[Craig Zettle]

Just this week I attached face frames to about 25 or so 10' display cabinets, and our method was to cut a dado in the face frame, load it with glue, clamp a plywood strip (actually 3- 3/4 strips glued together to get enough thickness) stood on end, with 4 to 5 clamps each side. Put in 2 biscuts across the top of the cabinet, let the whole thing dry 2 hours, that's it.

[Jay Goddard]

As the resident expert ( or idiot, depending on your perspective ) on this subject (I have devoted much of my life, and livelyhood to curved cauls) I would like to share some of my expierence....

Craig,

After looking at your website and video I must say I am very impressed with your product, the Bowclamp. I'm interested in placing an order, but have one question:

You show the Bowclamp working with standard inexpensive bar clamps with round clamp faces to fit inside the t-track. Most of my clamps are either Bessey K-Bodies or standard 3/4" pipe clamps. These obviously won't fit in the t-track, but will there be any real problems using these very common clamps?

Thanks,

Jay

[Craig Feuerzeig]

Thanks Jay,

The Bowclamp will work with any clamp. Pipe clamps and k-body type clamps, while not attaching into the t-slot, fit right over the back and work equally well. The same goes for any deep-jaw clamps that have the larger pad.