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Thread: Micromesh/pen turning question...

  1. #1
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    Micromesh/pen turning question...

    OK, got some micromesh, but I don't seem to know how to use it.

    I started with the smallest grit (1200), which they say is equivalent to 600 grit sandpaper.

    When I use it, it smooths the wood, but seems to leave a black stain (for lack of a better term) in the pores. I have been using cherry, but now want to do some maple pens.

    How do I keep the micromesh from staining my wood black?

    Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated.
    Martin, Granbury, TX
    Student of the Shaker style

  2. #2
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    Could it be that you're pressing too hard and smushing the stuff right into the wood. That's what happens to me. Cleans up easy by dropping back to a coarser grit.

    A light touch is needed with this stuff, Martin.
    Only the Blue Roads

  3. #3
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    Something I find that helps clean pores is made by General Finish. It is Furniture cleaner. I wipe it on between sanding grits when working with lighter woods.

    Something that will help with the micromesh ir to lubricate it with a clear oil.

    Bruce

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Hoyt
    Could it be that you're pressing too hard and smushing the stuff right into the wood. That's what happens to me. Cleans up easy by dropping back to a coarser grit.

    A light touch is needed with this stuff, Martin.

    Sounds right to me, but then I use the sponge backed stuff and that doesn't happen. But I can see where it would happen with the mesh.

    Ernie

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Hoyt
    Could it be that you're pressing too hard and smushing the stuff right into the wood. That's what happens to me. Cleans up easy by dropping back to a coarser grit.

    A light touch is needed with this stuff, Martin.
    Yes, that could very well be it. I'll try a lighter touch. Thanks.
    Martin, Granbury, TX
    Student of the Shaker style

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Shiverdecker
    Something I find that helps clean pores is made by General Finish. It is Furniture cleaner. I wipe it on between sanding grits when working with lighter woods.

    Something that will help with the micromesh ir to lubricate it with a clear oil.

    Bruce
    I am familiar with General Finish, but didn't know they made a furniture cleaner...do I get it at Woodcraft or the big box stores?

    Clear oil? is that BLO?

    Thanks Bruce.
    Martin, Granbury, TX
    Student of the Shaker style

  7. #7
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    Larry at Berea once told me that micromesh should be applied lightly to the wood. Ed

  8. #8
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    My Micromesh starts at 1500 and goes to 12,000.
    Are you starting at the right end of the grit.
    I guess you could have something different than I do.
    Martin----I will send you a PM
    ---I may be broke---but we have plenty of wood---

  9. #9
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    St. George, Vt
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    I found that on Maple I was getting a black area at the ends of the blanks. This would happen if I sanded from the bearing on to the wood. Now I sand from the center of the blank out to the bearing. My guess is that I was dragging the bearing material (aluminum) in to the wood. I also clean between each grit with dna.

    hope this helps
    bob

  10. #10
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    Just curious.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Max
    My Micromesh starts at 1500 and goes to 12,000.
    Gary,
    Over the past few years, I've seen where a number of pen turners use these astronomical grit numbers in finishing pens. I haven't made many pens lately but I made several hundred a couple of years ago. I went up to 600 grit sandpaper, stopped the lathe and took a couple of axial strokes on the blank to make the "microscopic" scratch marks disappear into the grain. I then used EEE-Ultra-Shine on wood blanks or plain old automotive rubbing compound on antler blanks to get the "smooth" or, as with antlers, "ceramic" finished product that I was looking for.

    What am I missing?

    Dale T.
    I am so busy REMAKING my projects that I don't have time to make them the FIRST time!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dale Thompson
    Gary,
    Over the past few years, I've seen where a number of pen turners use these astronomical grit numbers in finishing pens. I haven't made many pens lately but I made several hundred a couple of years ago. I went up to 600 grit sandpaper, stopped the lathe and took a couple of axial strokes on the blank to make the "microscopic" scratch marks disappear into the grain. I then used EEE-Ultra-Shine on wood blanks or plain old automotive rubbing compound on antler blanks to get the "smooth" or, as with antlers, "ceramic" finished product that I was looking for.

    What am I missing?

    Dale T.
    Dale, I just bought a little package of those sanding pads to sand acrylics. By the time you get to the 12k they are buffed. But then I found that it works the same for stabilized and any of the extra hard wood pen blanks. It gets them to a high gloss without any finish. I just go to 600 on regular wood, but it's amazing what those pads do to acrylics or something like ebony.

    Ernie

  12. #12
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    Aurora, Co.
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    the dark stains you are getting on the pens may be some of the material you are sanding off of the bushings that you use on the mandrel. If the wood is a very light color you may be getting the fine steel cuttings off of the bushing into the wood. If this is what is happening try sanding your pens and not touching the bushings. If it stops you will know what your problem is. This does not seem to be a problem if you use darker wood.

  13. #13
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    Evening Martin. The Furniture Cleaner comes in a bottle and is available at Woodcraft as well as other General Finish outlets. BTW, the reason I started using it was because I was getting the dark stains on my pens, too.

    Bruce

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