My New Workshop Plans...First Cut.

[Matt Meiser]

I agree with the above comments on the lumber rack. That and I don't think it is big enough. I built a "huge" lumber rack in my shop. I now have that, a bunch of stuff stored vertically, a shelving unit for shorts about 2' long, and a rolling cart for longer shorts (~3-5') All are full because of deals I've gotten on lumber. One thing you could consider is extending the roof behind the DC room to create a sheltered lumber storage area for long term storage.

Like someone else said, I'd put the drill press closer to the assembly area. Maybe think about switching the grinder and bandsaw with the drill press and mortiser because. That will let you do your rough work on the bottom of the shop and the joinery/assembly at the top. You also might want to think about a rolling cart for your WIP. I found moving from a small garage shop to a larger dedicated shop that one was helpful to have a place to set stuff down.

[Jeff Singleton]

Gary, Your DC is a long way from the two main sources of sawdust, planer and jointer. I would move it to the other side of the shop. Long runs with a DC loose cfm as they grow in length. If you plan on running the DC to the sanders you could swap the lathe, drill press and mortiser with the sanders. I think a phase convertor is in your future. Also, please don't let anyone talk you into plastic DC pipe, static isn't worth it. Run a ground wire, 2 ga. from your DC to a 8' copper ground stake outside the shop. Metal duct work for DC's isn't expensive if you know where to buy. Great size shop and I like what someone else said, don't go smaller with that assembly table. Good luck.

Jeff Singleton
Singleton's Woodworking & Pattern Works

[Fred Ray]

Gary, swap th drill press and mortiser for the grinder in your layout. If you do any turning to speak of, you'll appreciate the fewer steps to sharpen the tools. The DP and mortiser fit just as well in the flow of things where you now have the grinder.

Also, forget about three phase power unless you're going to hire a lot of help and/or buy a lot of old big iron machines. 240 volts, single phase will esily run anything in the 10 HP and below range, and electrical equipment, wiring , etc. will be less complex and less costly.

[Gary Stallings]

Thanks for the thoughts guys........I'll work on the plans a bit this evening and post an update. Great thoughts.

[Steve Clardy]

Heres my shop layout. See if it will link over.
The key to a shop layout is material flow. Mine starts at the back of shop, and finish product ends up and the front.

[Larry Browning]

Gary,
A few more comments. Consider moving the workbench out away from the wall. I have my TS turned 90deg from yours and really like it that way. I have a large outfeed table and the workbench behind that for extra support for long boards. If you are concerned about infeed/outfeed space for the TS. Think about what the longest piece you have ripped in the past. I only need about 10 feet max. I have had no problems at all with the TS positioned 90deg to the jointer. Also you should consider the DC ducting as you layout your shop.

As far as heating and cooling go, I have radiant floor heating and a 24,000 btu window AC unit installed in the wall. I absolutely LOVE the radiant floor heating, There is no open flame or blower and is is absolutely hassle free, but it may be a little overkill for our climate. I see that you live in Georgia, do you get a lot of cold weather? If you are interested in more details on what I did, let me know.
I am also pleased with the wooden pier and beam floor instead of concrete. It is SO much eaiser on the feet and back. It also give me the option of having the elec outlets to the various machines in the floor, and they can be moved if I so choose. I also have put some of the DC ducting under there as well. Just be sure you go with 2x10 or 2x12 for the floor joists. (don't listen to the builder like I did) All of my heavy machines are placed over the center beam for support. I added extra support under the jointer and planer (what a hassle)

[Larry Browning]

More thoughts,
I have the bathroom adjacent to the finish room which is nice when working with WB finishes for cleanup.
I know that my lumber storage area seems to expand outward from the wall. That might become an issue if it blocks the bathroom door.
I like the doors on both ends. You could get a nice breeze going thru there on a nice spring day!

[Mark Singer]

This is basically a great layout and similar to mine. Couple of small ideas...move the TS down to align with the doors as mentioned. Move the bandsaw and angle it so the doors and provde infeed for resawing lor ripping long boards. Increase the length of the tablsaw out feed table, so a full 8 foot sheet is supported after the cut

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Very nice plans Gary!! I can't wait to watch the progress.

[Andy Hoyt]

I agree with almost everything already said, so I'll touch on something no one else has.

The lathe and your grinder need to be in close proximity to one another.

And I'd slide the lathe away from both walls a bit, getting it out of the corner. In a perfect world you'd want to be able to walk all the way around it.

[Mark Singer]

One other thing.....I really like the workbench away from the wall and more central in the shop. It is great to be able to work around a piece on all sides. Or support a large element that hangs over the bench...Just using the front vise to hold a panel and apply trim amd walk around and check it is really great!

[Bob Swenson]

Gary, I don't know how high you are going to go but I see a lot of storage space over the finishing room and the storage room. I would put a window in the storage room, move in the desk and fridge. make a dust free office out it. put in a door to the John, keep that dust free too. Put a slop sink in the finishing room and a computer in the office to run the CarveWright,turn up the music and enjoy.

[Gary Stallings]

Once again.......thanks for all the great input. I did like and incorporate many of the ideas. So anyway.........here's the latest of what I have come up with.

1. I'm scrubbing the 3-phase power idea....not available for me in my area anyway.
2. Check out the TS location now. I rotated it 90 degrees and lengthed the outfeed table. I believe I still have enough room for long boards/plywood etc. and space around the saw to maneuver. Anyone see an issue with it?
3. Not sure why I need to move the workbench as in some comments. Most of my work and assembly will be done on at the assembly table that will also have wood vices on some of the sides.
4. I'm not an expert on the lathe but have done a few projects that turned out well. I've always worked from one side with the lathe up against the wall. Why might I need access to walk around it?
5. I have thought of placing more storage for lumber over the finishing and storage room, kind of in a loft type configuration but I had trouble finding a way to access it well. Any thought here would be appreciated. Also I have considered storing lumber outside under the coverd portion of the shed roofs but I am concerned about moisture. Any thoughts there?

Here is the latest cut.......one day I'll put the elevations to scale...






Wish I had more time to swim the creek but my weekends are so jammed I have less time then than on my lunch break.

[Larry Browning]

Gary,
I know that someone suggested you to enlarge the TS outfeed table so that it would support a sheet of plywood after the cut. My outfeed table is 42" wide which makes it is a little over 54" past the back side of the blade. This is more than enough to support a full sheet of plywood. You have yours a full 8ft past the end of the saw table. I am thinking that by making the outfeed table so large you may not be able to reach some of the cutoffs from the saw and it will be taking up too much floor space.
I like the workbench away from the wall because it allows me to work on all sides of the bench, it also allows stuff to hang over all side of the workbench .
Now I know that you really like the size of your assembly table. It looks to me like you have it 11X11. Wow! that's the size of a small bedroom. Have you considered what you will do when a screwdriver or a table leg gets into the middle of the table? You won't be able to reach it. You will have to get a broom handle or something to drag it over to you. Maybe, you could make 2 tables and have one on wheels so that you could put them together to make one big table, but also have it so that you could at least reach half way across it if necessary. Or to pull them apart to look for that set screw you dropped on the floor.

I like the idea of adding the sink to the finishing room. That solves the problem of it not connecting to the bathroom.

[Frank Pellow]

Gary, I still like your BIG assembly table. I like it even better with the vices you mention. Maybe there should even be some dog holes. For the problem mentioned by Larry, you might consider a small open area in the middle that one could crawl too. Perhaps it should have a trap door. I envision this as being something like some people do with their large model train tables.

I like the idea of a loft. How much headroom do you envision. You could build a ladder into one wall for access -and maybe install a fold down "attic" type stair for easier access.

I always thought that the open covered area outside was to be used for lumber storage. I would keep lumber their them bring it into the shop a couple of weeks before I wanted to work with it.