Radial Arm Saw

[Mike Sarasin]

I had a radial arm many years ago, a Sears 9" model. Not many of those were sold I hear. Recently I bought a 10" saw, same 1970's vintage. When I crosscut a board, I don't recall that the blade wanted to pull its way through the board so quickly. The way it is I have to put pressure on the carraige so rather than pulling thru the board I'm trying to stop it from overtaking the cut. It doesn't seem right and frankly dangerous. I thought at first I had the blade on the opposite way, but based on magazine pictures I don't think that's it. The teeth point forward and down. Am I doing something wrong? Help and advise would be really appreciated, until then I think I'll keep this old saw under wraps. Thanks. Mike

[Don Baer]

Mike,
Welcome to the creek. I don't use a RAS, I did a long time ago for a project so I can't realy anwer you question but I am sure someone will come along and do it.

[Andy Haney]

Welcome. Not sure this answer applies to your situation, or is correctly stated, for that matter, but I think you should be using a blade that has a negative hook (or rake angle) in a RAS. That may help your situation, if you're not already using one.

There seems to be a lot of criticism and fear of these units, but the only thing that scared me was the ONLY time I tried to use it to "rip" a piece of wood. Once should be enough of that for anyone!

Andy Haney

[David Eisenhauer]

That is a fairly typical reaction for new RAS users first using a RAS equipped with a more agressive cutting blade. As already mentioned, RAS prefer using a negative 5 deg hook angle blade. Problem - perhaps due the drop in the popularity of the RAS in general, those blades are not as easy to find as other type blades and are not usually "on sale" as often as others. I use a Freud blade on mine (don't remeber which) and it works fine. I also believe you may experience the blade trying to "climb cut" on thicker hardwood stuff more so than on other woods. That is just a subjective feeling, no data to back that up. I do "push back" on my saw when making those type cuts. I have used a RAS for many years and wouldn't like to give it up. If you get yours set up right, it should be a good addition to the arsenal. Best of luck.

[Jim Becker]

Mike, welcome to SMC!

The blade information already given is important, but be sure you also check the recall notices...a whole lot of Sears RAS were recalled for safety reasons. For some percentage of them, there is a retrofit kit available. For others...they suggest you decommission them. It's model specific.

[Ron Jones near Indy]

Welcome to the Creek Mike! I feel sure you will like things here. The advise about switching to a negative hook blade is quite good. You will, I'm sure, see (feel) and big difference. If you go with the Freud blade, I imagine you will see an improvement immediately. I'm sure you can find the Freud blades on Amazon.

[Mike Sarasin]

Thanks to everyone for the advise and the welcome. I'll see if I can get a negative hook blade. Thanks again

[Howard Acheson]

If you just got this saw, let me suggest you go through a complete alignment process. Your manual will give you the steps and details.

It's also important that you use a sharp blade on your saw and the newer negative hook miter saw blades work well also.

[peter leyden]

Hi, Mike,
The other replies to you question about your RAS are right. You should be using a blade with a negative hook or rake angle to tame your saw . I recently bought just such a blade and the difference it made on my saw was amazing. If you check "woodnet forums", there is a post about Leitz blades cheap. the date of the post was 02/05/06. the blade I got was"Leitz Pro Series opticut 10" z80 neg hook ATB, 5/8 bore". The blade was $29 and worth every penny. E-mail Mike and he'll give you all the details.
Pete Leyden

[CPeter James]

From what you say, that is a $100 saw-that is what Emerson Electric will pay for the motor and carriage. Check out the link below for the rebate or upgrade information.

http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/index2.htm

CPeter

[Basil Rathbone]

Hi Mike, you didn't say what kind of saw you have now, but in any case, if you search for Jon Eakes' book "How to Fine tune your Radial Arm Saw" you will learn a lot about how to adjust it whether it is a Sears, Rockwell or DeWalt.

If it is a Dewalt, Mr. Sawdust (Wally Kunkel) has a classic book "How to Master the Radial Saw" which besides being a general reference for Dewalts, also shows what a well tuned RAS can do.

Enjoy.

[Bill Fields]

I've had 3 RAS saws--a DeWalt and 2 Craftsman/Emersons. WHile they all had their problems--DeWalt underpowerd--first Craftsman OK--current 12" C'Man Ok--there is a technicue associated with ALL operations of this type of saw. The blade choice, as mentioned, is important.

Technicue on ripping is vital to your health.. THe blade guard/anti-kickback pawls must be set carefully and accurately. This is often a 2 0r 3 part operation. Lots of trouble, but if it's WRONG, you are likely in for a bad surprise.

Crosscuts. especeially, with dado blades are best accomplished with a slow/resitent pressure.

THis is an "early-day" do-everything tool. It still is a great tool for doing some things that others struggle with--example: Precise matching dadoes for bookshelves that have to be cross-cut simultaneously.

Don't use my big 12" C'man RAS saw much, but if I were producing framing/girders for new house contruction--on-site--that might be my first choice.

Great tool--badly maligned by those who never took the time to learn it.

BILL

[Rick Thom]

I also have one of these requiring some action. Over the (many) years it's done a lot of work but fallen into disuse when the table saw arrived. I have quite a few accessories for it and used them all. It has needed adjustment for a long time but used to work ok. I don't see any reason why, if repaired and properly aligned, it wouldn't perform as well as a csms for cross cutting and do more, like dados. Maybe leave the ripping to TS and molding to router table.
I will have to look at my blades to ensure they are the right ones. Paid a 'ton' for them long ago, maybe b4 the importance of the blade design was understood.
Thanks for the info.

[Hank Knight]

Mike, I have an old Rockwell 9" RAS I use every day (or at least every day I'm in the shop) for cross cutting and dadoes. I particularly like it for cutting tenon shoulders. I don't use it for ripping or any of those other insane-looking applications you see in the books. I wouldn't get rid of it for anything. I use a 9" Forest Woodworker I blade. It is designed for radial arm and miter saws and has a moderate negative hook. It gives glassy smooth results. I occasionally experience an aggressive climb cut, especially on thick hardwood, but once you get used to the saw, you shouldn't have a problem with it.

[Bill White]

My 1978 C'man RAS in the mainstay in my shop. I also use a miter saw (duh), but I actually rip, crosscut, dado, miter with mine. To be honest, and since I learned on the RAS, the table saw scares my to death.
Follow the blade suggestions as above, (I use Freud thin kerf blades) set the saw up properly, check for alignment, pull thru on a cut with a stiff arm, use anti-kickback devices (I use Board Buddies), and a big dose of common sense.
Bill