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Thread: delta bandsaw riser block

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    delta bandsaw riser block

    I bought the 14 inch delta BS at a price i couldn't pass up and also the riser. I'm looking for any good ideas on removing the really large diameter bolt that holds the two pieces of the BS together, and then any idea on torque settings for the new bolt, also if using something like loctite on this bolt is needed. Thanks for any input.

  2. #2
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    It's been quite a few years since I put a riser block on my previous Jet 14" BS. I'm pretty sure the Jet and Delta bolt/frame arrangement is pretty similar if not the same. I don't think there was room to get a socket wrench on anything due to the bolt being recessed in the frame. I think I had to use one or two open-end or box-end wrenches to remove the bolt. The biggest hassle with putting on a riser block is that there's probably powdercoat paint on both ends of the block. You'll probably need to scrape away that paint to get the block to mate up correctly with the frame ends. I know I didn't use any loctite when I installed the new block & bolt. I never noticed any problem with anything becoming loose by the time I sold the saw last fall. Don't know what torque setting you'd need, but is there even room to get a torque wrench onto it anyway?
    Use the fence Luke

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
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    Oak View, CA
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    When I put my riser block on about 10 years ago, a neighbor friend lent me two gigantic open end wrenches so that I could remove an amazingly large bolt. I installed the riser with these wrenches pulling them tight (but not over tight). The block has remained in place since. I would not use loctite if I were you. The problem is where to borrow those large wrenches.

  4. #4
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    Doug's advise to scrape of the paint on the mating surfaces is very important to get good alignment...even a little bit off will amplify over the size of the machine.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
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    I'd bet $$ it's the same as a Grizzly 1019Z. If so, it's a 5/8" bolt/nut, but I suspect the wrench size is metric. You can use an SAE 15/16" box end wrench, the fit is a tad sloppy, but it will work. A bolt that size is tough enough that you won't twist it, so put the beef to it and never mind a torque wrench. It uses a lock washer, so no need for lock-tite either.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Swart
    I'd bet $$ it's the same as a Grizzly 1019Z. If so, it's a 5/8" bolt/nut, but I suspect the wrench size is metric. You can use an SAE 15/16" box end wrench, the fit is a tad sloppy, but it will work.
    You'd lose that bet: it's a 30mm wrench...looks more like a 3/4" bolt (M18 maybe?). A socket will fit over the nut, but the bolt needs a box-end wrench because of the casting webs around it: socket is too tall, open-end is too wide.
    Yoga class makes me feel like a total stud, mostly because I'm about as flexible as a 2x4.
    "Design"? Possibly. "Intelligent"? Sure doesn't look like it from this angle.
    We used to be hunter gatherers. Now we're shopper borrowers.
    The three most important words in the English language: "Front Towards Enemy".
    The world makes a lot more sense when you remember that Butthead was the smart one.
    You can never be too rich, too thin, or have too much ammo.

  7. #7
    If I remember right you need a 1 1/4 and 1 1/8 open/box wrench. Not a lot of room to spin.

    The top is a little cumbersome to handle alone.

  8. #8
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    I bought a 30mm short socket for <$7 to use on the nut and I think I wedged a handle of a crescent wrench between the frame and the head of the bolt to keep it from turning. It didn't take much pressure to keep the bolt from turning. It worked just fine for me. You only have to tighten the nut until the split washer collapses.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cary Falk
    I bought a 30mm short socket for <$7 to use on the nut and I think I wedged a handle of a crescent wrench between the frame and the head of the bolt to keep it from turning. It didn't take much pressure to keep the bolt from turning. It worked just fine for me. You only have to tighten the nut until the split washer collapses.
    I'll have to remember that trick when I get around to buying/installing mine: I'd hate to have to buy a 30mm box-end wrench for a one-time job. (Only reason I even have a 30mm socket is that it was the axle nut size on my last motorcycle.)

    And yes, both bolt and nut need a 30mm: I just put the calipers on them, both are a tick over 1.17". Did anybody come up with a required torque value?
    Yoga class makes me feel like a total stud, mostly because I'm about as flexible as a 2x4.
    "Design"? Possibly. "Intelligent"? Sure doesn't look like it from this angle.
    We used to be hunter gatherers. Now we're shopper borrowers.
    The three most important words in the English language: "Front Towards Enemy".
    The world makes a lot more sense when you remember that Butthead was the smart one.
    You can never be too rich, too thin, or have too much ammo.

  10. #10
    I don't remember the size of the bolt and nut on my Shop Fox, but I did have to borrow a large box end wrench from the Snap-On salesman across the street. I already had an Aggie socket set (Crescent wrench) that fit one of the two. As far as touque, I was in the same frame of mind as Gary...I just cranked down on it till it seemed tight.

    - Vaughn

  11. #11
    I spent $13 on cheap 1 1/4" and 1 1/8" open end wrenches to install the riser block on my Delta X5, 14". My block was milled on the ends with no paint so it was just wipe it down and stick it in.
    The installation went very easy. The block has locator pins that turned out to be right on the money. After assembling, I checked the alignment of the wheels, found no problems (I never ran the saw without the block) and it has performed fine ever since.
    "Because There Is Always More To Learn"

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Tallahassee, FL
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    71

    delta bandsaw thanks

    thanks for all the input. I found a 1 1/4 socket on a 1/2 in drive breaker bar that fit the nut and used an adjustable wrench on bolt. Everything went together smoothly (no painted surfaces) and I just tightened until the flat washer started to deform.

    I installed on unassembled bandsaw (not on base) and highly recommend this to anyone as the saw is on the floor and easy to break apart, then the bottom 1/2 is lighter to lift onto base, the top 1/2 is still ungainly but I only had to move it once.

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