Unisaw Blade Guard - Which One??

[Kevin Herber]

Last week I had a scare with my Unisaw. I was going to post a heads up but decided to let it ride, then I read Dave Walker's story. Dave got hurt far worse than me. If you saw my cut you would swear I have a Saw Stop. The angels were certainly watching over me. Lots of blood but no stitches. I raked my finger over the blade when reaching to turn off the saw after a cut. Barely nicked my finger but it could have been MUCH worse....

Anyway, that scared the you-know-what out of me. I've decided to get a good guard and splitter. Now the problem is which one. I've been reading about the main players - Biesemeyer, Excalibur, Brett, Delta and the Shark. I could use all the input I can get. What types do you have? What do you like? Especially, what do you NOT like?

I'm going to spend what it takes. No matter what it costs, it's still cheaper than an evening in the ER.

I've not had good luck with searching the forum so I'm turning to a new thread. Thanks in advance.

[Warren White]

Kevin
I admire your determination not to get hurt. You will probably get a lot of replies about the importance of practicing safe working habits in addition to using those safety-related items that make the saw a safer piece of equipment.

That said, I have a Delta Uniguard. I bought it as an addition to my Unisaw, because the one that came with it wasn't much to write home about. I bought it after watching Kelly Mehler's video on table saw safety. He uses the Brett Guard in the video I saw, and it looks very good. I just opted for the Uniguard.

I must admit that I don't use it much. I think there have been threads posted in the past that indicate some feel that while they keep you from doing what you did, they get in the way for quite a few operations. For example, I am uncomfortable using a push stick next to the guard on cuts that are a small distance from the fence. I also like to be able to see what is going on, and the guard obstructs my view some of the time. I do like the split guard feature of the Uniguard.

I want to be clear that I don't recommend my course of action relative to the blade guard. Whatever you can do to increase the safety of your table saw operation is vital. For me, that includes all of the things we have heard many times over; not working tired, frustrated, hurried, distracted; thinking things through, and listening to that still small voice when it says "don't do that!"

One thing that I never do is to make a through cut without using the Delta splitter. Never, never, never. I had one kick-back that made me a believer, and right after that I bought the Delta Splitter that attaches to the rear trunion (?). It is removeable by loosening a knob (after removing the insert). They also make one that you can pull up or push down, but it was a bit pricey as I recall.

Good luck and be safe.

Best wishes,
Warren White

[Jim DeLaney]

I have, and use, the Delta Uniguard. Prior to that, I had a Brett guard - the one that mounts to the table, not the overhead one. I found that I had the Brett off the saw more often than on it.

With the Uniguard, It's on all the time. I particularly like being able to lift it out of the way for blade changes, etc. Also, since it's a 'split' design, I can make a very narrow rip by lifting one side of it to get the fence close to the blade, and still have the other side down for protection.

Oh, BTW, I also religeously use the Delta splitter that comes with the Uniguard.

[John Gornall]

After 30 plus years with no guard, last year I decided to get a guard. After looking at many types I choose the Uniguard. I like the ease of moving it side to side, flipping it out of the way, removing it completely when needed, and using half of it near the fence. When I bought it I wondered if I would actually use it long term. I have become comfortable with it and use it for most cuts. Installation on my Unisaw took about 15 minutes. I had all ready bought the splitter which comes with it so I took the pawls off the new one and now have two splitters, one with and one without pawls depending on the cut.

[CPeter James]

I have the Exactor overarm blade guard and use all the time except when cutting a panel on its side and it is over 10" high. I use a homemade splitter the is .005 thicker than the blade and that works real good for me. http://www.exaktortools.com/index2.htm

CPeter

[Chris Fite]

I used the Beise overarm guard on my Delta. Adjustable side to side, easy to lift and to lower. Good way to mount additional dust collection, too. Worked great with Board Buddies.

[Don Frambach]

I have the Excalibur guard and like it very much. I leave the guard on the saw all the time. I can push it to the side for tall work when necessary. Perhaps the other guards have this feature too so it may not be a big deal.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Kevin,
I have a homemade overarm blade guard. But it was predominantly built for dust extraction reasons. I also use a splitter, but this device protects against kickback, and would have done nothing in your 'close call' situation were you accidentally brushed the blade.

An overarm guard, either attached to your saw or ceiling, will protect you from thru cuts and non thru cuts (dados). However, a splitter mounted guard will not work for the non thru cuts and tends to take a little longer to remove and install. However, there are times when either type of guard must be moved out of the way for functions like ripping narrow and short stock with Grrippers or push sticks, raising panels or making tenons. I would best guess this happens about 25% of the time for me.

If you do decide on a new guard, I do suggest having one with dust collection capability with a 3" or 4" dia hose if hooked to your shop's dust collection system. Anything smaller should probably have a dedicated shop vac hooked to it. Also, make sure it quickly moves out of the way when needed, and reinstalls easily. Also, if you go ceiling mount, remember that your saw will no longer be easily mobile, and the ceiling support may interfere with swinging large boards around in your shop.

An emergency stop switch activated by the knee is a good idea even for routine stopping of the saw. This is something I've been meaning to install on my saw for some time now. I bet this device alone would have save you some scare because your eyes stay on the rotating blade versus searching and reaching for the off button.

-Jeff

[Jim Becker]

I use the Biesemeyer snap-in splitter and the Excalibur overarm guard. (Review on my site) The splitter gets used 100% of the time that it can be used. The guard...doesn't, but I like having it available for certain situations, especially when the added dust collection keeps material splashing off the top of the blade off my face.

[Larry Fox]

Like Jim, I use the Biesemeyer snap-in splitter but I use a Biesemeyer over-arm blade guard. Also like Jim, the splitter gets used 100% of the time that it can be used. The guard...doesn't. I find that it is great when cutting wide things like sheet goods but for the narrower stuff it is sometimes in the way. I am convinced that anything that gets in the way or otherwise frustrates the movement of the work piece contributes to yor risk factor so there are times when the guard doesn't get used - for safety reasons. :-/

[Mike Kelly]

Like Jim I use the Beis splitter with Excaliber guard. Love it. Here is a previous post on installing the Excaliber. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=17135.

[Allen Bookout]

I built this one and really like it. Cheap and fast to build. Works great. I made the guard out of lexan instead of wood. The swing open arm gets it out of the way when necessary. I would prefer a stationary saw with the guard supported from above to any of these set ups. I use the Delta removable splitter and it works good. The Biesemeyer snap in would be first class of course. Allen

[Matt Meiser]

I have the Biesemeyer guard and Delta splitter. I like that the guard is substantial and easily adjustable. The dust collection with the added accessory works pretty well when connected to a small shop vac (I have one dedicated for the purpose, wired to start with my saw). The Delta splitter works well. I ended up modifying mine by removing the AK pawls and shortening the height to allow me to use my GRR-Rippers without removing the splitter. They do require moving the guard out of the way. The other modification I made to the guard was to remove the threaded rod that moves the guard left-right. I'm not really sure why they have it as there is also a locking knob. With the rod removed, I can easily slide the guard side to side and relock it without having to move from the front of the saw.

[Rob Blaustein]

Like Jim, Larry, and Mike, I use the Bies splitter and Excalibur guard and love them. I have the newer version of the Excalibur and it is very easy to pivot away when not in use. Although it is tricky, I have been able to keep it in place for narrow rips by 1) moving it away from the fence, 2) using Griptite magnetic hold-downs on the fence, and 3) using a narrow push stick. I have to say that since installing the splitter and guard my emotional (it's much safer) and physical comfort (better dust collection) are much improved.

[Ben Reese]

Kevin, the same thing happened to me in '65. Lost the end of one finger and cut into another. I have tried the guard on my Jet saw and finally left it off because it rattled and was in the way. I am restoring a 1973 Unisaw that I bought for $300 and came accross a splitter that I am definetly going to make and try for it. Cheap, easy and should solve the problem that you and I have experienced. I will cut a slot in the bottom of mine for easy removal rather than a hole though. Go to The Woodshop.com or do a search for how to make a splitter and they should be the first link up. I am new to this sight and don't know how or if you can post pictures or I would do that for you. Good luck.