Old Geezers and Others Goblet Contest Entries.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Okay folks........I've been practicing for this and I wanted to try a new finish ..........and try finishing some cherry. I showed the LOML this and she why aren't you entering it.........I said .......it's just a trial run....an experiment..........SWMBO said "enter it"..........Well one of the few rules was multiple entries allowed........so here it is............cherry goblet..sides of the cup portion 0.180" thick ...finished with BLO and friction polish ....buffed with the beal buffing system. A bunch of firsts on this including my first friction chuck.

[John Hart]

That's a pretty Lil' cup Mr Fitzgerald! So....What's the finish? How big is it?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

It's 5" tall by 2 3/8" ..........Finish is John Hart's BLO friction finish.....buffed with the Beal buffing system.

[Andy Hoyt]

Good one, Ken. So how thick is the stem? Did'ja go for 1/4" again?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

You know Andy....I really didn't measure it. I was mainly trying to speed up the drying process of green wood. My oldest son came over to visit his Mom last night. When he went outside to have a cigarette, I took him to the shop and turned down a 4" square piece to a 4" round piece so he could see me "shoot curlies". It was still in the lathe this morning and I decided to try another goblet. I was working on getting thinner walls and decided to finish turn it and try microwaving it to reduce the moisture. I had another totally unfinished one very similar in size and shape but not as refined as this one. I did it yesterday and I thought I could nuke this one and compare the warpage against the one I did yesterday. It was amazing that after a couple of "defrost" cycles, this one had a lot more warpage than the one I turned yesterday. So I took it back to the lathe, using the remnant of it, I turned a friction chuck for this one and mounted it between the friction chuck and tailstock and returned it. Then I thought hey....this things lost about 10 grams in moisture....let's see if it'll take a finish.....I had some old BLO....I put a coat on and friction polished it with a paper towel...Then a 2nd coat and repeat the heat.....Then a coat of friction polish....and the Beal buffing system. So I really wasn't paying attention to the size of the stem but I'd bet it's close. I'll measure it later. I need to run a couple of errands for Sharon right now.

[Mike Ramsey]

Ken that is a very nice goblet! Good looking form & finish!

[Steve Ash]

Nice looking stuff being entered here from you guys. I have much to learn.

[Curt Fuller]

Apple wood goblet. 7" tall, 2 3/16" at the widest part of the cup, and the stem 3/16" at the narrow spot. That 'design opportunity' in the center of the cup is really a screw up from trying to adjust the tool rest with the lathe running. It slid into the cup making a divot. This is finished with some Hut friction polish. Apple is nice wood for something like this. It turns like butter.

[Curt Fuller]

First entry, actually first time i've made a goblet, on purpose anyway!
I made this out of the same Mesquite log that I made my bonker from.
I also made it to match my bonker, actually it's heavy enough to use as a
bonker, get drunk and use it to bonk anyone that p$$es you off!
Yep you guessed it! It's a Bonker Goblet!

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I believe they call that a tankard!

[doug webb]

Too long in microwave?




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[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Too long in microwave?




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Heck it looks like it is glowing already

I guess it depends on the size of your nuker.

Ken, nic job, better than my little pine egg cup,

Curt, Apple wood is sure nice, love that stuff, nice looking goblet too!

Cheers!

[Barry Stratton]

Okay, this is NOT my entry, but thought I'd post a practice "goblet" to give you all a chuckle and make Curt's apple one look even better......No finish, no sanding, just raw canarywood.

Having trouble getting the hang of this with it screwed to faceplate (chuck is in the mail.....) Also, kept popping off the jamb thingy when I tried to work on the bottom. Even bounced of the floor a time or two.

I will get a decent one entered........ I think..... Thinner stem, slimmer foot..... This is fun.
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[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Okay, this is NOT my entry, but thought I'd post a practice "goblet" to give you all a chuckle and make Curt's apple one look even better......No finish, no sanding, just raw canarywood.

Having trouble getting the hang of this with it screwed to faceplate (chuck is in the mail.....) Also, kept popping off the jamb thingy when I tried to work on the bottom. Even bounced of the floor a time or two.

I will get a decent one entered........ I think..... Thinner stem, slimmer foot..... This is fun.
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Looking good so far Barry, what the heck is Canary wood?

SWMBO let you bring that into the house and put it on the sofa...?

Mine are not good enough to get into the big house..... yet

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Barry.........Yours looks about like the one I used for comparison when I nuked the one I posted. How are you attaching yours to the faceplate? I'd attach the end that is going to be the base of the goblet and make the blank a couple of inches longer than the planned goblet. I'd first rough turn the blank to widest dimension. Then, turn the cup area, roughly size the exterior and then work on sizing the interior. After you get the interior of the cup sized and shaped, go ahead and finish it...sand it.....friction polish it.....it's done. Then work on finish turning the ouside of the cup area and the immediate area below the cup .....say the 1st inch below the cup. This leaves a lot of meat to keep the stem part steady, reducing vibration. After you get the outside of the cup area finished shaped to the interior (wall thickness and shape) size the base and use your parting tool to make a cut that marks where you are going to cut off below the base. Make this cut just slightly deeper than the finished size of the base, so you can properly size the base. Now remove the excess from the stem while shaping the swell between the base and the stem. After you get the stem finish sized, resize as necessary the base and reshape the swell going into the stem as necessary. Using your parting tool, return to the proposed cutoff area and cut it down to say an inch in diameter. I usually make this cutoff area about 2-3 widths of the parting tool and angle the cutoff line just slightly into the base so the bottom of the base is slightly concave. Now sand the exterior of the entire goblet and finish if you are using a friction finish. If you made the cutoff area wide enough you can finish part of the bottom at this time too. Next with the lathe running, reach around the head stock with one hand and "cup" the goblet with that hand and using the parting tool with the other (right hand) finish parting the goblet from the excess. You should end up with about a 1 inch area that you have to sand and finish off the lathe.

I agree these are a kick in the pants to do! I learned a lot about back scraping using my spindle gouge....about rapid plunge cutting endgrain using the round nose scraper to set side wall thickness.....about using the spindle gouge in conjunction with the skew to set exrtremely fine detail......Great learning experience!

Good luck! and Enjoy!

[Ron Ainge]

Here is my first entry into the goblet contest. As you can see the height is about 4 3/4 inshes tall and the cup is about 1 inch wide. The stem is just less than 1/8 inches wide at the base of the cup. It is made of apple and just has a sanding sealer on it now. I hope you like it, if not please tell me what you don'tlike so I can improve on the next one. This one got a bit scarry toward the last because the cup started to flex and I did not think that I was going to get it finished before it broke.