Learning to use a laser...

[David Sparks]

I don't have a laser yet, but I would like to learn some of the skills I will need to use a laser. Is there a way to do this? I have Coreldraw 11. I'd like to be able to learn how to vectorize scroll saw patterns in particular. Will I be able to tell if I'm getting patterns laser ready if all I have is a printer hooked to my computer? I plan on getting a laser within a year, but I would like to be able to produce items as quickly as possible after getting it. My wife isn't convinced that I can make money with the laser. I disagree. I already have a small business producing scrollsawn Christmas ornaments. The work is very labor intensive. I have a good market for my products now. My main limiting factor is the time it takes to cut out the ornaments. Thank you for your help.

[Joe Pelonio]

Witha good customer base already you are right, the laser will save tremendous amounts of time. You can be assembling while it's doing the cutting for you. It is a large investment but payback time will be helped by the additional volume you'll be producing.

Look at vector cutting as printing outlines. You can tell if you print something on your inkjet and it's just outlines. If you already have Corel 11 you can practice and learn a lot ahead of time but you might need to consider upgrading to 12 or X3 when you buy the laser.

If there's another Creek laser owner in your area they might be willing to get you started with a quick couple of hours help.

[Mark Plotkin]

David,

Get in touch with a couple of reps in your area for lasers. Take one of your patterns to them an have them convert and cut it for you. Time how long it takes to saw as compared to vector cut. My guess is you will run to get your checkbook out!
MP

[Shaddy Dedmore]

This one takes about 4 minutes, under 5 at least. It's the most complex one I make, all the others take less time. the 1/16 ply I got from Laserbits is no longer sold so I'll have to find a new medium, so thicker wood may cause me to slow down the laser (more time to cut out).

I charge $5 each, then lower the price for quantity. But if I ONLY sold these complex ones, I'd have to charge more because they take too long to cut out. FIgure at least $1 per minute of laser time, then double ot triple the materials.

Get a CD from Berry Basket and import the PDF from it into Corel, it's already in Vector format.

From Delvies Plastics (or other places) you can get a 1/16" white acrylic and you can pick out snowflake looking ornaments. Also use other acrylics and make window decorations (not just for Christmas any more).

Shaddy

[Lee DeRaud]

This one takes about 4 minutes, under 5 at least. It's the most complex one I make, all the others take less time. the 1/16 ply I got from Laserbits is no longer sold so I'll have to find a new medium, so thicker wood may cause me to slow down the laser (more time to cut out).

Shaddy, keep me informed when you find it: the hobby-store stuff I use comes in 1/64 to 1/2 (or metric equivalent), but, for no apparent reason, not 1/16.

[Bob Tate]

You guys really should try Sloans Woodshop

http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/plywoods.htm

He has quality wood (even 1/32 and 1/16) and really good prices and service. NO, I do not work there, I have been buying from him for many years.

[Barbara Sample]

Hello Shaddy,
I ordered some cherry wood that Sloan's had on sale, and it's nice, but it's 1/8 thick.
I am trying to make some dog magenets out of it, and when I cut it, it is burning on the edges making some flame marks on the front edges, and also makes the edges very dark. When I use lower powers it doesn't cut thorugh it.
Any suggestions for settings on a 30W laser?
I am using 5speed and 80 power right now. I have tried a few other settings and it just burns it. It cuts it though in two passes.
I tried 1.5 speed and 100 power.
Since you are a pro at this, do you have any better ideas.
I guess I could just keep cutting a few times, but it kindof takes away from the fact that this is just a magnet and is a lower dollar item. If it takes too long to cut then it really isn't worth it for me. I just wanted to use the wood I have without ordering some thinner stuff.
Barb

[Dennis Perry]

Barbra,
What is your PPI setting, I use 200 ppi, 100 power, 5 speed on a 100 watt laser on 1/4 ply does very good. The lower the ppi the less burning. If you can get a mdf core plywood it leaves a very nice edge no burning at all don't use a partical board core. I checked out your website very nice work. If you not mind what software are you using on stone, your work looks great.

Dennis

[Joe Pelonio]

Barbara,

Also you could try doing your rastor first, then apply transfer tape and mist it with water before cutting. Helps keep the edges cooler and protects the surface from the burn marks - up to a point.

[David Sparks]

I appreciate all the responses. You all are very helpful, and this forum is outstanding. I'm looking forward to getting a laser.

[David Sparks]

Hi Joe,
What is the advantage of Corel 12 or X3 over Corel 11? Thanks!

David

[Lee DeRaud]

What is the advantage of Corel 12 or X3 over Corel 11?

I never used 11, so I don't know what was new in 12...possibly the 'virtual segment delete' tool. The biggest improvements between 12 and X3 are the greatly improved (and integrated) bitmap tracing functions, and the "Smart Fill" tool. How important these are obviously depends on exactly what kind of work you're doing, but at $159 to download the upgrade, I thought it was worth it...vectorizing existing printed scroll plans definitely benefits from the newer version.

[Joe Pelonio]

Hi Joe,
What is the advantage of Corel 12 or X3 over Corel 11? Thanks!

David

To add to what Lee said, the manufacturer of my laser (Epilog) recommended version 12 because that's what they support and designed the machines for. At the time I only had 5, and 11 was still available for less money than 12 but I don't really know what the differences are either, other than the addition of smart drawing tool. You can draw a rough shape and the program will convert it a clean square or circle. This can save alot of time. I also understand that the "look and feel" didn't
change from 11-12 so you'd be able to make the switch more easily.

When you buy you'd want to ask what your laser manufacturer recommends, though if I were to buy Corel today it would have to be X3 if just for the tracing improvement. I have Adobe Streamline for that but they don't sell it anymore.

[Lee DeRaud]

When you buy you'd want to ask what your laser manufacturer recommends, though if I were to buy Corel today it would have to be X3 if just for the tracing improvement.

Near as I can tell, 11/12/X3 all look alike to printer drivers, which is what most (all?) lasers are pretending to be. The install instructions for my ULS were written for 11, I started with 12, and no changes required for X3.

[Barbara Sample]

Hi Shaddy,
Thank you for the response, and I do not usually change the ppi, I use auto. I will try it though.
Thanks for the compliments on my work. I try. I use corel 12 and photograv. I really love it.
I change a few things as I process, and then go.
I mostly do marble and granite. I also do a lot of acrylic (1 inch thick), with photo's in them. People love them.
Thanks again, I will let you know how I make out.
I will also try the mask and the misting. Thanks to you both.