Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 24 of 24

Thread: Bow UP or DOWN?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Wixom, MI
    Posts
    1,163
    Quote Originally Posted by Kent A Bathurst View Post
    Yeah - "horns down".

    Also - you probably already took care of this - but, you're better off if you rough-cut the boards before jointing. I usually go to 1/2" - 1" or so over finished part length, and 1/4" - 1/2" over width. This reduces the effect of the bow & twist on the overall board thickness as you joint & plane.

    One last caution...after jointing and planing, stand the boards on edge or sticker them. You want air circulation on all faces.

    Laying them flat on a surface like TS will cause them to warp. Or, so I have heard .

    I appreciate all the advice, and continued support of the great folks here are The Creek. I was finally able to improve my technique.....in the NINE YEARS since I first posted this question.
    "Listen, here's the thing. If you can't spot the sucker in the first half hour at the table, then you ARE the sucker. "

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    mid-coast Maine and deep space
    Posts
    2,656
    First off I recommend to everyone who will listen - cross cut every long board to as short as you need + 4" to 6" (depending on how snipe free your thickness planer is). I would rather have 16 door parts at 24" then 32 at at 48" when it comes to the purpose of jointing your stock for flat or straight. More pieces but much less work and much more positive results in the end. Having said that I mostly run the points down with a very light touch ( I don't hold the wood to the jointer bed, I pass it over the cutter knives.) and end for ending as I work the board to get an even full body pass. In some boards you will find that you can only pass over the jointer in one direction or get tear out, but most often these light initial passes to clean the ends is pretty forgiving of end for ending.

    I believe that Mel is correct though - that the convex side should be down for best results, but for me boards that are in that much tension are simply rejected. The most often slightly curved boards get jointed and planed on opposite faces in such away and in so many passes as to relieve all the tension. At least this is how I prefer to work. No rules are set in stone. Lots of this is feeling and the sharpness of the cutters, the ease of the touch as you pass over the jointer and the final use of the wood.
    "... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
    WQJudge

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    6,426
    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Starosta View Post
    I appreciate all the advice, and continued support of the great folks here are The Creek. I was finally able to improve my technique.....in the NINE YEARS since I first posted this question.
    Hey - Keith - I spent >9 years learning this stuff. And, most valuable, learning during those eyars how to correct mistakes on-the-fly, or change designs/dimensions on-the-fly to accommodate the mistakes. In fact - I just finished correcting the odd error on some dining table chairs............

    The really hilarious part - One would think that any given mistake would be made only once.

    But - Nooooooooo.

    Carry on.
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    6,426
    Quote Originally Posted by Jerome Stanek View Post
    I run it through the table saw attached to a straight edge.
    Correct solution. Your condition, however is crook, not bow. Same concept,different orientation.

    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

  5. #20
    I would like to congratulate Mel Fulks for one of the oldest thread resurrections ever! Crown up, points down. Feed just the ends till it's close. Don't press down too hard on the middle.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    mid-coast Maine and deep space
    Posts
    2,656
    I had to laugh. I got sucked in too . Oh well, some newcomers might benefit...
    "... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
    WQJudge

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Red Deer, Alberta
    Posts
    918
    Good advice never goes out of fashion...
    Funny, I don't remember being absent minded...

  8. #23

    The value experience

    The thread is indeed old,but the topic is always current somewhere.I had worked in custom architectural woodwork about 8 years when I was assigned a job working with Albert,the older lead shop guy,his father had worked there too.I had to make some vertical louvre slats about10 feet long which had to be straight.I looked thru the the pile and determined we did not have enough appropriate wood. When I informed him he went thru and picked 8 or 10 more pcs with a long even bow. He told me to face them convex side down and BOTH sides would start to straighten. News to me. It worked and I have been using that technique, and winning bets with it, for 30 some years. Thanks Albert.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Beantown
    Posts
    2,831
    Nine years may be about right to feel comfortable enough to try a new technique

    I started out using the points down method for several years. Finally having heard the benefits to crown down enough I tried it and have never gone back. A bit more difficult to control stock though, especially for beginners. When I have to teach a new employee I teach them crown up as it's easier for them to handle. Of course then I have to run the 'important' parts myself

    good luck,
    JeffD

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •