Router plate insert template and cutting bit

[Jerry Crawford]

I'm debating about ordering the Woodcraft Unilift but agrivated about having to also spend another $35 for a tremplate and router bit to cut the plate into the table. Anyone like to get some of their money back on theirs I'll talk.

[Jamie Buxton]

Perhaps you mean Woodpecker, not Woodcraft?

If so, you shouldn't need to buy their template and bit. You just need to machine a rectangular hole in your table. You can make your own template, and perhaps use some other bit you already own.

They use a top-bearing pattern bit. That's fine, and if you have one, you can use it. If you don't, you could buy one from somebody else. For instance, my local Woodcraft is selling a top-bearing pattern bit on sale for $5 this week. Another possibility is to use a straight bit and template guide, if you have those.

You can make a template by fastening four straight pieces of anything together.

Me, I make templates with rectangular holes on the table saw. I fully retract the blade, place the workpiece (I like MDF -- cheap, and easy to machine.) firmly against the fence, brace it so that it won't kick back at me, and slowly plunge-cut the blade up through the workpiece. I'm sure that this procedure will trouble some readers on this forum, but it has worked for me for about 30 years now. If you find it too worrisome, then use the fasten-four-sticks-together approach, or something similar.

[Jerry Crawford]

Good suggestions Jamie - Thank you

How do you account for the lip on the inside of the cutout for the plate to rest on?

[Don Baer]

When I made the cutout for my router plate I just clamped some strieght edges to the table and use a streight 3/8" bit to cut the the inset for the plate. That was after I made a slightly smaller cutout with a scroll saw.

Took all of ten minutes.

[Jim Dunn]

Jerry just don't route all the way through the top. You'll need to leave the lip thickness such that the plate for the lift is smooth with the top.

[Vaughn McMillan]

The first time I made a router table top, I just clamped straight boards to the table top and used them as edge guides for the router with a straight bit. It worked, but it wasn't perfect. (Operator error, I'm sure.) For the next one I made, I took the plunge and bought the Woodpecker template and top-bearing pattern bit. I'm glad I spent the extra money, because the end result was superb. (I'd offer to make you a deal on the template and bit, but I've decided to keep them around for the next RT I build.)

- Vaughn

[Steve Clardy]

I cut the hole out, less 3/8" each side.
Use a 3/8" rabbit bit to make lip.
1/4" will work, but with PB or MDF top, I figured 3/8 was better.

[Jerry Crawford]

OK - you talked me into it. This isn't the first router I've dropped into a TS so maybe the old experience will work for me too. I really do know how to do this - it's just sometimes I need a jolt in the right direction. Thanks gent's