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Thread: Swing Big Bits In Handheld Routing Operation

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    137
    A router bit of this size can be run safely with the proper precautions and a good degree of experience with a router. I would make a router base large enough to rest my left elbow on as I feed the router around the table. Dial the speed down to a slower, more managable cutting rate, and make sure the cutter is razor sharp. The base should be something like 2' x 1', and made of 3/4" baltic birch or mdf with clearance for sight line and dust egress. The router should be heavy duty (3 hp) and as mentioned, variable speed. Figure on routing each edge of the table as a seperate operation, so clamping it securely to the table will be simple. Wear dust mask and hearing protection, and bare hands, please-gloves won't help you here. The base should slide easily across the table surface, and you start the cut about six inches out from the corner closest to you, carefully rounding the far corner in a series of small bites and feathering in to the previous cut that awaits six inches past the corner. And remember, when done with the cut, don't set the thing down until it stops completely; Just stand there holding it a comfortable distance until it stops. Good luck!

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Barton
    Hi Steve,

    I was answering in the spirit of the question that's asking about a 2.5" bit. If we are talking about a 1" roundover or ogee, that's a different manner but would you want to use a 2.5 by hand?

    Sure. Understand. I was talking about a 2.5 bit. I have done it. Will do it again. As above in one of my posts, use a heavy router, oversize sub base.

    Little edit there on the oversize base. Was supposed to be----sub base.

    Now a bit bit tends to sound like a small airplane going over-------
    I'll find a pic of a couple tables I did with a 2.5 bit.
    Last edited by Steve Clardy; 04-14-2006 at 12:11 AM.


  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Griswold Connecticut
    Posts
    6,935
    Personally. I would do it on a table, even if I had to make a table to specifically do that cut. I'm not sure what Steve means by oversize base. I have seen a Table Edge bit in a handheld router used before. This bit is about 3"-3 1/2" in diameter. It was done as follows;

    An oversized base of 3/4" MDF was made for the router There was an approximate 1 " hole pre bored in the center. The router bit was lowered in incremental steps through the MDF until the pilot bearing was exposed. In incremental steps the router was lowered further through the MDF and into the table edge. It created a ZCI of sorts, right at the point that the router bit met the table edge. It also more completely supported the bit and the router. As the router bit was lowered it cut through the MDF, and the table and created the edge.
    I remember watching the guy make what seemed to be at least a 1/2 dozen passes in incremental steps. It also took him about 45 minutes to complete the task.
    The work was being done on an existing built in bar, in a nite club that was being renovated. No way to take the bartop off and do it on a table.
    It can be done. Think the job through completely, and maybe do a practice run or two.
    If it doesn't feel right, don't do it.
    Last edited by Mike Cutler; 04-14-2006 at 12:05 AM.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    In the foothills of the NM Sandia Mountains
    Posts
    16,647
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Giles
    A router bit of this size can be run safely with the proper precautions and a good degree of experience with a router. I would make a router base large enough to rest my left elbow on as I feed the router around the table. Dial the speed down to a slower, more managable cutting rate, and make sure the cutter is razor sharp. The base should be something like 2' x 1', and made of 3/4" baltic birch or mdf with clearance for sight line and dust egress. The router should be heavy duty (3 hp) and as mentioned, variable speed. Figure on routing each edge of the table as a seperate operation, so clamping it securely to the table will be simple. Wear dust mask and hearing protection, and bare hands, please-gloves won't help you here. The base should slide easily across the table surface, and you start the cut about six inches out from the corner closest to you, carefully rounding the far corner in a series of small bites and feathering in to the previous cut that awaits six inches past the corner. And remember, when done with the cut, don't set the thing down until it stops completely; Just stand there holding it a comfortable distance until it stops. Good luck!
    Howard, Chris gives excellent advice. I’ve used large panel bits handheld with my 7539.
    Slower RPM, light cuts and a high awareness of what you’re doing before you do it.
    Please help support the Creek.


    "It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
    Andy Rooney



  5. #20
    howard, in the end, if you feel uncomfortable running a tool, regardless of what that tool is, don`t do it! there are some of us here who do things with routers that most folks shouldn`t do.....use your own common sence and listen to the little voice in your head.....02 tod
    TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN; I ACCEPT FULL LEGAL RESPONSIBILITY FOR MY POSTS ON THIS FORUM, ALL POSTS ARE MADE IN GOOD FAITH CONTAINING FACTUAL INFORMATION AS I KNOW IT.

  6. #21
    I think Tod said it best.

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