Pedestal table

[Jim Tobias]

I have promised a table for my daughter's wedding and she wants a pedestal table to go in a living room between a pair of chairs. I have made 4 legged chairs before but not a pedestal. I think I can turn the pedestal/spindle , etc. but I am not sure as to the best way to attach the pedestal to the top. I assume there is more than one way to accomplish this but Need help wiht the best method. Table top will only be about 2' in diameter. I will start with a 12/4 piece for the pedestal itself and turn to shape. I was thinking 4 legs wiht mortice and tenon attached to 4 side flat area on bottom of pedestal/spindle.
Any experienced pedestal table builders out there?

Thanks,
Jim

[Jamie Buxton]

I've done that sort of thing. I've put horizontal arms at the top of the post, using sliding dovetails to connect them to the post. It is easier to do the joinery if you don't turn the area where the arms connect. However, if you do plan on turning that area, cut the sliding dovetails before you turn the post. That way you have nice reference faces to hold the post while you cut the dovetails.

[Lars Thomas]

Jim, in the last three legged table I made, I drilled a hole 5/8" into the 3/4" top. I cut a tennon on the top of the post and slit it. With a collar and wedge, the top is very sturdy. If you'd like I can take a picture tonight it that would help you.

You can see my 3 legged Cherry Tea Table here: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=861

[Jim Becker]

The Shaker style candle stands I like to make have a flat piece that goes on top of the spindle with a round through tenon and a wedge. The table top fastens to that flat board. The support board goes across the grain of the top and the screw holes are elongated to accommodate wood movement. That board has it's ends tapered to make it less visible and is about two inches shorter than the diameter of the table top...16"/18" respectfully, on the tables I build.

[Jim Tobias]

I was knowledgable about one thing, there are several ways to do this! That's what makes this forum so unbelievably helpful, there are so many experienced woodworkers that have numerous ways to accomplish the same thing and they are all willing to explain it to others. I now have 3 different ways to attach the top to the pedestal.

Thanks,
Jim

[Jim Tobias]

First off, the above picture is not the table that I am amking. Just has similar legs. I took Jamie's advice decided to do sliding dovetails to attach the legs and also for the supports for the top. Made templates for the legs (see shape below) and tried to rout the shape using the template, started to get amjor tear out. Gave up on that and cut even closer to line with bandsaw and use pattern sanding drums. That worked, just slower than using the router. Then I satrted to rout thr sliding dovetails on the router table. I was very careful throoughout but it was shaky at best. The wood kept trying to catch and run out on me. I have used a router table for years, I was going in the right direction, etc. The only thing I can think of is that because I cut the leg material at the (diagonal?) angle that you typically see for legs(with the grain running down the leg), that I was catching some strange grain? This was hinduran mahogany which is usually great to mill and shape. Any ideas or suggestions?? This was a little riskier that I like.

Thanks,
Jim

[Jamie Buxton]

Any ideas or suggestions?? This was a little riskier that I like.

Jim, when I cut structural sliding dovetails like that, they're often 3/4" wide and 3/4" deep. That's way too big to cut in one pass with any kind of bit. I first use a straight bit to hog out the middle of the dovetail. I make several passes with the straight bit to get to the depth I need. With most of the material removed, the dovetail bit only needs to cut the tapered part of the recess, and it generally does it without too much complaint.

[Jim Tobias]

Thanks Jamie. The problem was not with the dovetail slot in the pedestal. I used a straight bit like you described and then the dovetail bit (5/8) and had no problem. That was in the end grain of the pedestal. The problem was cutting away the material to leave the protruding dovetail slider (correct description?). That was where I had the tear out/grabbing problem - in the angled grain of the feet/legs that I made to attach to the pedestal.

Jim

[Jamie Buxton]

Jim --
Yeah, I'm confused about what to call the two parts of a sliding dovetail joint. Let's call the cavity in the post the female side and the part in the leg the male side. I cut the female side with a dovetail bit in a router, and the male side with the table saw. I have an auxiliary fence for my saw which sticks straight up in the air, and gives a surface to slide the leg along.

[Jerry Olexa]

Lars and Jim: you both did excellent jobs on your pedestal tables!! Beautifully done!!

[Alex Berkovsky]

Jim,
PM me your email address and I will send you a PDF that may help.

[Richard Wolf]

Fine woodworking did a construction articule about 1 year ago by Mario Rodriguez. A three leg shaker tilt top table. The feature was outstanding with great drawings and instructions.

Richard