Table Saw Dust Collection

[Jerry Solomon]

I have a Delta contractor table saw. I've been thinking about getting one of those dust collection bags that snaps under the table. My saw has a sloped pan under the table that collects most of the dust and slides it to the floor behind the saw. I don't know if the pan would interfere with the installation and/or use. I could remove the pan but that might not be a good idea. Anybody use these bags on a similar saw?

[Doug Jones]

Jerry.
I have the same saw as you. I also have had the same interest in maintaining a controllable level of saw dust. However before I spend 40 - 50 bucks on the bag, I think I'll try to convert a gunny sack or burlap bag to capture the saw dust. I know Wal-mart sells burlap material. If I can't find a bag, thats where I'll go. Just an option for ya to look at.
Good Luck, Doug.

[Jim Becker]

I suspect you have the current design of the Delta Contractor's style saw based on your description of the angled chute at the bottom. Removing the chute is possible, but you'll need to replace it's structural duties with some form of bracing, or the legs may tend to wobble or bend. A better idea might be to build a cabinet for your saw to sit on...the new October 2003 issue of WOOD Magazine has an excellent project that takes care of this need and is designed around a saw similar to yours. You can use the cabinet as a catch bin under the saw or equip it as shown in the plans for connection to a dust collector.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

I have a Delta contractor table saw. I've been thinking about getting one of those dust collection bags that snaps under the table. My saw has a sloped pan under the table that collects most of the dust and slides it to the floor behind the saw. I don't know if the pan would interfere with the installation and/or use. I could remove the pan but that might not be a good idea. Anybody use these bags on a similar saw?

Hi Jerry, What I did with mine is to first close off the area directly under the blade. It's a roughly square area that I made a wood sheet to fit it equipped with a 4 inch PVC piece that I connected my DC to. There is a lip around this whole opening so it's not that hard to do. You can also buy this piece from Delta; it's all plastic. So now the bottom "hole" is closed.

Next I used a piece of hardboard and cut an "L" shape to close in the back of the saw. This is where the belt goes from the motor to saw. I made mine removable because it interferes with the blade tilt. I got this rear panel, with careful fitting, to cover about 3/4 of the back. The only area you have to make room for is the belt of course.

With this set up I'm getting virtually all the saw dust below the blade. It really keeps the shop a lot cleaner. Now if I could do the same thing with my router. Good luck. Alan

[Jerry Solomon]

Thanks for the feedback.

[Doug Jones]

I suspect you have the current design of the Delta Contractor's style saw based on your description of the angled chute at the bottom. Removing the chute is possible, but you'll need to replace it's structural duties with some form of bracing, or the legs may tend to wobble or bend. A better idea might be to build a cabinet for your saw to sit on...the new October 2003 issue of WOOD Magazine has an excellent project that takes care of this need and is designed around a saw similar to yours. You can use the cabinet as a catch bin under the saw or equip it as shown in the plans for connection to a dust collector.

Jim, I know this is Jerry's thread, but I'd like to thank you for this idea. I had seen this and forgot about it. I'm going to have to dig out that issue and give it a go.
Thanks, Doug

[Jim Becker]

Jim, I know this is Jerry's thread, but I'd like to thank you for this idea. I had seen this and forgot about it. I'm going to have to dig out that issue and give it a go.
Thanks, Doug

You shouldn't have to dig too deeply for that issue...since it was just released in the last week!

[Doug Jones]

You shouldn't have to dig too deeply for that issue...since it was just released in the last week!

I guess your right page 62 to be exact. I must of been thinking of an article in another issue of another mag. Anyhow I do thank you for the reminder.

Jerry,
if you don't have it you may want tofind a copy of Wood mag, Oct. 2003 issue 151. It has a great way to remove your saw from its stand and place it on a different base that looks as if the dust would be very controllable (is that a word).

[Daniel Rabinovitz]

Jerry
I made a drawer with interlocking edges (yes! that sounds about right)
The saw is mounted on a ledge or in your case the sheet metal base.
Place a piece of plywood under the full footprint of the saw cabinet with a hole under the blade area. The size of the hole corresponds with the slope on the inside of the drawer.
The reason for the interlocking edge is to help with sealing the vacuum suction.
The drawer front has the adapter for the vacuum hose.
The drawer has sloping sides to allow the sawdust to slide down to the vacuum opening.
The drawer slides out because you WILL drop the nut or flange.

Ignore the large opening under the motor - it's a open shelf that only goes about 10 inches deep.
You're looking at the black vacuum opening - that's the drawer.
The vacuum get air from th opening in the back of the saw to direct dust in and down into the drawer.

[Bart Leetch]

To close up the back of a Contractors Table-Saw
I have made a back that is screwed on & slotted so that the motor support bars can traverse the slots. I also cut some material to fit & drilled holes so that the bars fit tightly.

I screwed the first piece to the saw sheet metal & slid the second piece on the motor support bars & then slid the bars into the casting & reached down through the throat plate hole & tightened the clamping bolts that hold the bars into the casting. Now when I crank the blade over to tilt it the belt area opens up to allow room for the belt. When straight up & down only the area needed for the belt & a small amout of slotted area the the right of the motor is open.

To do this you will need two pieces of stock the same size & shape as the material that supports your motor & comes out of the back of your saw, (I cut the heads off of 2 bolts I had & clamped them into the casting). Fasten it into the casting so that it sticks out just beyond the back of you saw then tape the first piece of material over the opening. Start with the blade straight up & down & start tilting it a little at a time & using a hammer tap the board lightly where the stock (cut off bolts) are just touching the material keep tilting the blade & taping until you have finished tilting all the way. Now you should have the travel arc of your saw. Cut it out a little wider. Now you will need to figure out the travel of the belt. When you get that done make the cover piece & work with it so it tilts with the motor & clears the saw top & belt.

Now accept for the belt & a short slot for the motor support the back will be closed when at 90 degrees & when tilted only enough area will be open to clear the belt.