What do you measure with?

[Craig Zettle]

I was scurrying for my tape measure the other day to check it against another one I have used for years and found that the tab that slides for inside/outside measurements didn't slide, and I made an incorrect measurement, resulting in a bad cut. It was on a piece of curly maple, and at that point I decided to get a better measuring system for cabinetmaking. I do try to use the same tape for all the cuts, but that little problem showed me how even that method can backfire.

So what foolproof method do you folks use?

[Lee Schierer]

I have two Stanley 30 foot tapes that get used exclusively for measuring longer pieces in my shop. Both have been checked against each other to see that they agree. Even so I normally grab one and use it through out the project and generally checke every dimension several times before cutting. If it is a foot long or shorter, I use 12" or or 6" steel scale.

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Craig--I don't think there is anything foolproof.

I have two tape measures I use for rough measurements. They both agree with each other. I use story sticks a lot. I also use marking gauges for accurate transfer, and bar gauges for inside and outside measurements.

As well, steel rules of various kinds--which again, all agree with each other. Hook rules are nice as long as one is going from a trued edge. LV saddle squares and the ubiquitous combination squares and double squares. Did I mention they all agree with each other <g>? They all agree to within an acceptable amount of error anyway. Extremely close. Closer than I am capable of marking.

Take care, Mike

[Bruce Benjamin]

For anything that matters that's 4' or less I stopped using tape
measures. I've yet to own one that was consistently within
a 32nd or 64th or sometimes even a 16th. As you found, the sliding
hook on the end can stick and they're easily bent. I usually use
a 12" hook rule that's pretty much dead on and I've used that to check
other rules that I have. I also bought 12" and 24" Shop Fox hook rules
but they were both inaccurate due to the hooks not being ground
properly. I was going to toss them but since both of them measure
short I was able to carefully file off part of the inside of the hook and
now they're as accurate at my better hook rule. I have a cheap 4'
straight edge/rule and amazingly, it's really very accurate. The only
problem with that one is that the marks are so thick that it's hard to
be precise but the marks are in the right places. My 3' rule is
consistently 1/64th off on all 4 scales but it is consistent. I very
clearly marked that rule to indicate such and decided not to throw it
away. I just use it rarely and with caution.

I also have a couple of sets of Whiteside brass measuring blocks that
are great but by far the best measuring tool I have is my fractional
dial caliper. I have 2 but the Shop Fox one is the best one. It's so
convenient for thickness measuring and I even use it for measuring
short lengths sometimes when I really need to check my accuracy.
If I need to be really precise I use the decimal dial caliper since it
goes down to .001".

Bruce

[glenn bradley]

Even if there was a foolproof method, I'd find a way around it. I use a Flatback 12' rule for long stuff and move to a combination square and / or a 6 inch one of these:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...ter=measureing

[Paul Ziegler]

For measurements of 12" or less I use an Incra T-square ruler which can make accurate marks with 1/64" resolution. I believe they also offer an 18" version.

[Mike Zozakiewicz]

I use the Incra "T" and flat rulers, and most importantly, a set of reading glasses. W/O the glasses I would be lucky to be within 1/4", no matter what the device!

Mike

[Steve Hayes]

Don't ask. It's kinda personal.

[Dan Oelke]

My favorite is a folding rule. My biggest problem is that I sometimes I will "burn an inch" - but then forget to add that inch back it. Not having the hook means that there is no hook to be off or bent or whatever. It also means that you have to register the end of the board with the end of the rule. For shorter things I often do this at the table saw by pushing both the piece of wood that the ruler up against the fence. The side of the fence gives me a nice surface to that both ends are even.

I also like the folding rule because my wife can't stand it. I can never keep a tape in the shop/garage for long before it developes legs for measuring something in the house. The folding rules stay right where I leave them. That of course doesn't solve the problem of me leaving the folding rule lay someplace.

[Randy Gillard]

I have an assortment of cheapo tapes that I use for rough measurements. When I start to cut to finished dimensions, I choose one tape and stick with it for the duration of the project. This is typically the 1/2" x 10 ft Lee Valley lightweight tape that lives in my apron pocket. For shorter dimensions and layout work, I have a 12" and 6" rule.


Cheers
Randy

[Mark Singer]

A bar guage is a very good way to transfer inside measurements. For small stuff, a marking gauge or double square works well. With tapes it is best to "cut" an inch and start from "1" rather than the end...

[Steve Wargo]

Story sticks and Folding rules with sliders.

[Alain Tellier]

- An old stanley 16' tape which I calibrate everytime I drop it on the floor...
- A six inch steel ruler
- A combination square
- A 36 inches Johnson ruler.

[mark koopman]

2 Stanley Fat Maxes (because 1 is just not enough) that measure exactly the same.

[Jon Masterson]

I use a tape to measure and cut the outer most pieces then everything else is made by measuring off them. If I need a center or divisions I use a steel rule and work from both ends to avoid errors - and if it goes wrong it is always when I measure something with a tape or a rule then cut it some place else