Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 31 to 41 of 41

Thread: Jointer + Rust = Mad!! (Update)

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Southwest Florida
    Posts
    1,482
    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Breckenridge
    Small Claims Court
    The more that I think about it the more that I agree with Gary. An easy fix is one thing but this. The actions of the contractor and/or his workers is pure negligence. In fact it is worse than that. It is the attempted coverup on their part that really makes the whole situation inexcusable.

    Inexcusable - "that cannot or should not be excused; unpardonable; unjustifiable"

    I am one that tends to let things go by rather than really cause waves, but I would be all over this one. Maybe the contractor will settle with you to your satisfaction. If not off to court I would be and I have never taken anyone to court in all of my life.

    Allen
    Last edited by Allen Bookout; 05-25-2006 at 2:22 PM.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Bedford County, Virginia
    Posts
    2,325
    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Shepard
    I've bought a few used machines in the past where the cast iron was that bad. Fortunately the biggest of these was a Delta Sanding Center and all the parts (even the table) was small enough to let them soak in WD40. That's not practical with your jointer tables but you might try building a dam out of something so that you can put a 1/16" to 1/8" layer of WD40 on them and let them soak good for a few days. I was able to get stuff cleaned up good after allowing them to soak before doing the sandpaper and more WD40 effort.
    Doug's post gives me an idea that might work. If "soaking" smaller pieces in WD40 is effective, and the only issue with jointer beds is their size, then what about dousing the beds with WD40 and covering them with clear plastic wrap to prevent the WD40 from evaporating? Then letting it sit for a while.

    I'm just thinking out loud. Have no idea as to the effectiveness of this but it seems like a logical extension of the soaking idea. .02

    P.S. Ryan, I hope you''ll continue to be aggressive in pursuing them for compensation.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Round Rock, TX (near Austin)
    Posts
    166
    Ryan - I agree with the suggestions for WD-40 and abrasives. I did that with my new unisaw and got the surface like a mirror. I used 3m paper from an auto paint store. Went from 360 to 400 - 600 - 800 - 1000 - 1200. Why did I do it, heck I don't know but I sure like it!!! I used two full cans of WD40. I was not dealing with rust tho.

    Regarding the bad work. You mentioned that you called the contractor. I took that to mean that you had a contractor who sent workers to do the work. If he was not on site most likely he did not know of the shoddy work. What was his reaction to your call? Hope he is a stand-up guy and will make things right before getting the courts involved.

    Keep up posted on both issues and Good luck!! -- Kevin

  4. #34

    Court should be absolute last resort

    Other than a speeding ticket, I've had one experience with court and it was not good. Both me and the other guy spent more on lawyers than anyone got. It could well cost you more time and money and headaches than you will ever get out of it. The contractor clearly owes you but it might not be worth court.

    First rule: Unless you are a lawyer, stay out of court.

    Second rule: Stay away from lawyers or you'll likely end up in court.

    Good luck.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Southwest Florida
    Posts
    1,482
    Quote Originally Posted by tim langford

    First rule: Unless you are a lawyer, stay out of court.

    Second rule: Stay away from lawyers or you'll likely end up in court.

    Good luck.
    PRICELESS!!!!!!!!!

    Allen

  6. #36
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    107
    I've removed similar surface rusting with the WD-40 method and progressively finer grit papers to 2000 and it worked out fine. I protect my rust prone areas with Corrosion X. It's a great product that seems to get right into the pores of the metal and lasts a long time. http://corrosionxproducts.com/
    I use the Corrosion X as a primary protective coating but apply a paste wax as needed mainly as a bearing surface.

    As for the contractor and damages; I would look for other water damages to structure of the building if the leak was very severe and would also look at my other cast iron surfaces in the shop for excess humidity issues.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    N Illinois
    Posts
    4,602
    THAT is unbelievable!! The "cover up" really is the insult, hoping you wouldn't catch it..I feel your pain. Our society has its share of dishonest fast talking people out for the quick buck. You're on right track..
    Jerry

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Victor, New York
    Posts
    133

    Rust problem on jointer

    I love Empire's "Top Saver". It works the best of all I have tried. Just spray it on and use a jointer push block on top of a scotch brite pad to work it in. It is very fast and effective. Do it two times and then a third time with out the block and pad and just buff it. It is a little expensive but works great! You will be amazed.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    52
    I really appreciate everyone's replies. It is nice to have someplace where folks can understand why I am so upset - unfortunately many people just do not know how a person can become "attached" to the machinery. You know how it will behave, how to treat it, and how to get the best from it. Keep the ideas flowing - and thanks again.

    -Ryan

  10. #40
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    N.W. Missouri
    Posts
    38
    Sorry about your jointer damage! I would be mad too. As far as making the plumbers pay, by all means try to do so. Here is my experience with a painting contractor who damaged my property:
    It took six months after the job was "completed" for the company to determine there was any damage. 2 months for their adjuster to get bids on repairs and another 4 months to get the payment "approved" . Our lawyer advised us not to go to court if possible as fees would eat up any payments. So one year after that we had our settlement.
    Maybe you'll be lucky and your claim will go faster, but don't count on it.

  11. #41

    Call and ask for an insurance certificate

    Having dealt with these people for 30 years, I wouldn't bother with a lawyer, I'd just try to find out who their insurance co is. The easiest way
    would be to get them to give you a certificate of insurance. That way you can call their agent and present him with your pictures and damage
    estimate. In all my time doing business, I have never had a subcontractor
    own up to the damage they caused me. The last time a plumber spilled some of that purple primer in a whirlpool, then lied and said no product he
    uses could have damaged that tub. Also had sheetrockers break the tubs
    and then smear mud on them so I would not see the damage till they were
    done. Too bad you paid these weasels. I would be tempted to call the
    bank and cancel the check and then send copies of the damage to the
    company. If they take you to small claims court, you could just take your
    pictures to court and countersue them for damages. No Lawyer Needed!
    Jim

Similar Threads

  1. Installed Byrd helical cutterhead in DJ-30 jointer (w/pics)
    By David Eisan in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 08-11-2006, 11:15 AM
  2. HELP! 8" Jointer Advice, Pick Your Favorite
    By Eric Porter in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 51
    Last Post: 10-14-2005, 1:02 AM
  3. Rust hitting machines, tried everything
    By Mark Gordon in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 09-19-2005, 10:40 PM
  4. Grizzly Jointer Problems/Outcome
    By Mike Scoggins in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 01-23-2004, 3:50 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •