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Thread: Finishing Koa

  1. #1
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    Finishing Koa

    I'm not sure how many of you here work with Koa and what type of finish you put on it, but I was shown a different way of applying Danish oil on Koa by an older woodworker here. All the books and articles I've read say's to "soak" the wood with the oil until it stops soaking in, than to wipe off the excess. Well with Koa, you get endless leaching if you soak the wood with oil. I found that out the hard way and could never figure out how to stop that from happening. It was getting old having to constantly wipe off the leaching oil from the wood.

    This older woodworker showed me a better way of putting oil on Koa. He sands down to a very fine grit and then burnishes the wood with an old worn out sandpaper which is basically paper. Then he wipes on the oil in a couple of very light coats and waxes after the final coat. No bubbling oil for days on end and leaves a very nice sheen.

    If anybody has a different or better way of applying oil to Koa, I would like to hear about. Always willing to learn a better way of doing something.

  2. #2
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    I LOVE Curly/Quilted Koa....

    and use it frequently. Many woodworkers would look down at me for using this product, BUT I believe it gives the best finish. Tru-Oil -found usually
    in gunshops or sometimes Woodcraft has it. Tru-Oil really pops the figure
    and if you apply a few coats (1 to 3), then it is an "in the wood finish"....you can apply numerous coats-sand-more coats-sand--and it is a nice on the wood finish.

    Watco Danish Oil also gives a nice "in the wood finish".

    Phil

  3. #3
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    Yeah right now that's what I use, Watco Danish oil. But I think my can might be getting a little old. I hear that oil gets old after a while and I might need to get a new can. I've never used that Tru-Oil before. Is it similar to Watco Danish oil in your opinion? That woodworker I talked to swears by Deft Danish oil but I can't find any here in the islands.

  4. #4
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    Hi

    Try this on a scrap piece of Curly Koa.....
    Sand to 400 grit, rub with 0000 steel wool, do not fill pores.
    Mix... 50% spar varnish; 30% watco natural; 20% turpentine, mix all in container. Coats MUST be applied 24 hours apart, 2 to 3 coats, wipe surface clean after each application, dispose of rags properly.
    If done properly this will be all that is needed.
    Tru-Oil is a product of BirchwoodCasey......it is a top secret blend of stuff...!
    LL Beans and Brownells sell it.
    Phil


  5. #5
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    That's an interesting blend Phil. Have you tried this mixture on Koa before? I'm not a fan of putting varnish on Koa, but this mix isn't pure varnish so I'm interested in what type of finish it will leave. Is this mix the same as that Tru-Oil you mentioned? Now you have my curiousity piqued and I'll have to try it. But about the steel wool thing. I've read where steel wool is a no-no especially on porous wood because it will leave tiny bits of unseen steel fibers in the pores. I will normally sand Koa down to 1000 or higher and finish from there. But I'm definitely going to try your mixture. Thanks Phil

  6. #6
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    Lg...

    The 0000 steel wool...instead of this you can try Mirka Mirlon UF
    synthetic steel wool---Homesteadfinishing sells it....I hae used both the steel wool and the synthetic steel wool-after steel wooling the raw wood, I vac-clean the wood, then wipe/brush. Tru-oil is some sort of polymerized linseed oil. With thr Tru-oil, you can either leave the pores unfilled or fill them.
    Good luck and have some fun-
    Phil

  7. #7
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    Hey Phil, I tried a blend of that concoction you mentioned, but with a little different blend because I didn't have the same stuff available. It came out pretty good. I think if I experiment a little more with the exact formula, I might end up with something that works good for me. Thanks for the idea. Not only that, but it spawned more ideas in my head that I'm going to implement in my shop. If I ever get rich & famous, I'll give you some of the credit

  8. #8
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    LG...free offer!

    If you EMAIL me your address, I will send you a tiny bottle of Tru-oil...
    for free.......
    Phil

  9. #9
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    Wow thanks Phil. You do know I live on in the middle of the Pacific right?

  10. #10
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    Lopaka---your emails are bouncing...please reply..

    I will send it -hopefully-- tomorrow! I tried to email(through SawMillCreek email AND directly) you, but it bounced back to me....
    ****
    1. Do you want the wood pores to be filled completely or leave the pores unfilled?
    2. How big a piece will you test the Tru-Oil on? A 10" by 10" piece of Curly Koa? I have some 3 oz containers, do you think 3 oz will be enough? 3 oz will be enough to finish a 10" by 10" piece of Curly Koa with numerous coats---and you will have some left over! Or should I send some more? (A 3 oz container will finish a complete gun stock and fore-end...with some left over.)
    By the way, here is the Tru-Oil home page:
    www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/index.html
    How to use Tru-Oil page:
    www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/index.html
    Lopaka Garcia-please reply to #1 and #2.

    Thanks, Phil

  11. #11
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    Phil that small bottle will do just fine thanks. I never thought about whether I wanted to fill the pores or not. I normally just leave it the way it is. I'll use it on a small box I'm working on now. It's Koa but not curly. I guess I could also make a test stick with different layers of finish to see what the out come would be. I'll give you an update after it's done. Thanks again.

  12. #12
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    Lopaka-the Tru-Oil is in the mail!

    Dear Lopaka,
    The package is sent by Priority Mail!
    Enclosed is a 8 oz bottle of Tru-Oil(I decided to mail you the much bigger 8 oz container instead of the much smaller 3 oz container—Now you will be able to finish a few smaller pieces, or a larger single piece.). When you use it, do NOT remove the tin-foil –but poke a small hole in it with a tooth-pick. Squeeze out the amount you want to use each time into a small container, then with the Tru-Oil bottle upright, compress the plastic bottle to rid it of air. (Tru-Oil hardens when introduced to air.).
    To order some more Tru-Oil:
    www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/wood_index.asp?categoryID=5&subcat=11&prodcat=107
    Directions to use Tru-Oil:
    www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/howto/bcref2003.pdf
    Enjoy and good luck!
    Phil

  13. #13
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    Wow Phil I really appreciate what you're doing for me. I'll let you know when I get it and try it on some projects. I hope you put your return address on it so I can do something for you in return.

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