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Thread: SD Design Capabilities/Steps

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Chicagoland
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    SD Design Capabilities/Steps

    I just downloaded SU over the weekend and went through the 5 or so tutorials. My question is related to how to use SU for woodworking.

    I see some people use SU as a visual tool only - they basically carve the complete project from one block for visual interpretation (i.e. like a photo). Others seem to build very detailed components and somehow piece them together to create the finished product (they might even use them as detailed dwg's to make the project).

    As a beginner - which method do most of the other SMC'ers use?



    Thanks,

    Mike

  2. #2
    It depends on what you need for your output. Are you just trying to work out how something will look or fit with other stuff? Maybe it's a general layout of cabinets for a kitchen remodel? Don't put in too much detail in the beginning. Then after you have the ideas solidified, start detailing. If you need to make working drawings to use in the shop, you would probably want to include joinery details and the like.

    The point is, don't go overboard on the detailing if you are going to end up making a bunch of changes before you get to the final model. that was the whole idea behind SketchUp. You can work loose to begin with and tighten up as details get finalized.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Northern Virginia
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    92
    Mike,

    Like you and many others, I've just only begun to explore SketchUp. I downloaded GSU the week after Google offered it to the public. Since then I have actually been asked to build a builtin for a coworker of LOML (hidden first paying project gloat). I initially used SU (push/pull) to mold a model (actually a few) to present to my "customer." Once she chose a design, I then "built" each piece of the unit and constructed it as though I was actually building it in my shop. I'm actually almost happy enough with my "construction design" to post it here (promise). I couldn't even imagine being at this point if it were not for SU. I'd probably still be working on one of the "options" I presented, rather than about a week or two away from making sawdust.

    Dave and Todd are both the resident guru's here. I've spent more than a few sessions here at SMC just reading up on SU in the archives (a wealth of info and tips there). My hats off to both, having read the past posts I was able to aviod a lot of repetitive questions and learn more than I expected.

    Just have fun with it and model to your hearts content

    Eric
    The only way to make dreams come true is to wake up.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Chicagoland
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    2,802
    Thanks for the help and Eric I would love to see your files (or someone elses). I find I learn best by example - not tutorials.

    Thanks,

    Mike

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,943
    I do both, but tend toward the more detailed views. For woodworking projects, I really don't care so much about getting every little dimension detail, but I do care about component relationships so I can build from the sketch based on the general measurements.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Chappell Hill, Texas
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    4,741
    When I was woodworking full time, I would use SU to make the sale (well, along with my charming personality...). When drawing with this aspect in mind, I added very few details. The most detail would typically be drawing a flat or raised paneled door, and an arbitrary crown moulding profile at the top of the unit (typically a built-in). I would check clearances and door swings for possible obstructions.

    If the sale was made, and it usually was after I wow-ed them with a SU drawings, I would then redraw for construction purposes. Lots of details, exploded assemblies, etc. However, I would not spend time drawing common joinery that I use, like dados or rabbets or box joints. There was no value add for me to spend time drawing the joinery since these were the joints I used all the time for every job. When I made my cutlist, I would add 3/4" to shelf widths and such, as I cut 3/8" deep dados/grooves. For drawer boxes, mine were always box joints, so I simply took the drawer box (not the front) width and length and those were my dims. In other words, drawing butt joints (or no joints for a drawer box) sufficed just fine.

    In the 3D design world, there is a term called "over modelling". When you are in the concept/design stage, there really isn't much point trying to draw fine details, like joinery, unless of course the joinery is your design, like a large dovetail on a wooden workbench vise, etc. Same for screw threads. Unless I take a job designing screws, I will never draw a screw thread. (Or a screw head for that matter!) Keep it light and simple and easy to change.

    If you want to see some SU drawings and completed projects, go to my web site to the Gallery and (scroll down and) then to Built-Ins. Each project has before and after pictures, and many have SU drawings I used to either sell or build the project, plus a bunch of words.

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