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Thread: compressed air filtration

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Farmington, AR
    Posts
    1,465

    compressed air filtration

    I am setting up a too small compressor to save my sand blaster sand from oil, water and particle contamination. The job I am doing requires that I go straight from the blaster to air cleaning, then painting. The blast agent must be VERY free from oil for this to work. The paint is a sort of baked finish that seems finicky as to how it adheres. NO solvent is suppose to be used after the blasting.

    I'm confused. On the (most excellent) advice of T. Hatfield, I bought a dual filter air cleaner/dryer for line use and a small filter for use right at the paint gun. Cambpell Hausfeld suggests, "Install a CH filter (PA2121) before and after the coalescing filter/dryer for optimum performance." The air cleaner/dryer is the PA208501 setup with a water trap/filter (coalescing) and a silica gel (drying) filter connected inline to each other. The filters that CH recommend attaching on either side are both 5 micron. The main filter/dryer is .01 micron. I can see that maybe that would "protect" the main filter system from large particles, but what good would it do downstream? Are they just trying to sell two more $20 filters, or is there benefit?

    Btw, until I get the compressor and all lines replaced, does anyone know a good way to remove oil and water from my old flexible (rubber?) line? I thought about pouring denatured alcohol through it.

    David

  2. #2
    david, pitch the contaminated line, at least for painting. they`re cheap and no amount of cleaning will assure you of a clean line.
    regardless of your pump, i like the products motorgard offers for filtration. the toilet paper filter before your line and a pumpkin at the gun. most autobody supply houses carry them.....02 tod
    TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN; I ACCEPT FULL LEGAL RESPONSIBILITY FOR MY POSTS ON THIS FORUM, ALL POSTS ARE MADE IN GOOD FAITH CONTAINING FACTUAL INFORMATION AS I KNOW IT.

  3. #3
    d,

    A prefilter would most likely make the dessicant last longer but it would work fine without one.

    I'm with Tod on the hose. Buy a new one it's not worth the risk of contaminating a project over a few $$$.

    t
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  4. #4
    ditto on the old line, or maybe re route it for blowing up tires & running air powered tools etc.

    Ditto in the dessicant with a particle filter after the dessicant. I'm guessing that even though the dessicant will be more of a pain than a low cost mechanical water extractor it'll work better.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Farmington, AR
    Posts
    1,465
    The unit I bought has the two filters pre-arranged (permanently) with the particle filter/trap with drain before the dessicant. I checked to see if the direction flow could be reversed, just so it would better fit my location. They don't separate.

    David

    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff Rohrabacher
    ditto on the old line, or maybe re route it for blowing up tires & running air powered tools etc.

    Ditto in the dessicant with a particle filter after the dessicant. I'm guessing that even though the dessicant will be more of a pain than a low cost mechanical water extractor it'll work better.

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