Old Handsaw Questions

[Vaughn McMillan]

I have an old beat-up handsaw that I inherited from my grandad over 20 years ago, and I've never really used it because it was always dull and the handle was cracked. My hardware store Stanleys were what I'd grab when I needed a handsaw. (Or nowadays, one of my Shark saws with disposable blades.)

I recently came across the old saw while rummaging for something else, and on a whim decided to check it out a bit more closely. Turns out it's a Disston, 7 tpi by my tape measure, but that's about where my knowledge ends. I don't know a rip saw from a crosscut saw without looking them up on the Internet.

I'm assuming, based on reputation of the brand, that underneath the grime and rust spots lives a saw that'd be worth making usable again. The blade has many years' worth of patina, but any rust appears to only be surface blemishes. It's a bit scratched up, but then again, so am I. It's not missing any teeth (neither am I), and the set of the teeth still appears to be consistent, unlike mine. There's a slight bow in the blade...about 1/16" or less over the length of the blade. The handle is cracked, but I can relatively easily replicate it, or simply glue the cracked pieces together and continue to add to the decades of hand sweat soaked into the original handle.

I'm finding more and more times when grabbing a tail-free tool is faster and easier than burning electrons, but I don't consider really myself a Neander woodworker. I'd like to breathe some new life into this old boy, but I'm not really passionate about rehabbing old tools, so I don't want to turn this into a major project. In most cases I like to save the passion for making stuff with the tools, not working on the tools themselves. (I really admire the folks who put their passion into the toolmaking, too. It's definitely an art and a science.) With this particular saw I guess I'm looking forward more to the end product of a usable saw with some family history, and not the path that gets me there.

Here are a few pics:

Disston Saw 800.jpg

Disston Handle 800.jpg

Disston Badge Detail 800.jpg

Enough background...now, my questions:

What would you do to rehab this saw? I'd be interested in returning it to "user" status, not taking on a project to return it to like-new condition. Any suggested cleaning regimen?

I think I'd prefer to fix the existing handle. Any reason to not fix the original handle and replace it instead?

I know the saw needs sharpening, but I'm not sure if I want to deal with learning and doing it myself, or letting someone with experienced hands and eyes do the job right. Learning to sharpen a handsaw is something I'll probably want in my bag of tricks someday, but I'm not sure I want to learn on this saw. I think it'd be useful to see what a properly-sharpened saw looks and cuts like before trying to get one in that condition myself. I'm open to suggestions, including any good sharpening shop recommendations.

Any other suggestions or insight on anything special about this saw will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

- Vaughn

[Deirdre Saoirse Moen]

I'm fairly new to the saw slope, and in pretty much the same place: we just inherited an old family saw from my husband's late father. it's in approximately the same shape except for a kink in the blade that'll need to be taken out.

I agree with you on sending it out to be resharpened at least the first time. For that time when you want to do it yourself, I'd recommend: a) files of the appropriate size; b) a saw vise; c) a saw set; d) Tom Law's video on saw sharpening.

About rust removal, thank you for prodding me to look this up. Probably the easiest method is soaking in acetic acid (vinegar), though it does change the look a bit.

As for the handle, I'd re-glue it and see if it works well after that. The saw nuts probably also need retightening (mine did).

[George Sanders]

Hey, this ain't rocket science. If I can do it so can you. You'll need a saw vice, a saw jointer, a saw set and some cant files for sharpening the teeth. Don't trust someone else to do it unless you know they do it by hand as some sharpening machines cannot be set up for the proper tooth spacing. Norsewoodsmith.com has an online tutorial that will guide you every step of the way; including straightening out the blade. It's really quite satisfying to use a sharp saw that has been sharpened by yourself.

[Jeff Horton]

i have a couple of hands saws but they are new ones. Just bought a couple of old backsaws that had be sharpened. Gives me something to compare too. But after looking those TINY teeth I decided to not to start with a backsaw.

Anyway, here is Bob Smalsers post on sharpening. I have read a couple more and it looks very straight forward. Once I get the last of these old machines restored I am going to start looking for a couple of old saws to rehab.

Like you I realized years ago that in some case hand tools are quicker that setting up a power tool. And often times I just enjoy using the hand tools even when power is quicker.

[Roger Nixon]

First off, you have a Disston D-8 made between WWI & WWII. This is a workhorse of a saw that will serve you well. Check out the Disstonian Institute for more details.
Not much is involved in restoration. Fix the handle. It looks like a clean crack so it should glue back easily. Clean off the gunk with some WD40 and a rag and toothbrush. A gray scotchbrite pad is good too. If there is some original varnish left some Formby's furniture refinisher will help spread it around.
There are good tutorials on blade cleaning and sharpening over on Pete Taran's Vintage Saws website.
Don't worry about a 1/16" bow, it won't affect anything.

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Vaughn,

Acid of any type can/will pretty much over-clean the blade and can give it a decidily gray-cast. Which can be sanded off, but can still "ruin" the wonderful look of the saw.

For vintage saws such as your wonderful one--I happen to love Disston 7s--I use a sanding block, some mineral spirits and begin sanding at a high 320 grit.

Pete Taran has an illustrated version of what I do. Except I use a sanding block for the large areas.
http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/s...saw_clean.html

As to sharpening, it is a skill like anything else. Some get along quite quickly, some do not and are not happy with the results. Like woodworking, practice on another saw before tackling one which may be dear to you.

Again, Pete's site:
http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/primer/sharp.html

Take care, Mike

[Don Baer]

Vaughn,
I can't speak about sharpening but for rust removal nothing beats "Navel Jelley" you can get it at most any hardware store and also at the borgs. I'd also vote for glueing the handle.

[Vince Sandy]

Vaughn,

I've refurbished a few old saws with good results using the methods I describe in this thread:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=10403

I've repaired and replaced handles and it all depends on the condition of the existing handle.

New handle:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=11464

Repaired handle:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=21659

All my saws are user-grade and my goal is to not only stop the deterioration but to make them look good too. Opinions vary. I've never sharpened one but hope to try it some day.

Have fun. Vince in NC

[Ed Breen]

To All,
Thanks for the primer. In my old thread "Found in the Crib" I pic'ed several saws, 5 distons and about six warrented (probably D's also) I have been on holiday but I'm aching to gert back to that steel.
Thanks again for the tips.
Ed

[Vaughn McMillan]

Thanks everybody for the feedback and suggestions. I appreciate all the links, and have covered most of them, but I see there's a lot of reading that can be done. For the initial cleanup, I'll go the mineral spirits and fine sandpaper route on the blade (I may start at 400 grit just to be gentle). This saw has lived in arid climates all its life, so any rust is superficial. The handle is not going to be any problem, although the crack is old enough it'll be tricky to make it disappear completely.

I'll leave the sharpening to someone else on this one. Like I said, someday I'll learn to sharpen a saw, but not this day and not this saw. Any recommended saw sharpening shops or individuals? Feel free to drop me a PM if you'd prefer.

Thanks again -

- Vaughn

[Danny Buie]

Vaughn,
I would consider having the saw re-toothed to something in the 10 point range. I have couple handsaws and most of what I do is crosscut. 7 TPI is a bit coarse for crosscut work. If you're going to send it out to be sharpened it will cost only a few dollars more for a re-tooth.

Just a thought.

Danny Buie
Baton Rouge

[Roger Bell]

In terms of "restoration", you would be well advised to avoid ANY type of chemical treatment or electrolysis........these methods are just too harsh for something of value where you wish to retain that value for re-sale.....on par with dunk-tanking and stripping a wood finish. So a conservative approach necessarily involves starting with fine abrasives with an oil based lubricant. You can always resort to coarser abrasives if you get impatient, but once it is scratched.....well....metal is pretty similar to wood in that regard.

But for a beater or commonly available tool that you simply wish to raise from the dead and put to use....I wouldnt get too fastidious about or fixated with refined methods that are appropriate for the conservator but perhaps overkill for an average tool for an average guy who intends to use it and use it up. If you took it to the Antiques Roadshow, you would not likely faint when they gave you their opinion concerning rarity and value.

Sharpening is sharpening. If you intend to use it, you gotta sharpen it up and sharpen it up right. Send it out if you are not ready to tackle it yourself. If you want to practise, get several old junk saws for a couple of bucks each and file away until you are satisfied with your results and are ready to move onto important saws. Like the man said, this aint rocket science. It isnt that hard to get it good enough to cut well enough. And you can still look forward to refining your skills if you decide you want to.

Appropriate "respect" for the "intrinsic value" of old tools is purely a subjective matter and therefore what you decide to do here is your call. In this respect, we all have our own views..........

[Mike Wenzloff]

Vaughn,
I would consider having the saw re-toothed to something in the 10 point range. I have couple handsaws and most of what I do is crosscut. 7 TPI is a bit coarse for crosscut work. If you're going to send it out to be sharpened it will cost only a few dollars more for a re-tooth.

Just a thought.

Danny Buie
Baton Rouge

Unless they are for quick rough cut to length...


Bottom ones are CC, top is rip.

Got coarser ones I use as well...

But my favorite vintage all-round cross cut saw is a Disston #7 with 7 ppi.

And they can be made to cut fairly smooth...


The above are from a 9 ppi cross cut. Top is an Oak 2x3, bottom is a Cherry 1x8.

Take care, Mike