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Thread: How do I ........

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    I live on the "West Side" of Phoenix near Avondale.
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    53

    How do I ........

    Chuck this thing up? I'm a newbie to turning.... I know...Vortex and all that and you are probably right. So I've got this bowl blank, I've got the outside the way SWMBO want's it, now, do I glue a "foot" on this? Do I Hot glue something to the bottom to put in my chuck? What's the best way to deal with this for a new guy? This is my first bowl so be gentle ok?

    Turning101.jpg (500 x 375).jpg
    Failure is not an option.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Lewiston, Idaho
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    Doug........first off welcome to the vortex!

    I'm a newby turner too. Hopefully somebody with more experience than I will respond. I've never done it .....I suppose you could glue a block to the bottoma and turn it to form a tenon.

    For future reference, on the limited number of bowls I've turned, I've always turned the bottom like you've done but turn a tenon on it. Then I chuck up the tenon and turn the interior of the bowl. Then I use a compression chuck to turn the tenon off the bottom. I made a compression chuck/jig out of two pieces of plywood. One circular piece is bolted to my faceplate. The other piece is circular with a hole in the middle. I place the bowl between the two pieces and bolt the 2nd piece to the first piece compressing or capturning the bowl between the two. The allows me to turn the tenon off the bottom of the bowl. I hope this is clear?

    Good luck with your first bowl! Turning bowls is a kick!
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
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    Lewiston, idaho
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    Another option would be to turn a "recess" in the bottom of the bowl, and use your chuck in expansion mode to hold the bowl. The recess then becomes part of the bowl's design. Put a couple grooves in it for decoration if you like..etc.

    Good luck, and Welcome!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    I live on the "West Side" of Phoenix near Avondale.
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    Thanks Ken

    I would like to have turned a tennon on the bottom but there just didn't seem to be enough material left over for a bowl if I did that. The fixture you made sounds like a cool thing to have. Any pics? At any rate thanks for the reply, guess I'll wait to see what the pro's thnink I should do. I'm surprised more haven't chimed in, maybe I did a foopah? I forgot to check the archives, my bad, sorry folks.
    Later,
    Doug in AZ.
    Failure is not an option.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Murrieta, CA
    Posts
    790
    Hi Doug,
    I'm a newbie turner also. I've learned more from watching
    Bill Grumbines videos. Highly recomended! www.wonderfulwood.com

    I'm sorry, but I can't explain what you need to do. I'm sure somebody here will be able help.
    Be Blessed

    George

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    I live on the "West Side" of Phoenix near Avondale.
    Posts
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    Thanks Forrest, that sounds like a nice way to chuck it up. How deep should the recess go?
    Thanks,
    Doug in AZ.
    Failure is not an option.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    I live on the "West Side" of Phoenix near Avondale.
    Posts
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    Thanks George, I'll think hard about the videos.
    Later,
    Doug
    Failure is not an option.

  8. #8
    When I'm working with dry timbers and want to make a bowl that uses the full thickness of the expensive wood, I usually glue on a block.

    I plane or sand a flat spot on the blank and glue a 1x3x3 block on the bottom. I usually just put the blank on the bench, set the block on with glue, and put weights on top to press. I've got 3 25# weights I use for that. If I have a bunch of them, I can even stack them with the weight on top and do several at once. Let them set overnight.

    If you're patient (which I'm not), you can use sandpaper on a flat block at the lathe to flatten the bottom. You can also use the tailstock for a little clamping pressure to set the glue block. But this way, you don't get to use the lathe until the next day. Since you have the profile the way you want it now, I'd use this method to glue on a small block to turn as the foot.

    Once you have the glued block on, screw on a faceplate from the top. Do the spinny thing, turning the foot and shaping the outside profile. Then you can chuck and turn the interior.

    As Forrest said, you can turn a small recess (expansion chucking). I prefer a foot because the bottom ends up feeling better somehow, but then you can ask 10 turners and get 15 different answers that will solve your problems.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Location
    I live on the "West Side" of Phoenix near Avondale.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Howard
    When I'm working with dry timbers and want to make a bowl that uses the full thickness of the expensive wood, I usually glue on a block.

    I plane or sand a flat spot on the blank and glue a 1x3x3 block on the bottom. I usually just put the blank on the bench, set the block on with glue, and put weights on top to press. I've got 3 25# weights I use for that. If I have a bunch of them, I can even stack them with the weight on top and do several at once. Let them set overnight.

    If you're patient (which I'm not), you can use sandpaper on a flat block at the lathe to flatten the bottom. You can also use the tailstock for a little clamping pressure to set the glue block. But this way, you don't get to use the lathe until the next day. Since you have the profile the way you want it now, I'd use this method to glue on a small block to turn as the foot.

    Once you have the glued block on, screw on a faceplate from the top. Do the spinny thing, turning the foot and shaping the outside profile. Then you can chuck and turn the interior.

    As Forrest said, you can turn a small recess (expansion chucking). I prefer a foot because the bottom ends up feeling better somehow, but then you can ask 10 turners and get 15 different answers that will solve your problems.
    Great Advice Adam, My thought was to glue on a piece of maple then make "sneaky" feet out of it once I had used it for a place to clamp. I take it that normal glue up procedures apply? Do you preferr CA, yellow, hide????
    Thanks,
    Doug in AZ.
    Failure is not an option.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
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    28,559
    Doug...........DUH! I didn't even think about turning a recess! Thanks Forrest .....I remember now you like to do that!

    Doug .....it's a little early but I can tell you from my personal experience....you'll get plenty of replies here from the best this site has to offer! I got started turning here. I hassled the turners here and they gifted (?) me with a lathe and tools. My wife says they didn't get even .....they got ahead! Every since they "Bombed" me with my Jet Mini VS they have very generously answered my every question and didn't hesitate to positively comment or correct my mistakes!

    I didn't know any turners locally and the nearest school is 120 miles away. I bought Bill Grumbines video and was gifted with Raffan's videos. I'd highly recommend Bill's video for bowl turning and Raffan's for general turning!

    These turners are a loud but friendly and generous bunch!
    Last edited by Ken Fitzgerald; 07-31-2006 at 9:56 AM.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
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    Doug.........Here's the thread where I showed my hastily turned compression chuck. In the future I plan on making more rings with varying sized "holes" for different sized bowls, platters etc.

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=34652

    Good luck!
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  12. #12
    Doug,

    I'll chime in with an opinion. I'd use a glue block with wood glue (titebond II) and leave it on the lathe. I'd bring the tailstock up to apply pressure to the glue block and apply clamps if possible. After the the glue dries, I'd turn the glue block down to an appropriate diameter for your chuck, reverse the piece, and remove the faceplate. I'd pull the tailstock up while removing the meat of the piece and finish it with sharp tools and the tailstock out of the way. After sanding and finishing the top, I'd reverse the piece with a jamb chuck and remove the waste block.

    Though I've used the collett chuck method in the past, I'm not a fan of it now because it leaves a telltale sign of how the piece was held in the lathe. I've found that finishing the bottom so that someone has to ask, "How'd you do that," seems to produce more interest in the bowl.

    You'll find that one of the first things people do when they look at a turned piece is pick it up and look at the bottom. I'm not knocking what other people have suggested. I'm just saying that the bottom, in my opinion, is easier to clean up with a tenon.

    We want to see the finished product no matter which way you go so post a pic.
    Raymond Overman
    Happiness is a warm chainsaw

    "Do not wait, the time will never be just right. Start where you stand, and work with whatever tools you may have at your command. Better tools will be found as you go along." Napolean Hill

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    I live on the "West Side" of Phoenix near Avondale.
    Posts
    53
    I hate to keep saying this but, Thanks Raymond, I have to admit I am more inclined to go with your suggestion, the only problem is the jam chuck. I have zero experience with one, I know what they are, but the thought of trying to make one with my limited experience just scares the crapola right outa me. I haven't seen anyone comment on the "sneaky" feet thing, is that passe' now? My initial thought was to glue a round on the bottom, use it for my "tennon" then sand, saw, grind, whittle, carve three or four little feet from the round? Sound doable?
    Thanks,
    Doug in AZ.
    Failure is not an option.

  14. #14
    Doug,

    A jamb shuck isn't that complicated. In fact, all you have to do for your short bowl / platter is put a doubled over rag (I use old blue jeans) over the jaws of your chuck and bring the tailstock up to the center point of your glue block (which should still be marked from where you turned it). Tighten the piece to the chuck and turn the tenon away until you have a nub about 1/4" or less. This should be easily removed with a sharp wood chisel and cleaned up with sandpaper.
    Raymond Overman
    Happiness is a warm chainsaw

    "Do not wait, the time will never be just right. Start where you stand, and work with whatever tools you may have at your command. Better tools will be found as you go along." Napolean Hill

  15. #15
    You betcha. Turn a normal foot with the center dished out. I used a Dremel with a 1/2" sanding drum to remove all the wall of the foot except for the 3 legs, then power sanded to blend in with the body.

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