Compressed air line question

[Chris Padilla]

As to painting/sprayers, I actually picked up a nice HVLP system (Apollo 1000) a year or two prior to getting my "on sale for a nice price" Sears two-stage compressor.

I attached a couple of pics of my compressor setup...quite unelaborate and I used galvanized pipe as well...and no flex line between compressor and hard line, either.

[Sam Shank]

I used copper for part of what I needed, but if I were going to do it again, I'd use black pipe for one reason. It's cheaper than copper is now around here.

[Allen Bookout]

Chris,

That is one unique setup. At least I have never seen anything like it.

Allen

[Chris Padilla]

Chris,

That is one unique setup. At least I have never seen anything like it.

Allen

Let's just hope the compressor doesn't need any major servicing because it was a PITA to get it up there. I've since cinched it down further (I do live in earthquake country after all) with a water heater strap around mid-belly. If that compressor falls down, I have more serious problems with the house than the compressor falling...like the second story entering the garage space!

I was also able to "expand" the drain line of the tank by adding a large brass nipple. To drain, i shut off one valve, open the other...right into the sink...very easy and clean.

[David Rose]

LOL The first thing I thought of Chris, was "what if you need to change a belt?". Ugh! That should be way down the road though... hopefully.

David

Let's just hope the compressor doesn't need any major servicing because it was a PITA to get it up there. I've since cinched it down further (I do live in earthquake country after all) with a water heater strap around mid-belly. If that compressor falls down, I have more serious problems with the house than the compressor falling...like the second story entering the garage space!

I was also able to "expand" the drain line of the tank by adding a large brass nipple. To drain, i shut off one valve, open the other...right into the sink...very easy and clean.

[David Rose]

The "TP Tools metal piping article" was one of the first that I found. It gave me ideas, but instead of risers I really need mostly bottom "U"s coming back up. My line will need to run along the ceiling. I have limited (make that low roof line) access to the attic space. TP uses both in their example. I imagine that is ideal. I hope lower drops with drains and coming back up to the discharge lines will do the same.

I am receiving air from a 7.5HP, 22cfm, 120 gallon compressor (that I don't have yet, but is promised). My highest draw will be for a blast cabinet that needs a minimum of 12cfm. I will also power a touchup gun. Both must be very oil and water free as the coating I am spraying is not supposed to "stick" after any solvent is used on the project. Compressed air is the only thing used to remove blast media. And this will be done on a fairly tight budget.

For any who might be interested, I am starting to apply a product called Gun-Kote to firearms. From instructions and talking to their primary distributor, it is really finicky stuff. This is NOT a commercial! It will be "well down the road" before I am fully setup and learn the ins and outs.

David

[Dennis Peacock]

Good thread with very good info in it. Keep it coming so I can keep learning.

[Al Willits]

""""""""""""

For any who might be interested, I am starting to apply a product called Gun-Kote to firearms. From instructions and talking to their primary distributor, it is really finicky stuff. This is NOT a commercial! It will be "well down the road" before I am fully setup and learn the ins and outs.
"""""""""""'

Not from a outfit named Kal Guard is it, if so it's pretty good stuff.
Used to use their products a lot when I was building Bike motors.



Al

[David Rose]

Al, it comes from a company called KG Industries, Inc. Hmmm... I wonder if KG stands fro Kal Guard. It is a bake on finish done at 30 minutes at 300 degrees. It is proven to withstand the military demands of 700 hours of salt spray. Another test proved it effective for 7 years at 50% salt on/off! I think the maker advertises that it was developed for the US military, but you know how that goes. The company does offer several products so what you used might have been a different product from the same company. That is still waaay better than the powder coat finish I had done on a utility trailor.

David

""""""""""""

For any who might be interested, I am starting to apply a product called Gun-Kote to firearms. From instructions and talking to their primary distributor, it is really finicky stuff. This is NOT a commercial! It will be "well down the road" before I am fully setup and learn the ins and outs.
"""""""""""'

Not from a outfit named Kal Guard is it, if so it's pretty good stuff.
Used to use their products a lot when I was building Bike motors.



Al

[J. Scott Chambers]

Maybe I missed it, but was the reason for using copper pipe in lieu of steel?

[Jon Eckels]

I don't know about around you guys... but around here (NY) the price of copper has gone through the roof recently. I worked at a hardware store (just a few weeks ago - left recently) and watched the price of anything with copper in it jump three times. The price of a basic 1/2x10 L Copper jumped from about 20$ to 35$. 3/4" Copper is up from about 35$ to 55$ per length. All copper fittings too. I've seen the price of steel pipe go up too, but not as drastically as copper. Steel has gone up about 10% or so in the last year but copper has gone up 25% or more.

It's all due to the rising price of raw materials. Anything with copper in it has seen big price hikes. As well as Brass fittings, and Solid Brass Hardware.

I would suggest you go with steel pipe, as a matter of cost alone. But don't take my word for it. Call a plumbing supply and ask them about it too. It may not be as expensive as it is where I am, but I can guarantee you it's about 25%-40% more expensive than it was a year ago. With no end in sight.

[tod evans]

jon, my local supply house wouldn`t even quote 10ga s.o. cord on tuesday! they said the price is given when they ship?? things are getting weird.......i`ve been doing business there over 20 yrs and have never heard the like? i`d say if anybody really needs copper, wire/pipe/ copper alloys ect. they`d be wise to get now or plan on waiting 6 months to a year for things to stabilize....02 tod

[J. Scott Chambers]

jon, my local supply house wouldn`t even quote 10ga s.o. cord on tuesday! they said the price is given when they ship?? things are getting weird.......i`ve been doing business there over 20 yrs and have never heard the like? i`d say if anybody really needs copper, wire/pipe/ copper alloys ect. they`d be wise to get now or plan on waiting 6 months to a year for things to stabilize....02 tod

The quotes we get are good for a couple days, tops. Really scary when you're sitting on projects with miles of copper.

That why I asked why David was using copper. I guess copper would be easier to custom fit if a pipe threader is not available.

[David Rose]

No potential for rust, faster/easier for me to install.

Maybe I missed it, but was the reason for using copper pipe in lieu of steel?

[David Rose]

Oh, yeah. The price is higher. But I can solder much faster than thread (and I have everything to solder), no potential damage from moisture, easier drops when needed later are my main reasons for going copper.

David

I don't know about around you guys... but around here (NY) the price of copper has gone through the roof recently. I worked at a hardware store (just a few weeks ago - left recently) and watched the price of anything with copper in it jump three times. The price of a basic 1/2x10 L Copper jumped from about 20$ to 35$. 3/4" Copper is up from about 35$ to 55$ per length. All copper fittings too. I've seen the price of steel pipe go up too, but not as drastically as copper. Steel has gone up about 10% or so in the last year but copper has gone up 25% or more.

It's all due to the rising price of raw materials. Anything with copper in it has seen big price hikes. As well as Brass fittings, and Solid Brass Hardware.

I would suggest you go with steel pipe, as a matter of cost alone. But don't take my word for it. Call a plumbing supply and ask them about it too. It may not be as expensive as it is where I am, but I can guarantee you it's about 25%-40% more expensive than it was a year ago. With no end in sight.