Attaching a cabinet top

[Ken Miller]

I'm making a tv cabinet that will have frame and panel sides with a solid wood (cherry) top. Can I attach the top to the sides with pocket screws? (Would this allow for the proper amount of wood movement?) Do I have to have a sub-top? (I don't know if my terminology is correct but what I mean is, do I have to rout a rabbet on the top inside of the sides that would fit a sub-top and than put my solid wood top on top of that?) Though I'd really prefer not doing this I would if I have to. If so, how would it be best to attach the top solid wood? Any other suggestions are more than welcome. Thanks in advance.

[John Timberlake]

I have used pocket screws for attached tops where wood movement will be an issue. Found that all goes well if I drill the pockets double wide (two holes next to each other) and the used a round rasp to connect the holes. This allow for the movement. If your top is plywood or MDF, should not be an issue at all.

[Jim Becker]

What John said. No matter what format of screws or fasteners you use, you need to accommodate wood movement. In most cases, tops on casework have that movement front to back (across the grain of the top), so make sure you have things set up with that in mind.

[Mark Singer]

I drill oversized holes in the sub top and screw into the finish top or figuer eight fasteners

[Charlie Plesums]

I cut a pocket hole, then use a biscuit cutter to put a groove in the edge of the wood (apron or cabinet side) for the screw to move with top's wood movement. The groove for a size 0 or 10 biscuit seems to be good.

[Don Baer]

I'd use the old fassion method. I'd cut a 4 small pieces with 45 degrees on the endes. Srew then then into the corners then use a screw from the bottom of the corner braces up into the top. by making the holes in these corner brackets a litle over sized you can acommidat the movement. This also helps tie the face frames into the side casework.