The Taming of the Skew: Part 2

[Chris Barton]

So, I have been asked about sharpening without a jig and how to do it and I will do my best to explain it here. First, I am sorry about the accompaning pictures, I should fire my film crew! But, wait a minute, I am the film crew!

First, work on getting the general shape the way you want it and don't worry too much about taking off too much material, it's very hard to graind away too much. You can mark a curved line along the skew approximating the shape you want to achieve using a magic marker. Then the first "trick" to free hand sharpening; use the tool rest as a place to rest your hand, not the tool. Don't worry, the sparks that fly from the steel are not hot enough to burn you, I hardly feel them at all. Second "trick" is to go lightly and use a very light touch. Remember, only the first millimeter or so is the actual cutting edge of the tool, the rest is the bevel that rides on the wood while cutting and it doesn't cut so it doesn't need to be sharp. Just try to avoid large "facets" or flat spots that might bump around. Third "trick" is to rehearse the movement with the grinder off and the wheel stationary. That way you know how you will have to move to put a clean and smooth adge on the tool. Lastly, turn on the grinder and make the sharpening pass using only light pressure and focusing on sharpening only about a 1-2 mm wide section along the radius of the skew. You will be surprised how easy this is.

Here are some pictures that attempt to show the hand positions and sweeping motion. Realize I had to take the pictures with one hand while holding the skew with the other and I am clumbsier than a sack full of left handed scissors. If I can do this, anyone with two hands can do it too. Lastly, I am posting a picture of the larger skew that (kind of) shows the cutting edge relative to the bevel. For some reason my camera doesn't like to take pictures of shiny stuff too close up.

[Bob Noles]

Nice job Chris on both the tutorial and the pictures. Your method of freehand is nothing at all like I had pictured in my mind. So you keep the tool above the rest when sharening? Is there a danger of "catch" that could trap your and between the tool and the rest? I know... I know.... I'm a big sissy and stingy with my blood cells I think I am going to give freehand a try based on what you have shared. It looks so much easier than fooling with all my Wolverine set up.

Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience.

[Chris Barton]

Hi Bob,

The secret is in using a light touch. I personally don't think you have to worry about the catch. The big difference between a sharpening jig and hand sharpening is how much material you are actually removing. With the jig you are removing steel across the entire bevel surface and that requires more pressure and ultimately uses up more of the tool faster. With freehand sharpening you are only refreshing the first couple of mm aso the tool lasts longer.

Alan Lacer just published an article on this in one of the woodworking magazines in the past month or two. I will find it and provide the volumn and month information.