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Thread: Kitchen cabinet question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Lyons, Kansas
    Posts
    57

    Kitchen cabinet question

    I'm building kitchen cabinets out of melamine covered particle board. I'm using the same design that Danny Proulx advocates in his book, Building Kitchen Cabinets. However, because I have a small kitchen with a high ceiling I'm building them taller for additional space. He calls for 3/4 or 5/8" stock. Since I can't find 5/8 I'm using 3/4. These things are HEAVY. I'm beginning to worry that they won't hold. I've thought about replacing the backs with 1/2 melamine. Am I worrying about nothing? I emailed Danny and he said I'd be okay, but I don't know....

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Dallas, Tx.
    Posts
    1,337

    Heavy, for sure.....

    I don't know Danny Prolux, but I'm sure if he wrote a book, he knows what he's talkin' about. I just wouldn't use particle board or MDF for kitchen cabinets. I've built numerous cabinets from both those products, but for kitchen, and especially uppers and shelving, I won't use it. I really hate particle board for furniture. Veneer layups on MDF, counter tops and such, that is a different story. I'm just stubborn, among other things
    Phil in Big D
    The only difference between a taxidermist and the taxman, is that the taxidermist leaves the skin. Mark Twain

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Chappell Hill, Texas
    Posts
    4,741
    I'm not familiar with his method either, but good screws (#10) have an amazing shear strength. Not sure whether his method puts mounting cleats on the inside or the outside of the cabinet, but I would glue those on good - every side possible. You could always screw through to tops into the ceiling joists or fur down studs too. Also, you are probably already planning this, but be sure to screw the cabs together too.

    Post pictures!

    Todd.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    N E Arkansas
    Posts
    386

    Melamine cabs

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Oakley
    I'm building kitchen cabinets out of melamine covered particle board. I'm using the same design that Danny Proulx advocates in his book, Building Kitchen Cabinets. However, because I have a small kitchen with a high ceiling I'm building them taller for additional space. He calls for 3/4 or 5/8" stock. Since I can't find 5/8 I'm using 3/4. These things are HEAVY. I'm beginning to worry that they won't hold. I've thought about replacing the backs with 1/2 melamine. Am I worrying about nothing? I emailed Danny and he said I'd be okay, but I don't know....
    Chris have you thought of cleats on the cab back and wall ? I use # 10-3" screws for mounting to the studs for melamine, ply or solid, colored head screws are available. Use more screws for your cabs if you are unsure, those # 10 washer head are stronger than you think, I would be worrying about the construction joints holding before the hanging method.
    Now if you have steel studs, thats another horse of a different color, I like wood studs.

  5. #5
    John, at Woodshop demos did a review on Danny's Euro style frameless technique a to too long ago: Euro Cabinet Construction

    Dave

  6. #6
    eaglesc Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Oakley
    I'm building kitchen cabinets out of melamine covered particle board. I'm using the same design that Danny Proulx advocates in his book, Building Kitchen Cabinets. However, because I have a small kitchen with a high ceiling I'm building them taller for additional space. He calls for 3/4 or 5/8" stock. Since I can't find 5/8 I'm using 3/4. These things are HEAVY. I'm beginning to worry that they won't hold. I've thought about replacing the backs with 1/2 melamine. Am I worrying about nothing? I emailed Danny and he said I'd be okay, but I don't know....
    Chris-
    I also used Danny's books for reference and I ran into the same situation as you.
    I made my cabinets 36" tall varying widths with 3/4 melamine from H.D.
    For those who don't use the frameless or Euro- style cabinets they were developed to get the maximum use of sheet goods with the least amount of waste.
    In Europe People take cabinets with them when they move.
    Getting back to the subject.
    Because of the full back,installation is easier(theres got to be a stud somewhere)
    I did opt to mount mine with a French Cleat but after they've been up for 6 months I don't think it was necessary.
    My "proto-type" were some shop cabinets and they too are holding up fine.
    The only caveat I will add is I don't think I'd trust screwing on the backs with drywall screws.
    Get the ones that Danny mentions,either confirmat or the type used in the Kreg jigs.

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