Finally made a little progress with the DC Install - We have suction!

[Doug Shepard]

I'm way behind on getting this beastie installed but as promised on earlier threads, I'm taking pics as I go. I hope to get the blower, cyclone, and other parts installed tomorrow. Here's a couple pics so far.

I'm using a double mounting board with vibration isolators in between to decouple the thing from the wall. I'm also using smaller isolators between the end brackets and motor mounting board. It may be overkill, but this isn't really something I want to find out later that I need. For about $25 the isolators seem like cheap insurance that I'm doing everything possible to stop noise and vibration from going through the wall to the family room.
Install1.jpgInstall3.jpgInstall6.jpg

Getting the motor onto the wall bracket was fun. Due to interference with rafters, I had to remove the near end bracket, slide the motor and mounting board in from the end, then re-attach the end bracket. I had help but it was still a real workout. In hindsight it makes the decision to use bolts instead of screws look smart, but I wasn't thinking that far ahead at the time.
Install7.jpg

[Mike Cutler]

Doug.

Looks like a nice setup in the works. Those concrete anchors had to be a little on the fun side.

[Lori Kleinberg]

Keep the info and pictures coming. I love watching
other peoples progress.

[Russ Massery]

Looks good Doug. I really like the idea of mounting it on the wall with isolators. Are you going with a switched remote? As others had said keep the pic coming......

[Doug Shepard]

Doug.
Looks like a nice setup in the works. Those concrete anchors had to be a little on the fun side.

They're actually not anchors but something called Tap-Cons that I'd never heard of. My dad had some extra ones so the price was right. Had to drill a pilot hole with a masonry bit but they then self-tap into the concrete. As long as you hit the webs inside the block you get the full length of the screw holding. I managed to hit the webs on 4 of the 5 holes. They pulled the board real tight to the wall and feel really solid. The top ones are just #12 3-1/2" wood screws into the 2x8 plate on top of the wall.

Looks good Doug. I really like the idea of mounting it on the wall with isolators. Are you going with a switched remote? As others had said keep the pic coming......

I'll definitely be going with a remote but don't have any of the parts yet for that part of the install. Dennis Peacocks web page has some pretty good info that I've been looking at for when I get to that point.

[Doug Shepard]

Just an update if anyone's interested. At Ed's urging, I started an album on ClearVue's gallery section where I'm keeping the install progress up to date. It's a little simpler to do it there without replies coming in between additional pics. I've got a few more pics to take after another hour or so of work this evening, but the gallery pics are pretty current.

http://gallery.clearvuecyclones.com/Dougs-Mini-CV1400

[Doug Shepard]

Still have a LOT more work to do on the install, but we have suction!! See the ClearVue gallery link on the previous post if you want a running progress report.

[Russ Massery]

Great to hear Doug. And it's Clearvue boy do you have suction.

[Chris Padilla]

Darn, I *knew* I shoulda kept my Nike shoe boxes instead of tossing them in the recycle bin!!

Good progress, Doug, steady as she goes. I'm putting up my 6" PVC ducting right now. It is a slow and thoughtful progess so it takes time.

[Doug Shepard]

Russ/Chris (or anyone else for that matter)
Do you guys happen to know whether I should expect an increase, decrease, or no change in the volume level from the DC once I have the filters attached? It's pretty loud just running the Nike box test. I'll eventually have the whole thing re-enclosed in a closet, but am still debating whether I want to try (or need) the muffler thing between the transition and filters.

[Chris Padilla]

Put the muffler in.

[Larry Cooke]

They're actually not anchors but something called Tap-Cons that I'd never heard of.

Doug,

I would be leery of using Tap-Cons for this application. My experience with them has been less than pleasant where there's vibration or moving parts involved. They tend to work loose in very short order. If it were me, I'd consider another fastener, like a lag or toggle bolt and use some blue loctite thread locker on them.

Your installation is looking good btw! Mine is still in the box . Need to get out in the shop and get moving but it's been just too hot for me lately...

Larry

[tod evans]

Doug,

I would be leery of using Tap-Cons for this application. My experience with them has been less than pleasant where there's vibration or moving parts involved. They tend to work loose in very short order. If it were me, I'd consider another fastener, like a lag or toggle bolt and use some blue loctite thread locker on them.

Your installation is looking good btw! Mine is still in the box . Need to get out in the shop and get moving but it's been just too hot for me lately...

Larry

doug, larry makes a valid point.....a few bucks spent on redhead anchors would be a wise move in my opinion.....02 tod

[Doug Shepard]

doug, larry makes a valid point.....a few bucks spent on redhead anchors would be a wise move in my opinion.....02 tod

Larry/Tod - unfortunately I would have to undo a lot of work at this point to replace the Tap-Cons. I do have #12 wood screws into the plate on the top of the wall. And hopefully the rubber vibration isolators I used would help kill the vibration through the mounting board. Are you telling me the Tap-Cons are definitely going to fail?

[tod evans]

doug, the only certainties are taxes-n-death but tapcons are my least favorite method of mounting anything to block. they may hold well for years or they may fail tomorrow? it`s a crapshoot....02 tod

[edit] after looking closely at your photos i think you`ll be fine....the wood screws are bearing the cantilevered weight and the tapcons are acting in shear unless the wood screws fail....you should be fine...02 tod