How do you clean your shellac brush?

[jonathan snyder]

Hi folks,

I bought a good golden taklon watercolor brush for shellac. It is at least 100 times better than the purdy I first tried to use.

How do you guys clean your good brushes or do you just let them harden?

Not sure if ammonia or straight DNA or letting it harden is bad for the bristles


Thanks
Jonathan

[Steve Schoene]

I let it harden. Keeps out dust and holds the shape. Just soak in DNA--or the shellac itself for a while before using again.

[Jim Becker]

I "wash" mine out with DNA to some extent to get a lot of material out of it, knock it off, smooth it and put it back in the card-stock cover. It hardens a little, but is easy to bring back to soft when the next shellac session is scheduled.

[Howard Acheson]

A nice thing about shellac is that you do not have to clean the brush. Like Jim, I give it a quick swish in some alcohol then put it away. It hardens in shape protecting the bristles and you'll never be tempted to use if for something else

A 10 minute soak in alcohol will dissolve the shellac and you will be back in business.

[Jim Hinze]

I use amonia to lean mine, rinsed in water then stored...

[Jerry Olexa]

DNA works for me. I do clean after each use. Easy to work with. Another reason to like shellac

[jonathan snyder]

Thanks folks.

I just wasn't sure what was best for the brush. I paid $26 for it, I dont want to buy another one anytime soon!!

Jonathan

[John Timberlake]

I don't. The brushes I use are cheap, fine haired brushes. I keep them in a container of DNA during a finishing project and then throw them away. A 2" brush only cost $1.79 so not worth cleaning when they have been used.

[Phil Phelps]

Thanks folks.

I just wasn't sure what was best for the brush. I paid $26 for it, I dont want to buy another one anytime soon!!

Jonathan

....I clean rinse the bursh, then suspend it, passed the heel, in alcohol for an hour or so. Then it either goes in the cardboard holder or I wrap it in paper for it's original shape. For alkyd products, I'll suspend the brush for 24 hours in paint thinner. Letting the brush dry in it's original shape keeps a chisel edge with no freying. After all, a brush is a tool.

[Martin Shupe]

I let mine harden, then let it soak in DNA prior to the next use.

However, I did learn one thing last time I did this. If you let it soak in a jar that is too full, the DNA will take the paint (or plastic, not really sure) off the brush handle, which tinted my DNA black.

I'll try to remember that lesson next time.

It is so hot in Texas that I have to put shellac on inside, or it dries way too fast and I get stripes.

[Steven Wilson]

I remove as much of the shellac from the brush as possible, then I soak/rinse in DNA followed by a wash in warm water with Johnsons Baby Shampoo. Finally I wrap it in brown paper and set it aside. I find that if you just let the shellac dry and then resoak in DNA or shellac that it doesn't always work if the brush has sat unused for a long time. My good shellac/lacquer brushes are going on 5 years and are still just as pliable as when they were purchased.

[Phil Phelps]

I remove as much of the shellac from the brush as possible, then I soak/rinse in DNA followed by a wash in warm water with Johnsons Baby Shampoo. Finally I wrap it in brown paper and set it aside. I find that if you just let the shellac dry and then resoak in DNA or shellac that it doesn't always work if the brush has sat unused for a long time. My good shellac/lacquer brushes are going on 5 years and are still just as pliable as when they were purchased.

What are the bristles made from of those brushes?

[Steven Wilson]

Natural and Synthetic. I mainly use a Windsor Newton #580 (Golden Taklon) for details and a Omega Lily Oval Varnish brush (natural bristles) for flat areas