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Thread: edge jointing quietly

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Memphis
    Posts
    66

    edge jointing quietly

    Hi all, I was wondering what hand plane you guys would suggest for edge-jointing boards that are pretty much already straight, as in boards that are bought 4s or 2s or whatever it is. I'm looking for a hand tool instead of an electric jointer mainly for money and portability, speed isn't too much of a factor. Can a $50-$80 plane get me edges good enough to glue up for table tops? and which one would you suggest? Thank you for your help and any other low cost edge jointing suggestions, Mark

  2. #2
    I use a Stanley #8 but then I don't mind the added weight. Others like a 7. I'm not current on prices but even years ago my sweetheart 8 cost more then $80. 7s tend to be cheaper.

    Good enough? I'm fairly sure they made glued up panels before they discovered electricity.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    New England
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    822
    I use my cheapo #7 even after using a powered jointer. Clamp the boards together face to face with the edges aligned and take a light (not necessarily wispy) cut. The face to face cancels out any slight angle you put in with the plane. I keep the blade very sharp which results in a glasslike surface in most woods.

    Pete
    Last edited by Pete Bradley; 08-20-2006 at 2:20 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    10,326
    A jointer plane will do the job, but you must also budget for sharpening equipment.

  5. #5
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    Aug 2006
    Location
    Memphis
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    cool, thx for the replies, time to hit ebay i guess...

  6. #6
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    ok, does anyone know anything about this one?
    http://www.stanleytools.com/?CATEGOR...er+Bench+Plane

    i can't seem to find the price or any info on it, if anyone knows let me know, thanks

  7. #7
    Personally I wouldn't buy new. I might take one if you gave it to me but I wouldn't buy new.

    http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan1.htm

    http://www.supertool.com/oldtools.htm

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Laguna Beach , Ca.
    Posts
    7,201
    I will often use a #4 or #5 to smoothe the board and add a touch of concavity to the fit....so there is a bit of light between boards
    "All great work starts with love .... then it is no longer work"

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Hubbards, Nova Scotia, Canada
    Posts
    147
    It depend mostly on how long your boards are. The humble jackplane (No. 5 or equivalent) will take you pretty far. In fact, if you have a good straight edge to check your progress, there's no real limit to how long a board you can edge joint.

  10. #10
    Although I own a small powered joiner I don't use it. I edge join one of two ways. The noisy way is on my table saw with a good rip blade. The other way is with a jack plane. I know that this is the neander forum so I won't elaborate on the TS method but I have foound that both methods have their place.

  11. #11
    If it's shorter than about 5 1/2 foot I use a No.5. Longer than that I use a 7. But to be honest... since I got the inca, I don't edge joint a whole lot by hand.
    "When we build, let us think that we build forever." - Ruskin

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Brentwood & Altamont, TN
    Posts
    2,334
    I'm like Don but, I will often use my Festool At55e guided circular saw system for really bad boards. Works much faster than a jointer and for a glue joint produces a good surface. For less complicated boards I use an old Stanly #5 Jack like Ian's suggestion.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Memphis
    Posts
    66
    i really apprecitate everyones help! I will probably never be planing boards over 5 foot long. theres a whole lot more choices in the jack plane category than the jointer plane, does anyone have any suggestions for a jack plane under $100? I have a thickness planer so all i'll be using this for is the edges. i thank you all so much

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Shoreline, CT
    Posts
    2,923
    You should be looking at older Stanley Bailey model planes--much better than current production Stanley or any others in that price range. The only new planes worth considering cost much more--they won't work much better than a well tuned pre-WWII Bailey, but they will come ready to use, while you will likely need to invest some time tuning up the older planes. Both Lee Valley and Lie-Nielsen make excellent planes, but not close to the $50 price point.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Anchorage, AK
    Posts
    507
    Mark,

    I have a couple of pre war Stanley's. I really enjoy using vintage tools. I am really new to the world of vintage stanley planes, but it is my understanding that if you want a pre war plane avoid anything with a kidney shaped hole in the lever cap or with raised stanley lettering on a red background on the lever cap.

    There are lots of folks on the web who sell good users. Some will even send you plane to check out. If you want to buy it you send them a check or you send the plane back. Cant beat that deal in my book. PM me if you would like a recomendation on where to buy.

    Jonathan

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