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Thread: Pocket doors

  1. #1

    Pocket doors

    A two part question.

    Last month our basement got flooded, so with help from home owners insurance it is getting re-done.

    I want to install a pocket door. I am going to use Johnson Hardware. I couldn't wait to order a custom one, I need the door about 46 inches wide and taller than the 80" standard. So I bought 2 3'0" hardware sets and plan to cut one down to get the correct track length.

    Has anyone worked with these kits? Any "gotchas" I need to look out for?

    Part II of my questions.

    I am going to make the door. Just a hollow core, 1 3/8 thickness, it will be painted

    What would be the best wood for the core grid? Poplar? What about the skin? 1/8" 1/4" what material?

    Thanks for the help
    John
    Hello, My name is John and I am a toolaholic

  2. #2
    John,
    I can't help you with the first question but if it were me I', probubly make a torsion box for the core out of 1/4 BB then I'd skin it with 1/8" ply but that just me.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Don Baer
    John,
    I can't help you with the first question but if it were me I', probubly make a torsion box for the core out of 1/4 BB then I'd skin it with 1/8" ply but that just me.
    so if my math is right, the core would be 5/8"? Then by the time you add 2 1/8" skins over 2 1/4" BB ply my door thickness would be the required 1 3/8" I like that approach.

    John
    Hello, My name is John and I am a toolaholic

  4. #4
    Hi John,

    I once worked for a door mfg co in VA. All our hollow cores had corregated cardboard as the filler. Looked like seperators in an egg crate or what you might use to pack glasses in for a move. Skins varied, but I don't remember any thicker than 1/4" - most were less. I belive most commercially available hollow cores are made this way.

    To make a long story short, don't waste a lot of time making something special - it's not needed.

    Rennie
    I have been black and blue in some spot, somewhere, almost all my life from too intimate contacts with my own furniture. - Frank Lloyd Wright

    I have been black and blue and bloody in some spot, somewhere, almost all my life from too intimate contacts while building my own furniture. - Rennie Heuer

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Waterford, MI
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Gregory
    so if my math is right, the core would be 5/8"? Then by the time you add 2 1/8" skins over 2 1/4" BB ply my door thickness would be the required 1 3/8" I like that approach.

    John
    That only adds up to 3/4" which would leave hollow areas of 1/2" in the cells of the torsion box for what I think you're picturing. I think for what Don had in mind the BB ply strips for the torsion box would have to be cut 1-1/8" wide to get out to the 1-3/8 thickness. You could fill the cells of the torsion box with cardboard, styrofoam or whatever...
    Use the fence Luke

  6. #6
    Doug has it right, I don't think it would be necessary to fill the cells unless you wanted it insulated. The torsion box would provide the rigidity (if thats a word) yet keep the door light.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Wats BB?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    cheasapeake, va
    Posts
    97
    pocket door installation is pretty straight forward. the only tip i can give you is to hold off of installing the casing until after you have cut the door to the height of the finished floor. when i installed my first pocket door i forgot to leave off the head casing only to later rip it off when the door needed to be removed and cut down. i think most kits require the door to have all final adjustments made prior to installing the head casing. also, don't forget to glue (not nail) the baseboard on the wall side of the pocket door (luckily i haven't nailed my door open or shut). good luck.

    jud

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Fusco
    Wats BB?
    Sorry Frank, Baltic Birch. I like to use it for stuff like this.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Near saw dust
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    980
    the head and pocket side casings on a pocket door are not supposed to be nailed to the jambs on one side (the side where the little retainer hooks on the top of the door are). I usually install the jambs on that side with screws so if the house settles and the door needs adjustment you can sand the paint and find the filler and remove the screws and jambs without disturbing the casings/paint and wallpaper or tile or whatever else the casing is involved with.

    Most HC doors are made with a door skin that cant be more than 3/16" which is IMHO too thin.

    I also always like a nice piece of Microllam to screw the track to. Never shrinks like lumber and really holds screws.
    Strive for perfection...Settle for completion

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Mountain Home, Arkansas
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    1,135
    Quote Originally Posted by Don Baer
    Sorry Frank, Baltic Birch. I like to use it for stuff like this.
    Tanks, I dunna speaka da acronymeese tu gud.

  12. #12
    Thanks for all of the tips. I am going to attempt it this weekend. I will try to give you an update Monday or Tuesday

    John
    Hello, My name is John and I am a toolaholic

  13. #13
    From my experience, there are two types of pocket door hardware purchasers. Those that bought Johnson and those who wished they had bought Johnson the first time. Really a good system. Just remember to mark location of holes in metal up rights.

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