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Thread: Kenyon Sash saw

  1. Kenyon Sash saw

    Here's what Benjamin Seaton listed on his inventory of tools as a sash saw. A common designation for what we would simply term a tenon saw. Trust me, the one he termed a tenon saw was much larger...

    14" in blade length, about 2 3/4" of usable depth at the toe and rising towards the heel of the saw. 13 ppi rip. Brass is about 7/8" by 1/4" and in this case is slotted vs. folded as would be traditional. Brass blots and split nuts. Saw plate is .025" thick. Handle is German Beech.

    Sash saws, much like our common tenon saw, came in varying sizes and were actually used on a wide variety of work, not just window sashs. As Benjamin Seaton was a trained joiner [furniture maker] it may well have been purchased as an intermediate tenon saw, placing it between the carcass [rip] saw having an 11" blade length and the large tenon saw having a 19" blade length.

    Take care, Mike





    Well, back to work...

  2. #2
    Suweet! Nice work, Mike.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Northern Virginia
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    Another wow. Very nice, 13 ppi rip, would be very handy. Get thee behind me...

    Back to my Tyzack tenon saw, at least I won't feel bad if I muck up the teeth.

    Maurice

  4. #4
    Really lovely work, Mike. I've always wanted to ask: where is the information published about the Seaton tool inventory? Are there photos somewhere?
    -Andy

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Pretty Pretty Pretty!
    Chuck

    When all else fails increase hammer size!
    "You can know what other people know. You can do what other people can do."-Dave Gingery

  6. #6
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    Mike that's a real sweet saw. I do have a question though about the handle. I cut out a handle from a sketch you did on your website and didn't sand the pointy parts of the top. My wife insists that all the pointy and sharp corners should be sanded smooth. Who is right? Come on now, you know the answer and she can take if she's wrong, I think.
    Making new friends on SMC each and every day

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,969
    As always, your attention to detail on your saws is incredible. They are truly works of art, in addition to being great tools!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. Thank you all for the kind words!

    Let's see if I can avoid overlooking the questions...

    Andrew, most of the info is in the book written by Mark and Jane Rees, The Tool Chest of Benjamin Seaton, ISBN 0947673075. Out of print, but copies do come available once in a while via fleaBay and or booksellers in Britain.

    The book has great pictures and text about the tools that were in the chest. A brief account of the chest itself was in the last Fine Tool Journal. That was an article about the chest, and in particular the saws, as well as about me that Chris Schwarz wrote. I have a PDF of the article I have permission to use on the web site but I haven't gotten around to getting the web site updated for a while. And I would be remiss to mention the FTJ is a good journal to subscribe to anyway...

    For the period, there are several good books. I can look them up for the ISBNs if interested.

    Jim Dunn, pointy part...meaning the edges? Or the triangular bead between the beak [the curve which forms the circular cut out at the upper front of the handle] and the upper horn? If edges, I relieve them with a swipe of 360 grit as the last step. A light swipe or two.

    If the triangular bead, well the triangular ones are suppose to be pointy and crisp. And if it is the top-front of the beak, that too should be crisp. But like I mentioned, all the "crisp" edges get the light swipe, mainly to protect them from chipping if bumped.

    Take care, Mike

  9. #9
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    It's the pointy beak area between the horn? and where your finger would go. Almost a pyramid shape thingy. In this saw it's rounded.
    Making new friends on SMC each and every day

  10. Yep, some are basically the upper portion of a triangle and some are round, still others don't have the "bead" at all. Some with the triangular bead have steep sides, some are very relaxed, almost squat. Like this one:



    Not a rounded bead, not a sharp one either. This one is a little sharper, though the picture is a bit blurry:



    Well, need to go cut off a vase bottom for the Mrs.

    Take care, Mike

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    The more I see of your work,

    the more anxious I am for my saws to be done.

  12. #12
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    Sep 2004
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    Mike the handle on the bottom saw is pretty much like I cut out. Mainly just to see if I could. I'll probably use it as a push handle for a fixture of some kind. I like the handles on those saws of your's more than the metal parts. But it's all nice work, really nice work.
    Making new friends on SMC each and every day

  13. #13
    Mike,
    Fabulous work, my friend...
    roy
    roy griggs
    roygriggs@valornet.com

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
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    You've got to stop this Mike!

    .... the keyboard is all wet and I am also in danger of going blind.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  15. Thanks Roy and Derek,

    Tis a lot of fun, my friends.

    Take care, Mike

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