Block Plane recommendation

[Dan Larson]

Scott,

One nice feature of the LV low-angle block to consider is the ability to outfit it with a ball tail & knob.
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Combined with a 38 or 50 degree bevel on the blade, and you've got yourself a small smoother.

I've used both the LN and the LV low-angle blocks extensively, and I like both of them equally but for different reasons... you can't go wrong with either!

Dan

[Richard Niemiec]

Mike, I hear ya. But I'm reacting to the circumstances of the original post, e.g., someone who is a self-characterized Normite hobbyist who wants some block planes for "cleanup" of joints, etc. We're not talking about a neander who dimensions his/her stock by hand and is dealing with wild grain or figured wood; there I agree that spending serious money for a low angle smoother, jack, etc. would make sense because such a person would be looking for performance in such situations, and although not an expert, something tells me there simply aren't a lot of "vintage" planes like this out there, I'm pretty sure Stanley didn't make any. That being said, I agree with you about discretionary spending. America's a great country - we are all free to spend our money to pursue happiness - I guess that accounts for why some folks buy a Cadillac EXT for $60k so they can say they drive a pickup, and I drive a 2WD Tundra. Different strokes.....

BTW, I didn't know the LN rabbet block plane was derived from a sargent original design, and I agree there are not likely many of them in circulation. The reason I bought it is that it does double duty, at least for me, as a shoulder plane.

[Tony Zaffuto]

With regards to Dan Larson's endorsement of the LV low angle block, I would go a step further and purchase the chamfering attachment. I had LV make up one of their planes for me last year without the circular indentations (hated the looks!) and bought it with the ball & tail, along with the chamfering attachment. Works beautifully! I can plane a better looking chamfer far quicker than most can set up an electric router, plus the planed chamfer does not have the burns or other router marks. since I bought the plane, that is all it does.

Now, I'm a bit of a block plane junkie (actually all types of hand tools) and have: 3 Stanley 60-1/2, 1 LN 60-1/2, 1 LN 60-1/2R, 2 Stanley 65, 3 Stanley 9-1/2, LN 102, plus at least another half dozen or so that don't come to mind.

What I use most everyday is 75 year old + Stanley 60-1/2 (w/Hock blade)and the LN 102. The LV is used only for chamfers. If I were on a tight budget, buying used, I would go for a Stanley 60-1/2 (USA model, painted black) and eventually upgrade the blade. If I were buying new, it would be the LN 102.

[James Owen]

I am mainly a "Normite" type/hobbyist woodworker.
Have the usual assortment of power tools (stationary/handheld) to sqaure up my stock, create joints, etc. from Delta, Jet, Dewalt
Currently use the "scary sharp plate glass method for sharpening my Marples chisels.

Am considering a one of the following 3 hand planes for cleanup work, etc:
Lee Valley Low Angle block plane $119
Lie Nielsen 140 Skew Block Plane $175
Lie Nielsen 60 1/2 Low Angle adustable mouth block plane $150.00

Would appreciate any recommendations.

Scott,

Of the three you list, I'd recommend the LN #60-1/2; it is an excellent plane (the others are, too!).

A couple of folks have mentioned using the LN #9-1/2 -- also a very fine plane -- for joinery trimming/final fitting. I can't say that I disagree with the basic idea, although, I find that better results are forthcoming using a standard angle plane when used on a shooting board. I regularly use a LN #5-1/2, an old Union #6, and a couple of other bench planes to trim end grain on my shooting board; works like a charm. The "secret" here is to have a SHARP iron; it's sharp enough when it will peel shavings off of pine end grain.....

Good luck and have fun selecting your new plane: you can't go wrong with any of them.

James

[Aled Dafis]

I agree with most of the above posts that the 3 planes are all excellent planes.

My preference would be the LN 60 1/2 as it feels so damned good in the hand - I tried both the LV and LN, and the LN just felt like it grew there.

David mentioned that the 9 1/2 gives a better surface fininsh, so why not buy a second blade for the 60 1/2 and hone it at a higher angle for smoothing - that's why so many of us have bought into the LV Bevel Up range (the use of "us" in that last sentence was a stealth gloat by the way). That way you will have the comfort benefits of the low angle plane combined with the smoothing performance of the 9 1/2 i.e the best of both worlds and a very handsome plane to boot.

Regards
Aled

[Ian Smith]

I have done what Aled suggests.

I have a LN 60-1/2 for which I have 2 blades, one with a 25 degree bevel and one with a 40 degree bevel. With the 40 degree bevel blade installed, the plane functions as a small smoother.