Originally Posted by
jeremy levine
Aslo as for "some sort of tung oil" why not use a tung oil based product like Waterlox
Waterlox does indeed start out with tung oil in it's mixture prior to "cooking"...but there is no "identifiable" tung oil left once the varnish is created. (Same goes for BLO or soya oil based products...) It's more affective of color than anything else. I find that Waterlox has a unique color due to the effects of the tung and the phenolic resins in its formulation. I haven't used it on cherry like the OP has, but have used it on walnut without the usual BLO application. It didn't work for me...more bland for some reason. But that's personal preference.
You'll be hard pressed to tell the difference between tung oil (expensive and long curing time) and BLO (cheap and shorter cure time) when used as a first step under other finishes. (Tung by itself and built up with many applications can be a very nice finish) The first cost of an oil-based varnish will give you some of the benefits of pure oil, but with less penetration and no chance to "improve" the effect once the surface is sealed with the cure of the varnish. That said, there was an article not long ago (I don't recall in what publication) that showed going right to an oil based varnish will still give a very nice shimmer. But with many of us moving to water borne products, that initial application of oil (and often a barrier of de-waxed shellac) brings out a lot of life that might be missed otherwise.
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...