auger bits

[David Martino]

Looking for auger bits for a stanley hand brace, and new ones are expensive ($10-20 a bit and up). I see some used/vintage on ebay and wondered about the quality of different brands, what to look for in terms of usable bits, etc. Many come in a 3-level boxed set, some look pretty rusty.

Saw a set of "Jennings pattern bits made by Swan"... anybody know those?

Or a more reasonably priced source for new? I'm not anxious to develop my skills as a drill bit refurbisher...

Thanks-

[Mike Wenzloff]

James Swan made some of the very best of edge tools, bits included.

If they are vintage bits, even the Swan's, expect you will need to learn to sharpen them.

The Cilco new ones are very good bits. Obviously they come ready to go for years of use. There are also other patterns of bits, depending on what you are using the bits for. Included are spoon and nose bits and even Forstner bits.

As for rust, a brass wire wheel on a grinder works well. A soak in citric acid first and they will come very clean.

Try to see what the ends of the bits look like when buying vintage. If there is time on the auction, email the seller asking to have pictures of the business end if they don't initially show them.

Take care, Mike

[Ganthan Rhodes]

Here's some good info on cleaning a brace and bits.

http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/bracecleaning.html

[George Sanders]

I have several and the double helix are the better ones. Use fine thread for hard woods and coarse thread for soft. I think Greenlee and Russel Jennings are some of the better ones if buying used. I have pieced together a set of single helix coarse thread and I'm working on a double fine thread set. I plan to make boxes for them. As for cleaning rusty tools electrolysis works wonders.

[David Martino]

Thanks all for the good info. Haven't done the ebay/used tool route before but there seem to be some bargains. (This could be the start of trouble.)

I've seen the Jennings pattern bits have 2 cutting spurs, also seen 1-spur (2 seems like it would be easier to start ?) - but what's single and double helix?

Also not sure if some are better for hardwoods versus softwoods (saw mention somewhere of "Scottish" pattern bits???). Just curious, I'll be using mine for a mix of things.

Never heard of Cilco - any suggestions where to find them?

[Mike Wenzloff]

Cilco Tooling is the company who makes Clifton planes and other tools. Tools for Working Wood carries the auger bits.

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/M...tegory_Code=TD

Take care, Mike

[Ian Gillis]

Here's a photo of some different types of bits I use in my brace.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/48371047@N00/233961983/

From left to right: gimlet style, center bit (this might be your Scottish pattern), Irwin style (single helix) and Jennings pattern (double helix)

Hope this helps

Ian G

[Mike Wenzloff]

Here's a brief introduction to several type of boring tools:
http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/inTheSho..._Bitstocks.asp

This site of Wiktor's is a great site for information.

Mike

[David Martino]

Thanks - more new sites to bookmark! You could spend a lot of money and read a lot of books and not find what I learned in the answers to a simple question. Thanks to all for taking the time to reply.

[Frank Fusco]

Most antique/junk/flea market shops have boxes full of old bits laying around. That's where I got all mine. Usually very inexpensive. As said, a wire brush will clean up enough to make usable. A diamond stone will sharpen nicely in short time. I use the Ez-Lap that is about the size of a tongue depressor. Be careful, some old augers are not very stout steel and can be easily bent.

[Hank Knight]

David,

The lead screw on an auger bit determines the "bite" the bit takes in the wood. Coarse threads on a lead screw pull the bit into the wood quickly; the result is a large bite. Coarse lead screws work better on soft wood. Fine lead screws advance the bit more slowly for smaller bite and are better for hardwood.

Hank